UPR Catch Can Owners share your installs here.

[LightningBlue17]

Don't open the can

Has anyone had any problems with not being able to unscrew the can? I bought 2 of these, me and the wife, opened up and tried to disassemble. After a couple turns it started grinding and wanted to cross thread. I finally got one to pop open but the innards did not want to come out. I figure I'm doing something wrong if both of them are like this but the cross threading and all has me questioning it. So I haven't installed yet, UPR is closed, hoping someone will see this and chime in. Thanks.

The UPR guys can best answer this, but I had the same issue and was told you are not supposed to open the can. Nothing serviceable inside. All you need to do is drain contents from the bottom.

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[CompStang]

The UPR guys can best answer this, but I had the same issue and was told you are not supposed to open the can. Nothing serviceable inside. All you need to do is drain contents from the bottom.

Thanks for the reply. So I may guessing a wrench and some force to open the can on the bottom side? I gave a little tug it didn't budge and did not want to wrench it just incase

 

[CompStang]

OK I figured it out. Definitely helps if you watch the full video on here. Just installed it on mine and the wife's car. I'm hoping it ends up being more user friendly than it seems. I'm used to the unscrew a can and empty lol. Does look like a very nice unit though.

 

[UPRjoe]

UPR Catch Can Help

OK I figured it out. Definitely helps if you watch the full video on here. Just installed it on mine and the wife's car. I'm hoping it ends up being more user friendly than it seems. I'm used to the unscrew a can and empty lol. Does look like a very nice unit though.

What part numbers do you and your wife have? We use Loctite to seal all our catch cans now except for the small radiator mount cans that you remove the bottoms to drain. The 5028 cans all get unscrewed to drain and never need to be cranked too tight as they were designed just to be snugged to be easily drained.

The 5030 cans like the one you have pictured are not to be opened. If you open the 5030 catch cans they will lock up on the side fitting and destroy the internal diffuser assembly and strip the threads on the top. Internals have been designed so you never open them and they do not require any servicing more than just to be drained.

Once you open the 5030 you might damage the o-ring because everything is sealed shut.

PM before you go any further.

Joe

 

[CompStang]

What part numbers do you and your wife have? We use Loctite to seal all our catch cans now except for the small radiator mount cans that you remove the bottoms to drain. The 5028 cans all get unscrewed to drain and never need to be cranked too tight as they were designed just to be snugged to be easily drained.

The 5030 cans like the one you have pictured are not to be opened. If you open the 5030 catch cans they will lock up on the side fitting and destroy the internal diffuser assembly and strip the threads on the top. Internals have been designed so you never open them and they do not require any servicing more than just to be drained.

Once you open the 5030 you might damage the o-ring because everything is sealed shut.

PM before you go any further.

Joe

Sent you a pm. Guessing I might need new cans now?

 

[UPRjoe]

You should be fine, I replied to your PM. Our newer design put the side fitting in the way of removing the diffuser assembly and that is what the interference is when you try to disassemble the system. Definitely, let me know how much oil you collect each oil change and the differences in oil collection between you and your wife. BTW, Thank you for sharing.

Joe

 

[CompStang]

Sounds groovy, I'll get some pictures posted!

 

[aham23]

while this isnt rocket science i am a bit confused how the remote mount actually works with the supplied hardware. where and how exactly is the provided threaded screw with 4 nuts and two washers used? no instructions provided and none on the site for the remote mount (to the strut tower). thanks.

 

[CompStang]

while this isnt rocket science i am a bit confused how the remote mount actually works with the supplied hardware. where and how exactly is the provided threaded screw with 4 nuts and two washers used? no instructions provided and none on the site for the remote mount (to the strut tower). thanks.

Look at first post pictures, I believe there is also a Youtube video. But the screw puts the post onto the strut tower section. Then you have can with washer and bar. To tighten down that you use a washer and handle looking deal. i know not the best explanation. I am at work though and internet is crapping out. There should be a video on it but first post shows the pictures of where things are located. I hope it helps a little.

