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I just purchased one for my upcoming install. This is perfect for my simple, active component setup using JBL 8-channel amp.
 

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I have one in my B&O equipped Mustang. I recommend buying the optional Toslink port and a fiber optic cable, so that you can eliminate having to run multiple RCA cables to either the amps or DSP.
 
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I have on in my B&O equipped Mustang. I recommend buying the optional Toslink port and a fiber optic cable, so that you can eliminate having to run multiple RCA cables to either the amps or DSP.
I’m doing the same
 

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I have one in my B&O equipped Mustang. I recommend buying the optional Toslink port and a fiber optic cable, so that you can eliminate having to run multiple RCA cables to either the amps or DSP.
So you eliminate one pair of RCA cables with one Toslink.
Tbh... if you said i want digital from Pre-out to DSP, then yes, totally valid, especially knowing that the optical signal from the Pac Amp-Pro is volume regulated, but even with toslink from AmpPro to DSP you still need RCAs from DSP to amplifiers.
 

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So you eliminate one pair of RCA cables with one Toslink.
Tbh... if you said i want digital from Pre-out to DSP, then yes, totally valid, especially knowing that the optical signal from the Pac Amp-Pro is volume regulated, but even with toslink from AmpPro to DSP you still need RCAs from DSP to amplifiers.
Toslink allows you to eliminate all RCA cables from the AmpPro back to the DSP. You are correct in that RCA cables are still needed from the DSP to the amps. For me it made sense to do it this way, as real estate is tight under the door sills, so the less stereo cabling I had to run underneath them the better. Keep in mind, I also had to run new speaker wire down both sides, along with lots of wiring for nitrous components. Either way works though.
 
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So you eliminate one pair of RCA cables with one Toslink.
Tbh... if you said i want digital from Pre-out to DSP, then yes, totally valid, especially knowing that the optical signal from the Pac Amp-Pro is volume regulated, but even with toslink from AmpPro to DSP you still need RCAs from DSP to amplifiers.
Unless of course if you buy an amp with a DSP built in and optical audio in like the VXi series of amps from JL Audio.
 

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Unless of course if you buy an amp with a DSP built in and optical audio in like the VXi series of amps from JL Audio.
that's a nice amp! my 6 speakers, JBL DSP4806 amp (w/built in DSP managed via laptop) and professional installation cost is slightly higher than the cost of the VXi 6 channel amp. :)
 
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that's a nice amp! my 6 speakers, JBL DSP4806 amp (w/built in DSP managed via laptop) and professional installation cost is slightly higher than the cost of the VXi 6 channel amp. :)
I’m looking to do the vxi 800/8 and 600/1 for my system
 

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Excellent choices, though they are very hard to find currently.

I’m looking to do the vxi 800/8 and 600/1 for my system
 

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The signal has to be converted back to analog in order to be amplified, even in the JL Vx amps. The biggest advantage to the optical connection is noise rejection. I have used this module in several Fords and changed over from analog RCAs to the optical connection in one. The noise floor was vastly improved. You get basically no hiss and zero alternator whine, ground loop noise, etc. There is much less opportunity to pick up noise using short rca cables from your dsp to the amps than there is in 15 foot cables coming from the front of the car.

Save yourselves a lot of grief and just do the optical option from the start. It’s worth it.
 

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Is this only for the B&O system? I have the 9 speaker 400A system and i'm planning my build. Looking to add new speakers, 5 chanel amp and a sub. I'm not sure if I need a DSP or this or both.

My car audio experience is a little old school, deck, equalizer, amps, drivers done. Not that simple these days.
 

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Is this only for the B&O system? I have the 9 speaker 400A system and i'm planning my build. Looking to add new speakers, 5 chanel amp and a sub. I'm not sure if I need a DSP or this or both.

My car audio experience is a little old school, deck, equalizer, amps, drivers done. Not that simple these days.
This might help you: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...aker-system-without-a-loc.159271/post-3244386
Down a little further in that thread I included a complete system wiring diagram PDF.

You can skip the DSP part but I highly recommend one. They provide a whole level of adjustment that you just can't do with an EQ alone.
 

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Is this only for the B&O system? I have the 9 speaker 400A system and i'm planning my build. Looking to add new speakers, 5 chanel amp and a sub. I'm not sure if I need a DSP or this or both.

My car audio experience is a little old school, deck, equalizer, amps, drivers done. Not that simple these days.
The 9 speaker system is analog. The ap4-fd21 intercepts the digital signal before it goes into the factory DSP/amp on the Sony, Revel, and some B&O applications. . For your application, I would highly recommend the JL Audio Fix 86. It’s a high quality line output converter and DSP in one unit. You don’t have to use a dsp, but you can get a much better sounding system with one. If you’re wanting to keep the spend down, the cheapest I’d go for a LOC would be an Audiocontrol LC7i. You really do get what you pay for in these, and the cheap ones tend to reduce frequency response and introduce noise.

I agree with Stangtime and would go with the DSP for $300 more if it was my car. Good luck.
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