UPR Plug Fail Cost 250.00 of Track Dust Plus Whole Day of Maintenance and Cleaning.

ice445

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The UPR one has the same thing. You have to use a flat head screwdriver to pull up the tab so it clears past the pan slot then you can turn it. When you screw it on, it snaps down in the slot and can't be moved without prying on it.

Unless this is an old design plug, I can't imagine what would cause it to come loose. It has the same exact locking mechanism as the stock plug, only difference is it's made of aluminum vs. plastic. Something else must have happened to the plug, maybe the locking tab was fatigued and failed allowing the plug to spin and pop out.
A metal plug with metal tabs locking behind the plastic ears on the oil pan sounds like a recipe for accelerated wear at the minimum, and chipping/damage at worst which may explain how it came off.

 

kz

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I order plugs here : https://www.amazon.com/Drain-F-150-...?keywords=ford+oil+plug&qid=1636458429&sr=8-4

(also have '17 F150, uses same plug as Mustang).

Problem I was trying to solve with metal plug was amount of oil coming out when it is pulled and mess it creates - since then I learned how to manage plastic plug to control oil flow.

Again - there are thousands of F150s with these plugs, they're fine and they're the product Ford supports and cares about 1000 times more than Mustangs (I got 4 letters about customer satisfaction programs extending warranty to 10 years if this little minor issue - that on Mustang would have been claimed as "it's supposed to be like this" - shows up).
 

CJJon

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I use a Ronin plug for ease of use. Way less of a mess for me. No more oil gusher.

It fits in very well and is well designed. I can't see how it could pop out if properly installed.
 

kz

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It fits in very well and is well designed. I can't see how it could pop out if properly installed.
Mine didn't pop out - it got turned open. Not sure if Ronin has a level, but if does, that's even more likely to happen than on the UPRs original plug.
 

Dana Pants

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I haven’t really thought about this, but spraying the plug with carb cleaner and applying some “amazing goop” to the plug tabs would be reversible and keep it in place between oil changes. I use amazing goop to solve so many problems like this.
 


CJJon

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Mine didn't pop out - it got turned open. Not sure if Ronin has a level, but if does, that's even more likely to happen than on the UPRs original plug.
Not sure what a level is...

It goes in very firmly and seats in very solid. The gold cap unscrews for oil change. However, even with the cap off oil will not flow. You have to thread in the nipple to start the flow.



1636462113828.png
 

Rapid Red

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Self locking or not, it is getting a secondary holding set up(safety wired) . It is one thing to have fluid on track and wad up your own crap, but when it causes others a bad day, I want to everything I can to make that less likely to happen. Once was enough. even if it was decades ago. I rather not have a repeat /

We need to do what each thinks is best. Use safety wire on bolts that secure the rotors to the front spindles .............. why because Wellwood designed it that way. So it surly has its purpose.

Off the top of my head. Trying to safety wire the drain plug on the 5.0. Will require a longer then usual run to find a anchor point .
Screen Shot 2021-11-09 at 7.44.35 AM.png
 

ICU812

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We need to do what each thinks is best. Use safety wire on bolts that secure the rotors to the front spindles .............. why because Wellwood designed it that way. So it surly has its purpose.

Off the top of my head. Trying to safety wire the drain plug on the 5.0. Will require a longer then usual run to find a anchor point .
Screen Shot 2021-11-09 at 7.44.35 AM.png
If we could only bond things to composits/plastics.
Then it be easy, peasy. ya I'm being sarcastic. been up 24 hours.
 

Cobra Jet

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These metal plugs try to solve a problem that doesn't exist in the first place. Way too many people seem to have this hesitancy about plastic components but they work just fine lol.

I'm glad your engine didn't get roasted from this.
^^^^ And you hit the nail on the head.... I often wonder if anyone ever thinks about what kind of testing went into such a small aftermarket component that protects a MUCH larger component and stands between what could be absolute catastrophic failure if that small component were to fail.

It's one thing to design a product that mimicks the original. - it's another when the original is an inferior part to begin with, that also went through rigorous testing standards that not only includes plugging the hole - but at many different temps, pressures, timed trials, extreme uses, how many times it can be R&R'd before failure, etc etc etc....

Some people are taking risks with these aftermarket oil plugs - when as stated by @ice445, there's absolutely nothing wrong with the original factory plugs - and they do the job and last as designed.

