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Want 10.5 x 19 forged rims (F+R) for PPL2

Biggus Dickus

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Please point me in the direction of options - I want 10.5 x 19 forged for front and rear that will run 305/35r19s. Thanks
 

ModularKid21

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What’s your budget? Monoblock or multi piece?
 

shogun32

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do you want the same offsets?
 

Biggus Dickus

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What’s your budget? Monoblock or multi piece?
I'm OK with a grand / wheel but could pay more if really worth it. The money is not the issue as much as it doesn't make sense to get something over the top like HREs for a Mustang GT.

Mono block is preferable.
 

Biggus Dickus

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do you want the same offsets?
CORRECTION - I THINK I MEAN "NO".

Yes - I think 10.5 in the rear on a PPL2 would work well b/c the stock 11's stick out a wee bit too much.
 
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shogun32

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For the front, ET35 (or 32 using 3mm spacer) is as inboard as you're going to get. Max tire is 285/35. Flow-formed (not fully forged) wheels include Ray's gramlights, VMR V710FF and ESR RF02.

For the rear though you probably want at last an ET40 if not >43. If you want to settle on just a single common rim then I would choose the ET40 and run a 5mm spacer up front and no tire wider than 285/35.

If you insist on running 305/30 tires up front you need an ET24 or ET30 with a 3-5mm spacer. But running an ET30 wheel out back will stick out considerably more than the factory PP2 rear wheel does.

IMO the only good way to run 305/30 is 11et24 and 11et50.
 
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ModularKid21

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The offsets will be the tricky part depending on how picky you are about fitment. I’ve talked to MRR about their forged lineup and Paul at PK auto about the BC Forged Monoblock series. You can have them built to your specific specs/color and just about all of them are under a grand/wheel. With a 305/35, you’re pretty much guaranteed to have to run a spacer to get the fitment you’re looking for. As any 10.5” that fits up front, will poke when put out back given that they’re the same offset
 

NightmareMoon

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Yes - I think 10.5 in the rear on a PPL2 would work well b/c the stock 11's stick out a wee bit too much.
That doesn't follow. The problem with the PP2 poke isn't the width of the wheel, its the offset and lack of stock camber. I can't personally fathom why they run such a pokey offset, other than to make sure there is plenty of inside clearance for the unknown. Corporate engineering tolerances for snow chains or some other such nonsense.

The PP2 rear wheels stick out oddly, but there are plenty of 11" ET rear wheels which fit fine... when they get the offsets and camber right. If you ran more rear camber on the PP2 the 11"s would tuck nicely. I run a 11" ET52 rear wheel with 2 degrees of camber (which is 4mm less poke than the PP2 rear wheel) and my 11" (wiht a 305 tire) tucks very conservatively inside the fender. You could get away with less camber.

The challenge with running a square 10.5" fitment is that to get the front to clear the strut, it means the rear is going to poke. A 10" ET35 offset wheel is a little pokey on the rear axle already, and to get a 10.5" to clear the front strut you're looking at maybe a 10.5" ET38 (which is very tight), and thats 4mm MORE poke on the rear than the 10" ET35. The factory front PP2 wheel for the above mentioned Ford inside clearances is a 10.5 ET24, which would be massive poke if you put that on the rear axle.

TL;DR - I'd suggest a 10.5" ET38 for a square fitment, and that would likely require a front 5mm spacer to fit the front axle, and its going to be slightly pokey on the rear axle but would tuck with a fair amount of camber (1.7-2deg).

The rest of us (who aren't trying to do it the hard way with 10.5" wheels and custom offsets) tend to run one of three options:
  1. Square 11" ET52 wheels and accept the fact that a 25mm spacer makes those fit on the front axle (combined with 1" extended studs for the slip on spacers, and camber plates to tuck the front)
  2. or 10" ET35 fronts with 11" ET52 rears for an easy staggered setup (with 285/305 tires)
  3. or just do the easy square 10" ET35 w/ 285 tires for the easy square win.
 

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shogun32

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f you ran more rear camber on the PP2 the 11"s would tuck nicely.
Maybe I'm weird but my definition of poke is whatever I hit if I drop a razor blade straight down from the fender. It doesn't matter if the top of the tire might be inside because it's canted inward, if the rest of the wheel is proud of the plane.

My Camaro also has the 10.5 up front problem - there is no good solution. So I run 10/11. The Mustang really needs a 10.5et45 to get that rear wheel recessed properly especially if you want to run a 305 tire. But that means a 10-13mm spacer up front with 1/4" of poke (more with wider tire).
 

NightmareMoon

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Maybe I'm weird but my definition of poke is whatever I hit if I drop a razor blade straight down from the fender. It doesn't matter if the top of the tire might be inside because it's canted inward, if the rest of the wheel is proud of the plane.

