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VCT Solenoids? Rough Idle Randomly Gen 3 5.0 10R80 81K miles

bbowes9

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Hey all, back again! lol
basically to explain whats going on is my car started having some rough idling/stutters every now and then randomly. no codes get thrown at all when it occurs and no lights.

from my research I suspected it would be the VCT Solenoids, so I've spent the last week trying to catch it stutter on a data log, and finally caught today. (It happens pretty rare but when it does it usually does it a few times every 30 seconds to a minute.)

I'll attach a screenshot of my datalog where it was sitting at Idle RPM when it happened twice. Just want to get some other people's opinions on it and if I'm on the right track or not before i start throwing money at the car. Really appreciate it!

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Strokerswild

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If the solenoids are bad enough, they will cause intermittent stalling (and codes) as well as the rough/inconsistent idle.

All four VCT solenoids had to be replaced on my '19 F150 (known affectionately as The Lemon) at about 20K miles for those reasons.
 

Coyotebawl

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Yeap had the same issues on my 2019 gt .
Changed all 4 sensors and it fixed the issue for me . It wasn't bad enough to throw a code but it was constant enough that it was a problem for me as I daily drive the car. I changed all 4 over Xmas break since I had a week off work. . I ended up just buying new valve covers as it was about the same price as just buying all the new gaskets and seals as the new covers come with new gaskets and seals already installed from Ford.
 
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bbowes9

bbowes9

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Yeap had the same issues on my 2019 gt .
Changed all 4 sensors and it fixed the issue for me . It wasn't bad enough to throw a code but it was constant enough that it was a problem for me as I daily drive the car. I changed all 4 over Xmas break since I had a week off work. . I ended up just buying new valve covers as it was about the same price as just buying all the new gaskets and seals as the new covers come with new gaskets and seals already installed from Ford.
Definitely will be what replace first then. appreciate the input!
 

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Coyotebawl

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It make things much easier on the passenger side to remove the metal plate which you can get to all the bolts once you remove the battery box .

The DI fuel pump hard line can be delicately bent out of the way just enough to get the passenger side cover off. That's how I did mine and haven't had any issue . Ford work shop manual states that the hard line should be replaced anytime the line is removed so do so at your own risk

I also went ahead while having everything apart just for the heck of it cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body.
 
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Evenmetal

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My issue was just one of the electrical connectors that goes to the solenoid. Specifically on the driver side. I replaced the plug and all is well. I took @honeybadger advise and it worked out for me. So thank you for that!
 
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bbowes9

bbowes9

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My issue was just one of the electrical connectors that goes to the solenoid. Specifically on the driver side. I replaced the plug and all is well. I took @honeybadger advise and it worked out for me. So thank you for that!
huh, interesting you mention that cause I had some issues with a coil plug connector back in december I made a thread on. would be smart to mess with those first and make sure. Thanks!
 
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bbowes9

bbowes9

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  • Finally got a chance to mess with the connectors. Nothing happened when doing so, after driving for some time I did finally get a P0300 code (Random/Multiple Misfire Detected) and P0316 (Engine Misfire Detected on Startup first 1000 revolutions
  • I also happened to notice while messing with the connectors what looks to be a leak? Adding a photo to show

IMG_1638.jpeg
 

Evenmetal

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Sounds like you may need new ignition coils or plugs? I would replace the gasket that goes around that plug as well.
 

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bbowes9

bbowes9

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so I was poking around today.. I noticed the vvt solenoid connector wasn’t locked. Can’t believe I didn’t see that before. You can actually see it not locked in the photo I sent last night. I hooked up forscan and ran in mode 6, haven’t had a single misfire this whole time even while messing with the wires.

Even if this was just a connector it is still leaking, and I’ve already ordered the replacement solenoids and gaskets lol so I’m doing it anyway!
Lesson learned: check the damn locking tabs.
 

Evenmetal

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so I was poking around today.. I noticed the vvt solenoid connector wasn’t locked. Can’t believe I didn’t see that before. You can actually see it not locked in the photo I sent last night. I hooked up forscan and ran in mode 6, haven’t had a single misfire this whole time even while messing with the wires.

Even if this was just a connector it is still leaking, and I’ve already ordered the replacement solenoids and gaskets lol so I’m doing it anyway!
Lesson learned: check the damn locking tabs.
Great news! Glad it's an easy fix. Now enjoy the piece of mind
 
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bbowes9

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Just reporting in, job was not as bad as a lot of people make it seem. You can move the fuel lines out of the way just enough to get the valve cover off on the passenger side. Everything was straight forward after and she idles better than she has since I bought it at 27k miles.
 

Magnetic Stang

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Just reporting in, job was not as bad as a lot of people make it seem. You can move the fuel lines out of the way just enough to get the valve cover off on the passenger side. Everything was straight forward after and she idles better than she has since I bought it at 27k miles.
Did you have to remove the HPFP from the valve cover or just leave it on when removing the cover?
 
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bbowes9

bbowes9

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Did you have to remove the HPFP from the valve cover or just leave it on when removing the cover?
you have to unbolt it in order for the valve cover to come off. I was able to just maneuver the valve cover off with the lines still attached to to the HPFP without any bends. Also made sure it wasn't pressurized too.
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