WARNING dumb ass question!! Brakes and Weight reduction

[Brad1810r80]

WARNING dumb ass question: Trying to make my Betsy little skinner. Was going to do Baer 2.0 front brakes but I keep hearing stories of pad sticking , brake noise etc… so I’m leaning toward Baer EradiSpeed front rotors. I have a pp1 car with the big brakes. Is there anyway to make the 14” rotors work with the 6 piston brembos??? Couple reason the 14” is lighter than 15” and about $300 cheaper.

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[Chef jpd]

 

[Cobra Jet]

If you're looking to save 1-2 lbs to make it lighter, take a healthy dump.... or remove the rear seat assembly.

Going from larger brake rotors to smaller is not a "gain" at all and if there's an affordability issue with either doing upgrades or having to maintain the car with replacement parts - maybe, Finance 101?

. . .you posted . . .and asked...

 

[Brad1810r80]

It’s actually about 24lbs of rotating mass with just swapping to the 14” rotors and 60lbs to go Baer drag brakes.

If you're looking to save 1-2 lbs to make it lighter, take a healthy dump.... or remove the rear seat assembly.

Going from larger brake rotors to smaller is not a "gain" at all and if there's an affordability issue with either doing upgrades or having to maintain the car with replacement parts - maybe, Finance 101?

. . .you posted . . .and asked...

 

[TrackMustang]

It’s actually about 24lbs of rotating mass with just swapping to the 14” rotors and 60lbs to go Baer drag brakes.

When you do this switch I’ll buy your stock 15” rotors off you

 

[RoadCone]

I purchased Baer Eradispeed rotors front and back for my PP car. They are nice and work well. Dropped about 1K for front rotors alone. I have since switched to TBM brakes. They are super light. But it depends on how much street driving you do and what your after.

Baer Drag brakes def stick and stick. I have seen this numerous times.

 

[Brad1810r80]

I have the baer eradispeed rear, I mostly just street cruise the car occasionally dragstrip . I probably end up going with the 15" eradispeed front also.

I purchased Baer Eradispeed rotors front and back for my PP car. They are nice and work well. Dropped about 1K for front rotors alone. I have since switched to TBM brakes. They are super light. But it depends on how much street driving you do and what your after.

Baer Drag brakes def stick and stick. I have seen this numerous times.

 

[RoadCone]

I have the baer eradispeed rear, I mostly just street cruise the car occasionally dragstrip . I probably end up going with the 15" eradispeed front also.

Sounds good..... I still have the eradispeed on the rear with stock calipers. Maybe one day I will change them to TBM also. Good Luck!

 

[Stage_3]

No such thing as dumb questions,...............
Hope this helps.

 

[TeeLew]

Steeda doesn't say where they source their discs. I might be more interested if they did, but they do not appear to be from any well regarded manufacturer. AL hats will drop weight. I ran the numbers on Steeda's wheel weight vid. There is not a shot in hell that they're 'gaining' the power that video suggests. The effective power gain is well below the noise floor of their dyno. The weight loss due to the hats (the friction surface itself is iron, so the same weight as stock) is on a small enough radius to be next to meaningless. Dropping the unsprung weight is a good thing in general, but it's not going to noticeably change the car.

The biggest gain is actually for the 14" brake package, because it puts the cooling vanes on the inboard side of the brake bell (OEM is stupidly on the outboard side of the disc...the engineer that did this should be tarred and feathered), which will immediately drop temps several hundred degrees on track.

I'm not convinced Baer discs are much better (my guess is that both are Chinese in origin and built for cost as opposed to performance), but at least they're an actual brake company. The drag package drops a bunch of weight, but don't expect to stop like a factory PP car.

 

[br_an]

you can save a bunch of weight if you remove the braking system altogether


(no dumb questions, but there are dumb answers)

 

[Radiation Joe]

The biggest gain is actually for the 14" brake package, because it puts the cooling vanes on the inboard side of the brake bell (OEM is stupidly on the outboard side of the disc...the engineer that did this should be tarred and feathered), which will immediately drop temps several hundred degrees on track.

I'm going to say this again.
They put the intake for the vanes on the outside for a reason. Don't automatically assume it's not better for cooling. If the air pressure is higher on the outside of the disk, or the temperature is lower on the outside of the disk, it's a better choice to put the disk inlet on the outside. If you add cooling ducts to the disk inlets, then we can assume the inside inlets will be better. Otherwise, show me the data showing inside is better.

P.S. If I had a GTPP the only disc I'd run would be a Performance Friction two piece. The metallurgy is superior and the design is class leading.

 

[TeeLew]

I'm going to say this again.
They put the intake for the vanes on the outside for a reason. Don't automatically assume it's not better for cooling. If the air pressure is higher on the outside of the disk, or the temperature is lower on the outside of the disk, it's a better choice to put the disk inlet on the outside. If you add cooling ducts to the disk inlets, then we can assume the inside inlets will be better. Otherwise, show me the data showing inside is better.

P.S. If I had a GTPP the only disc I'd run would be a Performance Friction two piece. The metallurgy is superior and the design is class leading.

Say whatever you want as many times as you want, Jack. It's shit for a cooling. And, yes, to your point, if you have no cooling, it probably doesn't matter much, but, if you don't have any cooling to the disc, then why are the discs even vented? Put on a 10" solid disc and be done with it. There are plenty of times while racing where you intentionally block cooling air to boost brake temp for better performance. This isn't one of them.

Externally vented discs intentionally keep the inner disc face hotter to avoid warping. Both faces of the disc see an equal amount of air (F-all), so they don't warp if you do a 120-0 stop and then sit at a stoplight with your foot on the brake. They should never be used in a performance application.

As far as disc suppliers, we agree, PFC is best, hands down. Brembo, Alcon, AP are also very good, albeit a 1/2 step off. Stock car based options (Wilwood, Coleman, & some others) are not nearly as good, but would probably work for most people if they had the correct sizes (most do not). Baer and Steeda make options for the 14"F/13"R package. I suppose they might work just fine. I don't know, but even from the online pics, the quality looks suspect. I wish there were options with a little better pedigree.

 

[Firsttexan]

I have the baer eradispeed rear, I mostly just street cruise the car occasionally dragstrip . I probably end up going with the 15" eradispeed front also.

Tie the Eradispeed rotors with a set of forged wheels and you have a significant weight savings.

It should really be felt in the handling dept.

Of course the wheels are 98% of the weight savings.

 

[Brad1810r80]

I think I posted this wrong section lol. I’m more into drag racing . Not so much handling or trying to stop on a dime. Just looking for some weight reduction. If it slows me down from 1/4 mile pass I’m good.

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