matthewr87
Well-Known Member
If I had to guess I would say military guys who shipped their cars over while stationed in Germany or elsewhere in Europe.
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Meateater
Active Member
Reading the stories about the problems folks have with new car purchases reinforces my preference for cars with some miles on them. Seems most fails occur in the first 5K miles.
Sorry to read of your troubles. That sucks. But when its fixed and you get it on the track, you'll forget (kinda) of the butt pain. Shake it out, get Ford to fix the 'assembly line' problems, then enjoy a really good race car.
Sorry to read of your troubles. That sucks. But when its fixed and you get it on the track, you'll forget (kinda) of the butt pain. Shake it out, get Ford to fix the 'assembly line' problems, then enjoy a really good race car.
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- #138
Last summer a guy on Bringatrailer sold a 1960's GT350 that blew its original engine on the way home from the dealer. It had a factory replacement and it still sold for a fortune.
Funny thing, it didn't have a stack of letters to various Ford, Shelby and dealer managers cursing them for making one single engine wrong or a pile of "Poor Pitiful me" letters about how he cannot possibly race the car because without its factory engine or the car no longer had resale value.
I wonder where that stuff was???? You manage a "fleet of 40K cars". Are you the Thrifty Car Rental manager for Central Florida? Congrats, not sure how that makes you an expert on high performance cars but okay.
It broke, it happens and they are trying hard to fix it. Ask for six years and 100K miles on the replacement engine and get on with life. So are you mothballing the car until your 70th birthday for resale, adding twin turbos or just driving it? Which lie is true? You have covered every avenue of ownership in this stupid thread so far.
Get a grip, get it fixed, properly break-in the engine for 1,000 miles, get an oil change and then warm it up and get to 8,250 and report back.
Funny thing, it didn't have a stack of letters to various Ford, Shelby and dealer managers cursing them for making one single engine wrong or a pile of "Poor Pitiful me" letters about how he cannot possibly race the car because without its factory engine or the car no longer had resale value.
I wonder where that stuff was???? You manage a "fleet of 40K cars". Are you the Thrifty Car Rental manager for Central Florida? Congrats, not sure how that makes you an expert on high performance cars but okay.
It broke, it happens and they are trying hard to fix it. Ask for six years and 100K miles on the replacement engine and get on with life. So are you mothballing the car until your 70th birthday for resale, adding twin turbos or just driving it? Which lie is true? You have covered every avenue of ownership in this stupid thread so far.
Get a grip, get it fixed, properly break-in the engine for 1,000 miles, get an oil change and then warm it up and get to 8,250 and report back.
mk1spyder
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #140
BREAKING-IN Your vehicle requires a break-in period. Drive your new vehicle at least 100 mi (160 km) before performing extended wide open throttle maneuvers and at least 1,000 mi (1,600 km) before performance or competition conditions. Note: Vary your speed frequently in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in.
So this is actually exactly what I did, up to about 120 miles I just did lower RPM 4th 5th gear pulls not going past 5k to seat the rings, didnt get on it till after and it blew at 130 miles. A timing chain system has very little to do with break in. Break in is more related to the bearings, rings, sleeves, and gaskets.
Are you a Ford technician or Master ASE certified tech?
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Rusherific
Well-Known Member
Yes it's called the bathtub curve. Manufacturing defects are going to appear very early on as problems, then there are few problems until parts start to wear out later on. That's what warranties are for!
K4fxd
Well-Known Member
Break in is a myth. All modern engines are run in at the factory.
If it makes you feel good take it easy for 1000 miles, but the rings are already seated.
If it makes you feel good take it easy for 1000 miles, but the rings are already seated.
Rusherific
Well-Known Member
Even with this the case then why would ford recommend you "vary engine speed", of all things, for 1st 100 miles? There's no incentive for them to make up shit in the manual. There must be something that is not completely broken in still just from factory run in. I agree in terms of not needing to baby an engine though...
Crowd Hunter
Well-Known Member
Something seems off about this thread.
stanglife
Well-Known Member
You keep mentioning that the timing chain broke.... You don't know if this was the cause or the effect. I had a 4.6 Cobra that, upon initial inspection, I could say that the cam sprocket broke..but digging in deeper, it was actually the cam itself that seized in the head, at which point the sprocket became the weak point. What I am saying is that it's just as likely that damage occurred somewhere else resulting in what you see there.
