***Urgent*** Check Clutch Line At Brake Master Cylinder

[jimmerheck]

Thanks. Sounds complicated. And special tools are required.
I think I'll pass. I'll put a stronger zip tie and hope for the best.

I pushed my line fully on and put on a heavy duty zip tie (one with a metal catch) and my line hasnt budged now in a few years.

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[Vlad Soare]

I just hope that the nipple is strong enough to withstand the force exerted by the overly stretched hose. A zip tie wouldn't be much help if the nipple itself broke.

 

[Elp_jc]

Replacing the hose will cause some air to get into the line.

The circuit really starts at the master cylinder, so replacing that line should not immediately add air into the circuit. And without any leaks, the master cylinder shouldn't need to draw any fluid from that line, but I wouldn't like any air in there either. The better question would be how to remove air from that line, since there wouldn't be any need to mess with the clutch at all. Maybe adding fluid with a syringe, and hitting the line with a finger nail to 'burp' it, then when full, re-attach it to the reservoir?

 

[Vlad Soare]

Maybe adding fluid with a syringe, and hitting the line with a finger nail to 'burp' it, then when full, re-attach it to the reservoir?

That sounds like a good idea.

 

[WD Pro]

Looks like RHD don’t escape this issue either ...

And I’m guessing it’s more tricky to get too - under the bulkhead brace inboard of the master cylinder

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[Vlad Soare]

I installed the Steeda improved line today.
It was a bit of a struggle, because the space is very tight. Tightening the clip at the firewall end was particularly difficult. The good news is, there's extremely little brake fluid spillage in the process. So little that no fresh fluid needs to be added - there's no perceivable change in the fluid level in the reservoir.
And the even better news is, I had to pull very hard at the OEM hose to take it off the reservoir's nipple. It took a lot of wiggling, pulling and swearing. So I don't think it would have ever come out of the nipple all by itself. I think the danger isn't actually as huge as it may seem at first glance.

 

[NGOT8R]

I still haven’t installed my upgraded line kit yet. Did you have to use a pair of long angled needle nose pliers to secure the hose clamps or were you able to just pinch them tight with your fingers?

 

[Vlad Soare]

Yes, a pair of long angled needle nose pliers would be ideal. Unfortunately I didn't have one, which made things more difficult. In the end, after rummaging through all my toolboxes I managed to find something else that worked, but if I had to do it again I would get those pliers first.
Pinching them tight with you fingers is out of the question. They take a lot of force. You can do just the first one or two clicks with your fingers, which is enough to make the clip stay in place until you bring the pliers.

 

[NGOT8R]

Copy that Vlad Soare. Thanks. I’ll have to get a pair of long needle nose pliers before I install mine.

 

[Elp_jc]

If that kit was less industrial looking (ha ha), I'd maybe consider it. But with the 2 zip-ties I put, the line is straight, and not going anywhere, so will leave it alone... unless I have an issue with it in the future.

 

[raptor17GT]

So after seeing what the reservoir nipple and inner rubber seal looks like in Post #13, I could see that my clutch fluid tube wasn't pushed on all the way. As determined by the photo in Post #13, when the tube is not pushed on all the way, the nipple flange end of the tube's inner rubber seal is not all the way over the end of the nipple. See photos of my car before and after attached below.

I tried pushing on the tube last night, but apparently not hard enough. When you push on the tube, put your other hand on the opposite side of the brake fluid reservoir to counter act the force on the tube so you don't put too much side load onto the brake fluid reservoir.

thread revival ! RHD MY17 29k miles
i did exactly same when trying to fix this but as soon as you hold the reservoir to steady the assembly, a simple push and the flexi pipe is pushed further up. Thanks again to all those who've linked to this and all that have attached pics, mine below

before

after

went for a spirited drive afterwards and the pipe had not slid back so think I'll leave as is without a cable tie - i'm less likely to break anything!

 

[GT Pony]

thread revival ! RHD MY17 29k miles
i did exactly same when trying to fix this but as soon as you hold the reservoir to steady the assembly, a simple push and the flexi pipe is pushed further up. Thanks again to all those who've linked to this and all that have attached pics, mine below

before

after

went for a spirited drive afterwards and the pipe had not slid back so think I'll leave as is without a cable tie - i'm less likely to break anything!

I check the hose position once and awhile to see if it ever moves, and it hasn't moved since I pushed it all the way on 4 years ago. I never put any cable tie on it either.

 

[Intrepid175]

I check the hose position once and awhile to see if it ever moves, and it hasn't moved since I pushed it all the way on 4 years ago. I never put any cable tie on it either.

You and me both!

 

[DrZed]

So a buddy I meet was telling me about this on my 2021 GT... and I was thinking, no way... pop my hood and CLICK mine was not plugged in. What gives with this? I see this post was started in 2017?!? 4 years? Was this an intentional design issue? I had some clutch fluid right beside the line on my master cylinder!

 

[GT Pony]

So a buddy I meet was telling me about this on my 2021 GT... and I was thinking, no way... pop my hood and CLICK mine was not plugged in. What gives with this? I see this post was started in 2017?!? 4 years? Was this an intentional design issue? I had some clutch fluid right beside the line on my master cylinder!

Seems to be mostly an assembly error at the factory. It wouldn't hurt if Ford made the line about a 1/2 inch longer.

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