Take into consideration IF the OP had not pulled over soon enough - run that engine below the recommended fill and those bearings would be toast - let alone most likely a catastrophic engine failure that would not be warranted.

I don't know what the heck the hype is with these aftermarket oil plugs. First of all, no one sees a fancy oil plug design UNDER the car and second of all, do you really want to risk your engine just to have the same thing that JohnnySue hyped up on the Internet forums or latest Social Media BS?

One other thing too - just because the engine and its components look physically the same, there are always running production changes. Even minimalistic changes could mean a big difference between an aftermarket part not working as the prior factory model year part. Some aftermarket companies do not know or research changes and just change the product date ranges and keep the same SKU to match the most current model year...


OP is very lucky the engine didn't seize or throw a rod out the side at that speed and distance from the initial plug popping...
 

kz

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Not sure what a level is...

It goes in very firmly and seats in very solid. The gold cap unscrews for oil change. However, even with the cap off oil will not flow. You have to thread in the nipple to start the flow.
Lever :) My spelling sucks.
 

Rapid Red

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^^^^ And you hit the nail on the head.... I often wonder if anyone ever thinks about what kind of testing went into such a small aftermarket component that protects a MUCH larger component and stands between what could be absolute catastrophic failure if that small component were to fail.

It's one thing to design a product that mimicks the original. - it's another when the original is an inferior part to begin with, that also went through rigorous testing standards that not only includes plugging the hole - but at many different temps, pressures, timed trials, extreme uses, how many times it can be R&R'd before failure, etc etc etc....

Some people are taking risks with these aftermarket oil plugs - when as stated by @ice445, there's absolutely nothing wrong with the original factory plugs - and they do the job and last as designed.

Take into consideration IF the OP had not pulled over soon enough - run that engine below the recommended fill and those bearings would be toast - let alone most likely a catastrophic engine failure that would not be warranted.

I don't know what the heck the hype is with these aftermarket oil plugs. First of all, no one sees a fancy oil plug design UNDER the car and second of all, do you really want to risk your engine just to have the same thing that JohnnySue hyped up on the Internet forums or latest Social Media BS?

One other thing too - just because the engine and its components look physically the same, there are always running production changes. Even minimalistic changes could mean a big difference between an aftermarket part not working as the prior factory model year part. Some aftermarket companies do not know or research changes and just change the product date ranges and keep the same SKU to match the most current model year...


OP is very lucky the engine didn't seize or throw a rod out the side at that speed and distance from the initial plug popping...

Also Ford's, plastic drain plug is reinforced nylon, will not break down from heat cycling, become brittle .
 

EFI

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A metal plug with metal tabs locking behind the plastic ears on the oil pan sounds like a recipe for accelerated wear at the minimum, and chipping/damage at worst which may explain how it came off.
While I agree the 2 different materials might eventually (after years and years) lead to that, it's not as bad as it seems. The metal tabs are very thin, and the plastic ears that they go over on the pan are beefy in comparison. If you're careful taking the plug out and not ripping on it like a gorilla, there's going to be very little if any damage done to the plastic. The metal ears just glide over the plastic on and off.

Since I track my car often, I always do a visual check of the underneath before and after every track day (especially on the plug and oil filter) and also during oil changes. I haven't noticed any abnormal wear or scarring on the pan where the plug goes.
 

btcarmd

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We need to do what each thinks is best. Use safety wire on bolts that secure the rotors to the front spindles .............. why because Wellwood designed it that way. So it surly has its purpose.

Off the top of my head. Trying to safety wire the drain plug on the 5.0. Will require a longer then usual run to find a anchor point .
Screen Shot 2021-11-09 at 7.44.35 AM.png
Maybe you could wrap the yellow tabs with safety wire or wire tie to prevent any chance of spreading and releasing from tabs on pan. If your concerned.
 

Rapid Red

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Maybe you could wrap the yellow tabs with safety wire or wire tie to prevent any chance of spreading and releasing from tabs on pan. If your concerned.

Just asking, have you ever used safety wire before, bolt to bolt ?
 

btcarmd

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Just asking, have you ever used safety wire before, bolt to bolt ?
Only on cars that had it from factory. Mostly brake caliper bolts on some foreign cars.
 

 
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