 

[UPRjoe]

The remote mount installation process is the stud goes in first and then a nut to lock it in place. Then you install the ground strap and the second nut locks the ground in place. Now you set the third nut for the desired height of the catch can while leaving enough space to drop the catch can on and being able to install the fourth nut to lock the catch can in place at the desired height. I've included the image and a link to the image so you can see it.

Joe

http://ep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-37354654005614/15-mustang-gt-plug-n-play-sc-remote-mount-4.png

 

[aham23]

^^^^ very helpful. however, i was a bit impatient. whats the point of sandwiching the ground between the two supplied nuts? why not stud, then nut to lock down the ground just like it was locked down from the factory (nut to car)? much thanks for that quick reply.

 

[aham23]

unfortunately the remote mount isnt going to work on my 16. the space is way too tight. i would not be able to remove the canister to empty it. i would have to take the entire catch can out. also, the normal mount position is no go for me. i have the Mishimoto Coolant tank and there is no room. the two lines on the back are in the way. sucks, but looks like i will be selling this. :(

 

[UPRjoe]

The reason to sandwich the ground is that it has more contact than against the painted surface. The correct kit we promote is the 5030-98 as it's much more accessible and has a much larger capacity and it mounts in a cooler area allowing the coalescing and condensing to have a much larger sweep in temperature. The 5030-98 can be emptied and reinstalled in a few minutes. The smaller 5028 is much better than the JLT catch can and offers almost twice the capacity and was a solution for JLT users to upgrade to a system that will protect their PCV system. As good as the 5028 is it does not compare to the 5030-98 system with the quick release mount. You can PM me any other questions on the systems or help.

Joe

 

[5.0_SD]

UPR guys...I just received the 5029-211 and I cannot figure out how and where this mounts. Also, I'm wondering if anything is missing...here is a picture of what all came in the box...no instructions as well. Could use some help here. You can also see the breather was damaged in shipping.

 

[UPRjoe]

UPR 2015-17 Mustang Plug n Play™ Breather Tank Installation Instructions - 5029-211

UPR guys...I just received the 5029-211 and I cannot figure out how and where this mounts. Also, I'm wondering if anything is missing...here is a picture of what all came in the box...no instructions as well. Could use some help here. You can also see the breather was damaged in shipping.

UPR 2015-17 Mustang Plug n Play™ Breather Tank Installation Instructions - 5029-211

**The Arrow on the Check Valve always faces away from the UPR Catch Can**

1. Firmly pull up on each side of the engine cover to lift it off for the installation

2. Now you will need to remove the radiator cover by using a small screwdriver to lift each push pin and the remove the female side of the push pin as well
( Keep a small box to put all the parts into so you don’t lose anything. )

3. You can now see the mounting location and remove the bolt or stud that is located there.
( Right above the plastic tab that locates the front bumper bracket. )

4. Take the mounting bracket and disconnect it from the UPR Plug n Play™ Breather tank and you can now install it in the location you just removed the factory bolt or stud from.

5. The bracket comes pre-assembled in the correct position and just needs the long bolt installed to be ready to mount the UPR Plug n Play™ Breather tank.
( Unclip the harness beneath the catch can to move it over and press it down for clearance.)

6. Remove the Passenger side PCV line at the valve cover and the front of the intake manifold.
( You slide the small clip on the connector to release it )

7. Now attach the UPR Plug n Play™ Breather Tank to the valve covers.
( You will need to route the Y around the back of the engine if you have the dual kit. )

8. Make sure all the connections are securely pushed on and tight. Re-install the engine cover by lining it up and then pressing down to snap it in place. Re-install the radiator cover.

9. You should check the UPR Catch Can every 500 to be able to determine the frequency you will need to check the can to be emptied. This will also let you know how much to add to your engine as you drain the oil your UPR Catch Can collects

NEVER RETURN OIL FROM THE CATCH CAN BACK INTO THE ENGINE

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