Well.... looky what i got on ebay part 2

Alex.Envy

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On both my GT350Rs, I have the SV902s. Great wheels, but doing it again, I would get them naked and paint them. On my GT500, I have SV801s. I sincerely regret getting the exotic black (triple brushed black or something). There is no matching that finish and there are chips all over.
SV801s are nice! what's the offset?
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Alex.Envy

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Dude, you should totally get these. But I think the rear fitment would be too aggressive to tuck under your fender when fully aired out.
I ended up changing my ride height from when we first did the test fit. If we were the same height then it would be equal to about -2.6 all around. I'm at -2 all around at ~25 PSI more with the current set up.
 

Michael_vroomvroom

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My point is that you will never match a powder coat job. NEVER.
Right. So what's needed is to take all four wheels to the powder coat shop and recoat all of them. Sucks and quadruples the price, but it looks like that is what it will take to get a full match.
 
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Right. So what's needed is to take all four wheels to the powder coat shop and recoat all of them. Sucks and quadruples the price, but it looks like that is what it will take to get a full match.
Yes, that is an option. However each time you bake an aluminum wheel, you break down the strength of the aluminum. That is why I said before that if I were to do it again, I would opt for naked aluminum and paint it myself.
 

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My point is that you will never match a powder coat job. NEVER. As I suggested to another member, if you are going to go this route, know exactly what you are getting yourself into. Find a local powder coater.... show him your color..... ask him if he can match it.

I did that with a simple color, gloss black. It doesn't match. Now, throw an eotic powder coat into the mix. You sir are screwed. So the question everyone should be asking is how much will a replacement wheel cost you because re powder coat isn't going to cut it.
Absolutely true.

I have a set of wheels that were brushed and powdercoated in several layers of transparent black to essentially match the level of tint of a similarly finished wheel in a picture. They were beautiful. Unfortunately they chip easily, it's like the powdercoat is brittle. I've tried everything imaginable for touch-up, from paint that almost matches to trying to tint clear nail polish with black; none net the result I'd like. I've learned to live with it, knowing eventually I'll have to either get different wheels or blast them and have them redone entirely.

If I had to do it all over again, I would have gone with a straight shade of gray powder from the wheel manufacturer or match a RAL number with paint. Live and learn.
 
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Absolutely true.

I have a set of wheels that were brushed and powdercoated in several layers of transparent black to essentially match the level of tint of a similarly finished wheel in a picture. They were beautiful. Unfortunately they chip easily, it's like the powdercoat is brittle. I've tried everything imaginable for touch-up, from paint that almost matches to trying to tint clear nail polish with black; none net the result I'd like. I've learned to live with it, knowing eventually I'll have to either get different wheels or blast them and have them redone entirely.

If I had to do it all over again, I would have gone with a straight shade of gray powder from the wheel manufacturer or match a RAL number with paint. Live and learn.
Exactly. People get this pretty wheel out of the box and then when something happens...... you are screwed.

Edited to add:

As stated, not any two powder coat jobs are the same. They mix the powder for each wheel for each order where the signature wheels are made? Well what happens when you order a replacement discount wheel? It may be close, but as pointed out, it will never be a match.
 
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It sounds like Signature Wheels is developing a touch up paint program which would be welcome. Finding proper touch up paint for wheels, including OEM is near impossible on a lot of cars. Do we even have touch up paint for the standard GT500 wheels yet?
 
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It sounds like Signature Wheels is developing a touch up paint program which would be welcome. Finding proper touch up paint for wheels, including OEM is near impossible on a lot of cars. Do we even have touch up paint for the standard GT500 wheels yet?
I agree. If that is true, that is a step in the right direction. Last I read from the official policy was that you buy them as is and repair is the end users responsibility.

As for oem cf wheels, it is resin, no paint to touch up. Scratch or blemish it and you are looking at some resin with a wetsand and polish.
 

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Yes, that is an option. However each time you bake an aluminum wheel, you break down the strength of the aluminum. That is why I said before that if I were to do it again, I would opt for naked aluminum and paint it myself.
Powder coating temperatures are around 200degC... Aluminum strength decrease at operation temperature above 315degC. Wheels will never see that thermal load when in operation (only see dynamic and static loads).
 

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erolivas

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Not so sure about that, but I think this is a pretty good thread for those who want to read more:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/wheels-tires/164494-powder-coating-wheels-pros-cons.html
Not so sure about what?

Reduction of material strength is not only a function of temperature, but also time.

Strength reduction depends on the aluminum alloy (5052, 6061, etc) that is used and the associated tempering (H32, T5, T6, etc). To remove all strength associated with the aging process (precipitants) one would need to fully anneal the material. To fully anneal 6061 for example you would need to be at 412degC (775degF) for a minimum of 2 hours then air cool. If memory serves me correct the bake time for powder coating might be 20 minutes or less at half the anneal temperature.

One could always anodize aluminum as a alternative to powder coating.

Here is what the drop off in strength (6061-t6) looks like from room temperature to 200degC: 320MPa @ RM and 280 MPa @ 200degC or ~12% decrease.
 
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Powder coating temperatures are around 200degC... Aluminum strength decrease at operation temperature above 315degC. Wheels will never see that thermal load when in operation (only see dynamic and static loads).
I guess it depends on which article you read. If it wasn't a factor, why do they prefer a low temp bake and powder?
 

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Not so sure about what?
Not so sure About 200 degrees C being safe.

According to info in the thread, 300 degrees F (~150 degrees C) was the max safe temperature for powder coating 6061 aluminium wheels.
 

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Not so sure About 200 degrees C being safe.

According to info in the thread, 300 degrees F (~150 degrees C) was the max safe temperature for powder coating 6061 aluminium wheels.
Nowhere in my posts did I say 200° C being safe. I simply stated what I’ve read and seen as bake temperatures for powder coating and what temperature one sees a dramatic decrease in material strength.
 
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