What brand of oil does everyone use? Motorcraft or nothin?

[Tomster]

TBH that doesnt look like a super good report especially considering the low mileage on the oil. The viscosity difference between the first and 2nd test is pretty significant if thats actually the same oil. The copper is pretty high in both.. My amsoil maintained significant higher velocity with more mileage and after I added 300 hp to my car and drove it hard for 2000 miles..

The first sample is break in oil. The second is 1000 miles of track use.

You cannot compare the two. Excuse me? What is your idea of hard driving? Please be specific. Based on what you wrote, it looked like some pulls on the street.

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[Schwerin]

I mean I'm not reading 10 pages of back and forth, but long as you're using a good brand, the proper weight, and changing/checking when you should. Who really cares what brand it is?

I've never seen a single post saying a car died to running X brand. Only that they underfilled, or ran it too long, or didn't check it and burned off too much till they had an issue.

No one will ever know if their engine finally gave out at 150K due to Valvoline or that it would have lasted to 175K if they ran a brand that cost 2x as much.

I know people that run crap brands and still have 200+K on their Honda, and I know people that use AMSoil/Mobile1 and have had their Engines rebuilt a few times. with barely 150K on the body of their car.


To sum it up... who fucking cares? Buy what brand you're comfortable with, maintain it right, and go about your day.

 

[Tomster]

I mean I'm not reading 10 pages of back and forth, but long as you're using a good brand, the proper weight, and changing/checking when you should. Who really cares what brand it is?

I've never seen a single post saying a car died to running X brand. Only that they underfilled, or ran it too long, or didn't check it and burned off too much till they had an issue.

No one will ever know if their engine finally gave out at 150K due to Valvoline or that it would have lasted to 175K if they ran a brand that cost 2x as much.

I know people that run crap brands and still have 200+K on their Honda, and I know people that use AMSoil/Mobile1 and have had their Engines rebuilt a few times. with barely 150K on the body of their car.


To sum it up... who fucking cares? Buy what brand you're comfortable with, maintain it right, and go about your day.

Yep, and if your engine requires a certain oil based upon a required spec, stay within that spec for warranty purposes. If you don't care about that, then use whatever you want.

 

[Angrey]

TBH that doesnt look like a super good report especially considering the low mileage on the oil. The viscosity difference between the first and 2nd test is pretty significant if thats actually the same oil. The copper is pretty high in both.. My amsoil maintained significant higher velocity with more mileage and after I added 300 hp to my car and drove it hard for 2000 miles..

Let's not be overly dramatic. Yes, yours at 2,000 has SLIGHTLY (not significantly) better viscosity. Copper would be high(er) in a new/break in period and the lab communicated as much (and confirmed the levels were dropping).

Your OA while better at 2,000 (without knowing if you put the same beating on your oil as he did on his, he indicated hard track use). More concerningly, however is the drastic drop between your 2k report and the previous 3k report. As you can see from both the 3k report and the 5k report, the oil is shot. It's little more than baby oil at that point. It's basically 30w oil, which is significantly departed away from the initial thickness (and corresponding coverage) of brand new 5w-50 weight.

Having too thick of oil is bad, as it can not penetrate tolerances sufficiently to provide lubrication. However, having too thin is also bad if it can't maintain proper film on the bearings.

We're now getting down to brass tacks so to speak.

One of the most ignored aspects of oil selection is despite what it says on the bottle, what does it "settle" into and what does it ultimately end up at over a typical change duration?

Any manufacturer can fake the funk with a bunch of gimmicks and additives to have a super hero when it's brand new. But if it sheers to pam cooking spray halfway in between oil changes, it's not exactly useful or preferred.

The real question that needs answering is...what is the viscosity in cSt at 100 (or higher) that the bearing tolerances prefer as optimal lubrication values?

If Ford says a 40 weight is optimal, then we should be wary of flogging the car the first few hundred miles of an oil change (as proper penetration would be a concern). If Ford says the bearings were designed for 5w-50 viscosities then the concern would be that after a few hundred miles, the oil isn't able to film properly (or as optimally).

