What brand of oil does everyone use? Motorcraft or nothin?

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Tomster

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Motorcraft here. I have countless oil analysis reports after track events revealing that the oil still had more life left in it. Not only does the motorcraft oil meet warranty, but also seems to exceed performance specifications.

This oil debate..... well, all it does is start a bunch of crap. Use what you want.

 

Firsttexan

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Hook line and sinker.

I learned this back on the Corvette Forum.

When someone asks the "oil" question, just answer one word "Amsoil".

Then watch em dance!

:facepalm:
 

Tomster

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Hook line and sinker.

I learned this back on the Corvette Forum.

When someone asks the "oil" question, just answer one word "Amsoil".

Then watch em dance!

:facepalm:
Yep. Just another oil debate.
 

m3incorp

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Us supercharged guys and gals use the 5w50 also :)

You can still change the heading from "everyone" to "GT500 guys". It will swerve the thread in the direction you want. :like:
 

Angrey

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Don’t believe everything you read on the internet…..
Since decades, no cars have end up in a junkyard because of engine failure due to poor lubrication
Therefore Amsoil do not offer any practical advantages to another oil
What is the point of using a oil that is 20% “better” if a “regular” oil is in fact so good that there is no engine failure due to poor lubrication
Amsoil is like snake oil, overpriced and offer no real life benefits
Furthermore their marketing techniques are based on a quasi pyramidal scheme
For most this is probably closest to the truth. Unless you're punishing the motor with multiple hours of banging from 3k-8k or countless WOT trips at elevated hp at the drag strip or driving it 250k miles, the appropriate weight oil from virtually any of the well knowns will probably be the same.

My recommendations are:

If you're worried about warranty, use whatever blend Ford recommends.

If you're not worried about warranty but still have catalytic converters, use whatever run of the mill brand in the appropriate weight.

If you're punishing the car, use something with high HTHS and high levels of ZDDP and Moly. As a consolation concern, try to pick something with good NOACK.

There's a reason offerings from Driven (MPAO base stock), Redline/Motul (Esther based) are more expensive, cause they have better (and higher levels of desirable additives, that are great for the motor but bad for catalytic converters) and have better resistance to shear and cutting.

At the end of the day, the two biggest threats to motor components are startup, where friction additives like ZDDP are crucial, especially for things like cam followers, etc, and secondly, the lubricant's ability to resist thinning and cutting, one of the best measures being HTHS. The lubricant's ability not to vapor off is also a lesser concern.

At the end of the day if you use a quality filter and change often, it won't make a difference for most people as long as it starts with the proper weight that your bearings have been designed to see adequate film and penetration.

The other thing I've noticed is that everyone tries to discuss oil without fully understanding that OEMs and non racing oil manufacturers try to provide product that works across a wide range.

The concerns for someone who starts the car in -10F are different than those that never see colder than 60F.
 

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I only plan to use the OEM spec Motorcraft oil and filter but I completely agree that aside from hard use at either track, Wally World oil is more than good enough as are comparable filters as Don mentioned with K&N.

The dividing line as another member stated is the warranty. Yes, the odds are certainly much greater that nothing will ever occur but, if it did, I'd rather have it documented that I used the recommended products. Then it becomes a game for attorneys and FOMOCO has plenty of soldiers, I don't.
 
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I only plan to use the OEM spec Motorcraft oil and filter but I completely agree that aside from hard use at either track, Wally World oil is more than good enough as are comparable filters as Don mentioned with K&N.

The dividing line as another member stated is the warranty. Yes, the odds are certainly much greater that nothing will ever occur but, if it did, I'd rather have it documented that I used the recommended products. Then it becomes a game for attorneys and FOMOCO has plenty of soldiers, I don't.
Yep, this is how I'm leaning myself as well.
 

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Motorcraft.
 

Classic Lover

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It’s way more important to change it regularly than to use some brand or another. That being said I use Schaeffers oil and it’s honestly about the best out there.

7D885581-3526-4BE6-BF97-F84FF65C46E5.jpeg
 

Epiphany

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I like to disassemble things.
It’s way more important to change it regularly than to use some brand or another.
Frequency is indeed the most important aspect, I agree.
 

Saratoga87

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My brother in law had a `97 Chrysler minivan. Owned it 22 years and drove it 237K miles. He changed the motor oil every 2K miles religiously. The oil he used was the cheapest oil Walmart sells which is nothing more than recycled used motor oil.
Now granted this was just his daily driver, my point is, like Epiphany says, not so much the oil but the frequency of the oil changes.
And by the way, that V6, never had so much as a valve cover off of it in that 22 years.
 

Tomster

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My brother in law had a `97 Chrysler minivan. Owned it 22 years and drove it 237K miles. He changed the motor oil every 2K miles religiously. The oil he used was the cheapest oil Walmart sells which is nothing more than recycled used motor oil.
Now granted this was just his daily driver, my point is, like Epiphany says, not so much the oil but the frequency of the oil changes.
And by the way, that V6, never had so much as a valve cover off of it in that 22 years.
This is not a 97 Chrysler minivan.
 

SL8888

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Only oil that has a 0 chance of denying warranty coverage…
I'm on the "Wild" side, first oil change in my GT 350 was at 600 miles. 10 quarts of "Driven FR50"(5W-50) and never looked back. 9600 miles and 4 track days. I have changed oil
5 times total.... :wink:
 
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