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used engine oil + winter storage why is it a bad idea ?

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personally I would put clean in it to remove old combustion by products and then just run it in the spring....
No way to run it in the spring as to OLM start to complain for the oil viscosity because it's sitting for 6 months my friend Mustang has more winters than mine and his OLM is at 10-20% in spring.
 
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my friend Mustang has more winters than mine and his OLM is at 10-20% in spring.
I need to check mine in spring to see if the OLM changed.
 

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Typically used motor oil is acidic. Modern motor oil’s have additives to combat the acid but these additives can be used up over a period of time. I believe the main reason to change oil before storage is to prevent acid from developing and potentially causing damage.
 
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Typically used motor oil is acidic. Modern motor oil’s have additives to combat the acid but these additives can be used up over a period of time. I believe the main reason to change oil before storage is to prevent acid from developing and potentially causing damage.
That's all 30+ year ago thinking. Modern engines produce only a small amount of acid and it is easily controlled by the additive package even for extended drain periods. Doubly so with modern synthetics.
 

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Typically used motor oil is acidic. Modern motor oil’s have additives to combat the acid but these additives can be used up over a period of time. I believe the main reason to change oil before storage is to prevent acid from developing and potentially causing damage.
That's all 30+ year ago thinking. Modern engines produce only a small amount of acid and it is easily controlled by the additive package even for extended drain periods. Doubly so with modern synthetics.
Correct.

If you're really concerned about it, submit a used oil sample to Blackstone Labs and request a TBN (Total Base Number) test for an additional fee.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/do-i-need-a-tbn/

Most of us are not putting nearly enough miles between oil changes to worry in the slightest about acid.

Also, I just start the dang car once every two weeks during the winter. I have a recurring reminder on my phone. That, coupled with 40psi in the tires, a full tank of fresh gas, and a CTEK trickle charger are the extent of my winter storage habits. I always send oil samples to Blackstone, and I've never had a bad oil report.
 

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Also, I just start the dang car once every two weeks during the winter.
That's about the worst thing you can do to your engine :). If you're not going to use the car enough to burn the condensation off the oil, which in winter can be like 15 miles (or more), leave it alone. The condensation inside your engine and exhaust causes internal corrosion and acid... and that's what could deplete the acid neutralizing abilities of your additive package. And no, idling alone would take forever to burn condensation in winter.
 

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That's about the worst thing you can do to your engine :).
See above comment about never getting back a bad oil report. Blackstone Labs uses science instead of BS they heard on the internet. You do realize acid can be measured instead of speculated about? 🙄
 

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Fill up gas tank
Pump up tires to max pressure
Disconnect battery (I don't bother with a tender)
Leave car until spring

I change the oil once pulled out of storage in the spring and have never had an issue. I'm also of the philosophy to just let the car sit, no need to start it every few weeks.
 

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You do realize acid can be measured instead of speculated about? 🙄
That's just one possibility. The main reason not to just start an engine in winter is CONDENSATION. And even if you're illiterate, you must see water coming out of your exhaust, and know it would puddle inside your engine if not allowed to evaporate, which won't happen by just idling the engine for a few minutes. And no, oil additives can't prevent rust.
 

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Spart

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That's just one possibility. The main reason not to just start an engine in winter is CONDENSATION. And even if you're illiterate, you must see water coming out of your exhaust, and know it would puddle inside your engine if not allowed to evaporate, which won't happen by just idling the engine for a few minutes. And no, oil additives can't prevent rust.
I will get back to you when the water pooling in the bottom of the oil pan rusts through the plastic.

It may take a while, don't wait up.
 

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Can't you just drive it during the winter? As long as the conditions permit itself?
 
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I need to check mine in spring to see if the OLM changed.
Well I waited for Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 to go one sale, it did, so I changed the oil today. 7.56 liters went in last spring, around 7.5 liters came out (let it drain for an hour). i also checked the OLM before I reseted it. didn't budge. Was still at 16%. So now it's gonna sit till May, no starting it, cause everything I've read, that's the absolute worst thing to do. Better off just letting it sit.
 

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Well I waited for Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 to go one sale, it did, so I changed the oil today. 7.56 liters went in last spring, around 7.5 liters came out (let it drain for an hour). i also checked the OLM before I reseted it. didn't budge. Was still at 16%. So now it's gonna sit till May, no starting it, cause everything I've read, that's the absolute worst thing to do. Better off just letting it sit.
I wait until June every year to get mine back on the road because that’s usually when they’ve finally swept up all the crap on the roads from winter. I’m going to check this time how much oil was burned as well. Forgot to do it last time. Curious because in the past I noticed occasional puffs of blue smoke on start up. I don’t bother putting fresh oil in before storage because typically I only put 500-800 km’s on the car each summer so it’s basically fresh anyway.
Funny how the OLM in the Mustang doesn’t tell you that you need an oil change after 12 months but in my Explorer it tells me every 6 months. I’m changing it in my Explorer toady and I’ve only put 2200 km’s on since last change.
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