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Cobra Jet
Well-Known Member
First I don’t get the f’n mentality of some calling the OP a troll, that’s he lying or that he has some other agenda to come into this forum to stir the pot for shits and giggles.... it’s ignorant.
A true 1965-66 Shelby GT350, documented in the Shelby Registry, will always bring big bucks, even if it’s a rusted out shell. There’s only a limited amount of them that were built and survived now 50+ years. A complete “numbers matched” 65-66 Shelby GT350, GT350H or GT350R will bring top dollar over one that no longer has a numbers matched drivetrain - that could be upwards of a $20k+ price variance too.
A modern day S550 Shelby GT350 is a cookie cutter - too many produced over too many years to be of any real significant “investment” value years down the road like the Classics. You want to invest in a 2015-2020 S550 Shelby GT350, it best have a low build number, desired option package, never went through Dealer Prep, has no miles and is sitting mothballed for another 50-70 years. Otherwise it’s just another one of many GT350’s competing with all the others out there. No offense to any GT350 Owner, it’s just facts.
There’s a huge difference buying a 1965-66 GT350 over a 2015-2020 GT350. The 2015-2020 is still depreciating, while the 65-66 is still appreciating. A standard S550 GT350 won’t command original 65-66 Shelby values anytime soon - not now, not in 10 years or 20.
The S550 GT350R has a better chance of being “investor” grade over the standard S550 GT350 - it’s just fact based on its pedigree and lower produced numbers.
Compare the Classic 65-66 Shelby total production figures with the S550 GT350 total production through FIVE years - THIS is why a Classic Shelby always sells for a “fortune”, regardless if it’s Concours restored, unrestored original, complete drivetrain (numbers matched), not original drivetrain (non-numbers matched), a total wreck, or a total rusted shell....
Figures courtesy of Tony Branda:
Ford flooded the market with 5 years of standard S550 GT350’s - unfortunately it’s as common as a Mustang GT.
The problem today is that Shelby Enthusiasts and Collectors are totally aware of Ford OASIS, Ford Buy Backs, engine replacements, CarFax, AutoCheck, etc. Those folks will walk away from putting down equivalent money on such a GT350 over one that retains it’s numbers matched drivetrain. It’s fact, it’s not BS and those who have had an engine replacement on a S550 GT350 have posted on this site telling how it was a bear of a time trying to unload the car private party OR via Dealer Trade In. Even a Ford Dealer who sees an OASIS report on a GT350 with engine replacement will instantly undervalue the trade, period.
It’s funny of those who say it’s no big deal - but have either never had such a failure OR just don’t get the concern of how an engine replacement on a top shelf Mustang can impact its value now AND in the future.
Look at the big picture from the aspect that the buyer is a true Shelby Enthusiast - not Someone looking for a beater for a track, not someone who already owns a S550 GT350 and wants another as a driver and not someone who doesn’t care about future resale value.
Hypothetical example:
2 S550 GT350 Owners looking to sell.
Both have identical S550 Shelby GT350’s down to exterior/interior colors and options. Both have garaged them and both only have 5,000 miles on them. Both retain all documents and service records. Owner A’s GT350 is numbers matched. Owner B’s is non-numbers matched due to engine replacement. Both are asking $50k. Owner A will sell faster and closer to his asking price with minimal haggles. Owner B’s will get looks and pass overs and he will deal with folks balking at the engine replacement (even though there’s documents from Ford with 100k warranty) and he will be offered nearly $8k-10k+ less than asking price be it private party or dealer trade in.
I challenge many here with this;
Your S550 GT350 engine blows up tomorrow and Ford replaces it - would you still act like it’s no big deal that your Shelby is no longer numbers matched AND your resale or trade in value instantly took a drastic hit?
Below is for discussion purposes so lonegunman don’t read into it or take it as a direct reply to your thoughts.
A true 1965-66 Shelby GT350, documented in the Shelby Registry, will always bring big bucks, even if it’s a rusted out shell. There’s only a limited amount of them that were built and survived now 50+ years. A complete “numbers matched” 65-66 Shelby GT350, GT350H or GT350R will bring top dollar over one that no longer has a numbers matched drivetrain - that could be upwards of a $20k+ price variance too.