Obviously this isn't a pinpoint affair. The optimal and acceptable levels are all some band of upper and lower values. In any case, it's clear that PAO based oils have significant changes in their viscosity.

Here's an unpopular opinion/statement. From what I've seen and read, both 5w-50 Motrocraft and Amsoil will cut very similar to both your OA's whether the car is tracked or not. Babying the oil doesn't seem to protect it's viscosity/thickness all that much.

 

[Andy13186]

More concerningly, however is the drastic drop between your 2k report and the previous 3k report. As you can see from both the 3k report and the 5k report, the oil is shot. It's little more than baby oil at that point. It's basically 30w oil, which is significantly departed away from the initial thickness (and corresponding coverage) of brand new 5w-50 weight.

That was 5w30 amsoil, those were reports from when I was naturally aspirated. The 5w50 report is after I put a whipple on my car and pumped it up to 770 rwhp. Full e85 at all times for these reports too. Probably the equivalent of atleast 250+ 1/4 mile passes of WOT on each interval too.

 

[OldPhart]

Hi - I must be bored to keep reading more about oils. Well I am, because my Bullitt is in hibernation until spring and it's freezing here. I started buying cars in the '60s including a couple of muscle cars (GTOs). Back then and henceforth I have used any approved brand and changed oil and filter every 5000 miles faithfully. For me that milage made it easy to remember when the car was due for an oil change (5, 10, 15, etc.). I usually buy new and put around a 100 to 125,000 miles and 10 yrs on my vehicles. I've been doing that same thing ever since and 20 or so cars and trucks later I have never (knock on wood) had an engine problem or added more than a qt between changes. I used to be harder on cars than I am now at age 80. Back in the day I did the occasional street light racing but have never been to a drag strip as a participant, so I probably fall in the category of average driver. Probably more important now is that the full 10 qts get added when the oil gets changed.... Bruce

 

[luc]

I mean I'm not reading 10 pages of back and forth, but long as you're using a good brand, the proper weight, and changing/checking when you should. Who really cares what brand it is?

I've never seen a single post saying a car died to running X brand. Only that they underfilled, or ran it too long, or didn't check it and burned off too much till they had an issue.

No one will ever know if their engine finally gave out at 150K due to Valvoline or that it would have lasted to 175K if they ran a brand that cost 2x as much.

I know people that run crap brands and still have 200+K on their Honda, and I know people that use AMSoil/Mobile1 and have had their Engines rebuilt a few times. with barely 150K on the body of their car.


To sum it up... who fucking cares? Buy what brand you're comfortable with, maintain it right, and go about your day.

Amsoil have some cult like followers
Why?
Not sure but like for any cult, logic and reason are thrown out of the window and the words ( advertising in this case) of the leader are THE truth…

 

[Andy13186]

Amsoil have some cult like followers
Why?
Not sure but like for any cult, logic and reason are thrown out of the window and the words ( advertising in this case) of the leader are THE truth…

There are unbiased tests comparing amsoil to like 20 other types of high end oils and amsoil came out #1

 

[Angrey]

Amsoil have some cult like followers
Why?
Not sure but like for any cult, logic and reason are thrown out of the window and the words ( advertising in this case) of the leader are THE truth…

Their sales and distribution model is different than almost any other oil. They have "representatives" (you can usually spot them in most online oil threads/discussions). They don't spend a great deal on typical marketing or advertising, they leave it up to their reps to do word of mouth and discussion type sales/marketing.

There are unbiased tests comparing amsoil to like 20 other types of high end oils and amsoil came out #1

I've seen what you are quoting and it wasn't "unbiased" they omitted the parts that were inconvenient.

You can surf hundreds of OA reports online and you'll arrive at the conclusion that amsoil is no better or worse than many of the other usual suspects.

I used to have a coach who would say "you can't make chicken salad out of chicken shit." They all start off as PAO stock and therefore are limited/constrained to PAO characteristics. The differences being their additive packages and how they arrive at the advertised specs. Throw in their desire to meet Ford's "C" spec requirement (which limits phosphorus content from ZDDP) and you end up with virtually the same product (which is what one would expect when providing increasingly narrow characteristics and requirements).