My Camaro also has the 10.5 up front problem - there is no good solution. So I run 10/11. The Mustang really needs a 10.5et45 to get that rear wheel recessed properly especially if you want to run a 305 tire. But that means a 10-13mm spacer up front.
Yeah, you're just weird :p

I agree, a 10.5 ET45 would be a more correct rear 10.5" wheel fit, its identical wheel face placement to a 11" ET52 which is so common (and still possibly some minor poke by your definition), and you'd very likely require more spacer than the stock-length studs can tolerate. This is why you see almost no 10.5" square fitments for our cars, its very tricky. The 305 tire does make everything a little harder. You might as well run a 11" wheel if you're running a 305, because its the tire that is going to contact things first, not the wheel itself, and that 305 tire is 11+ inches wide. 295 tires are more suitable for a tight fitting 10.5" wheel.
 

Biggus Dickus

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Well, first of all, thanks for the thoughtful and detailed responses. That said, your knowledge outstrips mine exponentially. So...assume I know nothing and want 10.5s up front and in back, but I would just as soon have the wheels dedicated (fronts spec'd for the front, rears spec'd for the rears) to their respective positions and avoid spacers if possible. With that in mind, and knowing I want a tire wall fairly flush with the fender (or just slightly poking out), what do I tell the wheel mfr as far as the specs I need or what do I tell them when ordering the wheels?

Thanks - I just need it dumbed down.
 

Biggus Dickus

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That doesn't follow. The problem with the PP2 poke isn't the width of the wheel, its the offset and lack of stock camber. I can't personally fathom why they run such a pokey offset, other than to make sure there is plenty of inside clearance for the unknown. Corporate engineering tolerances for snow chains or some other such nonsense.

The PP2 rear wheels stick out oddly, but there are plenty of 11" ET rear wheels which fit fine... when they get the offsets and camber right. If you ran more rear camber on the PP2 the 11"s would tuck nicely. I run a 11" ET52 rear wheel with 2 degrees of camber (which is 4mm less poke than the PP2 rear wheel) and my 11" (wiht a 305 tire) tucks very conservatively inside the fender. You could get away with less camber.

The challenge with running a square 10.5" fitment is that to get the front to clear the strut, it means the rear is going to poke. A 10" ET35 offset wheel is a little pokey on the rear axle already, and to get a 10.5" to clear the front strut you're looking at maybe a 10.5" ET38 (which is very tight), and thats 4mm MORE poke on the rear than the 10" ET35. The factory front PP2 wheel for the above mentioned Ford inside clearances is a 10.5 ET24, which would be massive poke if you put that on the rear axle.

TL;DR - I'd suggest a 10.5" ET38 for a square fitment, and that would likely require a front 5mm spacer to fit the front axle, and its going to be slightly pokey on the rear axle but would tuck with a fair amount of camber (1.7-2deg).

The rest of us (who aren't trying to do it the hard way with 10.5" wheels and custom offsets) tend to run one of three options:
  1. Square 11" ET52 wheels and accept the fact that a 25mm spacer makes those fit on the front axle (combined with 1" extended studs for the slip on spacers, and camber plates to tuck the front)
  2. or 10" ET35 fronts with 11" ET52 rears for an easy staggered setup (with 285/305 tires)
  3. or just do the easy square 10" ET35 w/ 285 tires for the easy square win.

My response to your initial question reflects my ignorance - I'm just a guy who wants a decent set of forged wheels that look good and perform well, because my goal is to unload unsprung weight. I like the 305s on the PPL2 because the handling is awesome. I can only imagine how shedding 10#/wheel would feel.
 

shogun32

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et35 front, et45 rear. You will likely need a 3mm spacer up front if you mount a tire wider than 285/35. You should probably have a conversation with PK Auto Design and MRR both vendors on this forum and hash out the particulars. Or before you drop $2000 on an unknown, buy an et45 wheel and a collection of spacers ($65 for a 10.5et45 wheel - https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Centerline-053670B-SM1-REV-7-19X10-5-5X4-50-73-00-Hub-45-Black-Wheel-Rim/362888661048) and put a 305 tire on it and do a mock up session.

spacer: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-WHEEL-SPACERS-5MM-OR-3-16-FITS-ALL-5X100-5X108-5X112-5X114-3-5X115-5X120/141144119317
 

Biggsy

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well Apex is releasing their forged line for mustang wheels soon and may be available as a group buy so that is an opportunity to save
 

Fly2High

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I do not see the poke on my PP2 with a Stock 19 x11 ET48. the front do poke a little but barely.

IMG_6898.JPG


As for putting the 19 x10.5 ET 24 stock wheel on the back. the dealer sold me the car that way. We think they buggered up the original wheel on shipment and ordered the wrong one for the back.

this is how much it stuck out - 1.2" beyond the 19 x11 ET48. I now have the correct 19 x 11 ET48 on the back.

IMG_6897.JPG
 

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