A modern day S550 Shelby GT350 is a cookie cutter - too many produced over too many years to be of any real significant “investment” value years down the road like the Classics. You want to invest in a 2015-2020 S550 Shelby GT350, it best have a low build number, desired option package, never went through Dealer Prep, has no miles and is sitting mothballed for another 50-70 years. Otherwise it’s just another one of many GT350’s competing with all the others out there. No offense to any GT350 Owner, it’s just facts.
There’s a huge difference buying a 1965-66 GT350 over a 2015-2020 GT350. The 2015-2020 is still depreciating, while the 65-66 is still appreciating. A standard S550 GT350 won’t command original 65-66 Shelby values anytime soon - not now, not in 10 years or 20.
The S550 GT350R has a better chance of being “investor” grade over the standard S550 GT350 - it’s just fact based on its pedigree and lower produced numbers.
Compare the Classic 65-66 Shelby total production figures with the S550 GT350 total production through FIVE years - THIS is why a Classic Shelby always sells for a “fortune”, regardless if it’s Concours restored, unrestored original, complete drivetrain (numbers matched), not original drivetrain (non-numbers matched), a total wreck, or a total rusted shell....
Figures courtesy of Tony Branda:
Ford flooded the market with 5 years of standard S550 GT350’s - unfortunately it’s as common as a Mustang GT.
The problem today is that Shelby Enthusiasts and Collectors are totally aware of Ford OASIS, Ford Buy Backs, engine replacements, CarFax, AutoCheck, etc. Those folks will walk away from putting down equivalent money on such a GT350 over one that retains it’s numbers matched drivetrain. It’s fact, it’s not BS and those who have had an engine replacement on a S550 GT350 have posted on this site telling how it was a bear of a time trying to unload the car private party OR via Dealer Trade In. Even a Ford Dealer who sees an OASIS report on a GT350 with engine replacement will instantly undervalue the trade, period.
It’s funny of those who say it’s no big deal - but have either never had such a failure OR just don’t get the concern of how an engine replacement on a top shelf Mustang can impact its value now AND in the future.
Look at the big picture from the aspect that the buyer is a true Shelby Enthusiast - not Someone looking for a beater for a track, not someone who already owns a S550 GT350 and wants another as a driver and not someone who doesn’t care about future resale value.
Hypothetical example:
2 S550 GT350 Owners looking to sell.
Both have identical S550 Shelby GT350’s down to exterior/interior colors and options. Both have garaged them and both only have 5,000 miles on them. Both retain all documents and service records. Owner A’s GT350 is numbers matched. Owner B’s is non-numbers matched due to engine replacement. Both are asking $50k. Owner A will sell faster and closer to his asking price with minimal haggles. Owner B’s will get looks and pass overs and he will deal with folks balking at the engine replacement (even though there’s documents from Ford with 100k warranty) and he will be offered nearly $8k-10k+ less than asking price be it private party or dealer trade in.
I challenge many here with this;
Your S550 GT350 engine blows up tomorrow and Ford replaces it - would you still act like it’s no big deal that your Shelby is no longer numbers matched AND your resale or trade in value instantly took a drastic hit?
Strokerswild
Shallow and Pedantic
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Blasphemer. My '15 GT is Marti-documented as 1-of-1 as produced.
(Not that it'll matter one bit while I'm alive, or probably even long after.)
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- #149
Yes actually, my brother is a Master ASE certified tech with 30 years experience, a fleet manager and a service manager at one point or the other and I took his advice. I'm sure your years of lower or middle management make you an expert at pretty much everything.
If you think cranking a non-running engine for few minutes to see if it has oil pressure is a full break-in, but I don't. I'm sure a replacement engine is not the end of the world. Wait 20 days, lemon law the car and go find another one and start over. Hopefully the results of that won't be 12 pages long.
K4fxd
Well-Known Member
I'd ask for some sort of compensation, extended warranty or maybe even a check from ford. My car got hit and the at fault's insurance company gave me an additional 5000 dollars for the loss of value due to an accident on the car fax report.
Personally I wouldn't care if my car's engine blew and ford replaced it under warranty. I buy cars to drive, not sit in a garage to be looked at and polished.
So I would not be seeking to sell with 5K miles unless I hated the car
Personally I wouldn't care if my car's engine blew and ford replaced it under warranty. I buy cars to drive, not sit in a garage to be looked at and polished.
So I would not be seeking to sell with 5K miles unless I hated the car
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