Want to add amps? PAC Amp Pro on sale at Best Buy

[StangTime]

The 9 speaker system is analog. The ap4-fd21 intercepts the digital signal before it goes into the factory DSP/amp on the Sony, Revel, and some B&O applications. . For your application, I would highly recommend the JL Audio Fix 86. It’s a high quality line output converter and DSP in one unit. You don’t have to use a dsp, but you can get a much better sounding system with one. If you’re wanting to keep the spend down, the cheapest I’d go for a LOC would be an Audiocontrol LC7i. You really do get what you pay for in these, and the cheap ones tend to reduce frequency response and introduce noise.

I agree with Stangtime and would go with the DSP for $300 more if it was my car. Good luck.

For the non B&O, the JL Fix 86 is not really required if you do the simple Forscan trick. Then what you would use a DSP like a JL TWK 88. You can run the low-level signals from the head unit straight into it. Then feed your amplifiers from there.

Now, another option is the JL VX1000/5i amplifier with built in DSP. The DSP in this amp can be configured and controlled by Bluetooth with JL's app. TUN software is recommended for more advanced settings. So that is actually an even better option than the TWK 88 if both an amplifier and DSP are required.

Sponsored

 

[2018Creamsicle]

For the non B&O, the JL Fix 86 is not really required if you do the simple Forscan trick. Then what you would use a DSP like a JL TWK 88. You can run the low-level signals from the head unit straight into it. Then feed your amplifiers from there.

Now, another option is the JL VX1000/5i amplifier with built in DSP. The DSP in this amp can be configured and controlled by Bluetooth with JL's app. TUN software is recommended for more advanced settings. So that is actually an even better option than the TWK 88 if both an amplifier and DSP are required.

The TWK-88 is a great unit. I’ve used it and the D8 in several cars. The fix 86 has the automatic built in adjustment, though, so you kill 2 birds with one stone, and it’s a simpler solution for most people. I know about the forscan hack. I‘ve tried it on other Fords, but I’m not totally convinced you truly get a flat signal without the post processing of the Fix. I know there’s lots of arguments both ways. There’s also the Metra Ax-DSP. I don’t have any personal experience with it, though. Lots of ways to do it. It just depends how much money you want to spend and what your pleasure is. Those VX amps are a bit expensive for power level and not available at higher power, but I’m a little nuts. Lol. 1600 watts RMS total wasn’t enough for me in my F250, so I upgraded sub amp and now am at 2100 nominal, more like 2400 in reality as JL amps are way underrated. Definitely am considering going with a 5 channel VX1000/5i on our upcoming GT500 for simplicity and weight. Not going too crazy on that car. Famous last words…Lol

Just to prove I’m not just some blowhard, here are some pics. Sorry for the thread hijacking guys.


Here’s the amp rack in the wife’s Raptor with a Twk-D8.

Raptor doors

Full interior sound deadening

My Super Duty with another Twk

Sub Box

Recently upgraded amp rack. Really squeezed that RD1500/1 in.

 

[ICU812]

So confused. my car is a 2020 with the 12 speaker system, it isn't listed as a B/O .
It it the same as the 2021 B/O 12 speaker set up?

 

[StangTime]

So confused. my car is a 2020 with the 12 speaker system, it isn't listed as a B/O .
It it the same as the 2021 B/O 12 speaker set up?

Look under the dash above the drivers kick panel. If you see this amp you have a standard 12 speaker system and easy to upgrade/interface with:

 

[2018Creamsicle]

So confused. my car is a 2020 with the 12 speaker system, it isn't listed as a B/O .
It it the same as the 2021 B/O 12 speaker set up?

Check out the compatibility notes section here. https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd21

I don’t have specific experience with a 2020 Mustang, but I have quite a bit with other Fords with the so called B&O system. In every case, if the amp looks like the one pictured in those notes, the AP4-FD21 will work. The B&O system in 18-19 Super Duty and Mustang is not really B&O. It’s a hybrid system that uses the legacy CANBUS based system. The true B&O system that’s used in new F-150s uses the A2B bus that’s basically a derivation of USB.

I’m virtually certain your car is compatible with the AP4-FD21.

 

[Evolvd]

According to PAC audio the product does not work with an analog system. They even post a picture of the amp your car must have in order for their system to work. The B&O 12 speaker setup has this amp. Just look under the dash above the hood pull. You can see it without removing anything.

 

[Cathul]

In case you got the non-B&O amplified system just use a modified idatalink Maestro T-harness or an unaltered idatalink T-harness with the DSR1/Maestro AR.

 

[Matthewstorm]

I have one in my B&O equipped Mustang. I recommend buying the optional Toslink port and a fiber optic cable, so that you can eliminate having to run multiple RCA cables to either the amps or DSP.

What I did.

Sponsored