If the oils all start off with basically the same or very similar base stock and you start to limit other components, it's not shock worthy that they'd all end up basically in the same performance range. Amsoil didn't reinvent organic and inorganic chemistry.

The only way you find yourself disparately outside of those grouped performers is if you A) change up the additives and or content (violating some of the certificates) or B) start off with a different base stock.

Amsoil 5w50 sheers to a 40 weight fairly quickly , JUST like the others do. There's plenty of OA online to corral you to that inescapable conclusion and again, it's what we'd expect from adding so many limits, constraints and requirements. In fact it would be concerning if somehow Amsoil was significantly different than the others.

If you want to build an item and you specify a bunch of things, strength, yield points, hardness, wear rating, corrosiveresistance, limits on carbon content, etc. And all the competition starts off with O2 tool steel, it wouldn't be shocking if all of them ended up very close to each other. In fact, it would be curious if any of them stood out significantly.

The ONLY way you'd expect and accept a huge outlier is if they START with a different base material.

You can't have it both ways. You can't meet very specific requirements (certification) AND do it economically AND stand way out. The only way that's going to be feasible is if you drop one or more of the limitations, like start off a different base spec (ditching the economical PAO base stock) and saying to hell with certificates, just like the race/boutique brands choose to do.

 

[luc]

There are unbiased tests comparing amsoil to like 20 other types of high end oils and amsoil came out #1

That has always been my point about the “scam”
Since any reputable oil brands are good enough that no engine anymore fails due to bad lubrication because of the oil…. Amsoil. Do not offer any meaningful advantage
Being number 1 or number 10 don’t make any difference for the engine life

 

[Schwerin]

There are unbiased tests comparing amsoil to like 20 other types of high end oils and amsoil came out #1

Who cares if at the end of the day #20 on the list is still much more protection then you'll ever need if you're doing proper Maintenace? IMO at that point you're just wasting money for the sake of bragging rights.

 

[Calif-GT500]

Gotta love a thread in a car forum about oil brands! Right up there with the guys in the Gun forums arguing over hand loads vs factory ammo.

I've owned 3 mustangs and only ran/run Motorcraft in all 3. I think what's far more important is the recommend viscosity and oil change frequency, then which brand. (my opinion)

The engineers at Ford recommend Motorcraft so I run that. For you guys that track every weekend maybe a different oil is warranted, but for the vast majority of us it will not make a difference in car performance or engine life. Let's face it, none of these cars will every see 100K miles in our ownership.

These threads always end the same. Charts and graphs, and links to videos etc, but in the end no one EVER convinces anyone to switch or change opinions. There are guys that will spend BIG dollars on oil, yet go to Costco for gas and start a thread "Can I run Mid-Grade instead of premium" lol

We are a stubborn group! lol

 

[IPOGT]

Gotta love a thread in a car forum about oil brands! Right up there with the guys in the Gun forums arguing over hand loads vs factory ammo.

I've owned 3 mustangs and only ran/run Motorcraft in all 3. I think what's far more important is the recommend viscosity and oil change frequency, then which brand. (my opinion)

The engineers at Ford recommend Motorcraft so I run that. For you guys that track every weekend maybe a different oil is warranted, but for the vast majority of us it will not make a difference in car performance or engine life. Let's face it, none of these cars will every see 100K miles in our ownership.

These threads always end the same. Charts and graphs, and links to videos etc, but in the end no one EVER convinces anyone to switch or change opinions. There are guys that will spend BIG dollars on oil, yet go to Costco for gas and start a thread "Can I run Mid-Grade instead of premium" lol

We are a stubborn group! lol

I will say though, that a dose of Ceratec does seem to have value based on most of the real uses here on M6G.

 

[Reap]

And you come up with something like that. Let me guess..... its a 97 Chrysler minivan.

Geesh

I guess your opinion is the only one that counts-to you.

 

[DopamineQuest]

I will say though, that a dose of Ceratec does seem to have value based on most of the real uses here on M6G.

Ceratec absolutely muted my coyotes tic. Used it every oil change cause that noise was so frustrating and embarrassing tbh.

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