Upgrading Head Gasket & Studs Prior to Bigger Turbo?

[ice445]

I understand the cause for concern. Therefore I should probably remove the "Focus RS headgasket statement". The head gasket Purchased is indeed the new revised "factory head gasket for my engine. It just happens to share the same part number as the Focus. It seems to me that the Ford engineers redesigned the headgasket to accommodate both engines to avoid future mishaps and to add better sealing capabilities. My point; if one was to go to the dealer and ask for a head gasket, then that person would recieve the new superceded gasket that it now on my engine.

The simple answer to this question is, did your block have the little notches cut between the cylinder walls like previous 2.3 Mustang blocks? If so, you fucked yourself. You've set up exactly the same failure scenario as the RS situation, by creating a channel coolant can enter but not escape, which will cause boiling and early gasket failure. It works fine now, yeah, but I doubt it makes it past 20,000 miles.

If the little notches have been removed in later blocks and replaced by the single hole, then it makes sense both engines are using the same gasket now. Do you not remember OP? You seem very dedicated to convincing everyone but a simple picture of your block before the head gasket was laid would put this issue to bed.

Also it took me 8 seconds to find the correct head gasket on Tasca. According to my research, this fits up to 2019 engine blocks. 2020 may have finally had a change to where that RS gasket will fit, but any other engine before that? You need the correct one. https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-part...4JnQ9ZWNvYm9vc3QtcHJlbWl1bSZlPTItM2wtbDQtZ2Fz

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[DavidEcobeast]

The simple answer to this question is, did your block have the little notches cut between the cylinder walls like previous 2.3 Mustang blocks? If so, you fucked yourself. You've set up exactly the same failure scenario as the RS situation, by creating a channel coolant can enter but not escape, which will cause boiling and early gasket failure. It works fine now, yeah, but I doubt it makes it past 20,000 miles.

If the little notches have been removed in later blocks and replaced by the single hole, then it makes sense both engines are using the same gasket now. Do you not remember OP? You seem very dedicated to convincing everyone but a simple picture of your block before the head gasket was laid would put this issue to bed.

Also it took me 8 seconds to find the correct head gasket on Tasca. According to my research, this fits up to 2019 engine blocks. 2020 may have finally had a change to where that RS gasket will fit, but any other engine before that? You need the correct one. https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-part...4JnQ9ZWNvYm9vc3QtcHJlbWl1bSZlPTItM2wtbDQtZ2Fz

Is what it is I suppose. I am not going to tear it back dow. The engine is a running fine and not showing any symptoms.

BACK TO THE OP.
Sorry for the hijack and for any false information if posted.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

So this idea/topic is back fresh in my mind as my car threw a misfire cyl2 code and it may be losing a bit of coolant. 3mo and 3-4 track days on the NX2. Need to keep an eye on it to verify. Reset the code and it didn’t come back street driving. Will throw in fresh plugs for now as well but still really thinking that I should do a headgasket and CA625+ head studs even if I’m not losing coolant and the misfire doesn’t come back again. And if I am losing coolant then obviously need to do a headgasket and studs at the minimum. Seems like an insurance policy. Maybe it doesn’t work out but would almost rather spend a weekend and $600 doing this then $5k on a motor wondering if just a headgasket and studs would have saved me. Need to make up my mind.

 

[DavidEcobeast]

So this idea/topic is back fresh in my mind as my car threw a misfire cyl2 code and it may be losing a bit of coolant. 3mo and 3-4 track days on the NX2. Need to keep an eye on it to verify. Reset the code and it didn’t come back street driving. Will throw in fresh plugs for now as well but still really thinking that I should do a headgasket and CA625+ head studs even if I’m not losing coolant and the misfire doesn’t come back again. And if I am losing coolant then obviously need to do a headgasket and studs at the minimum. Seems like an insurance policy. Maybe it doesn’t work out but would almost rather spend a weekend and $600 doing this then $5k on a motor wondering if just a headgasket and studs would have saved me. Need to make up my mind.

Keep us posted. I recently sold my car to prepare for a 5.0 in the future. Can get one now, but we will wait. My engine was running great and yes, the headstuds abd head gasket IS a great insurance policy.
Follow the service manual and use Ford sealants and gasket makers.

The part numbers are in the manual.

I have will have a built block and head listed soon. I was planning on really pushing this platform, but after spending the money on the engine, head and planning on big turbo with fuel, and then trying to source fuel (octane) I threw in tbe towel. Figured my car was great as is and reliable for a good trade. Instead I sold it

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Thanks David. Good luck with the 5.0.

For the CA625+ studs, did you need to do any thread prep of the block (beyond making sure they're clean and debris free)?

 

[DavidEcobeast]

Built head. "THE ONE" New in the box listed soon.
PM if interested.

I will be posting it up later for a good deal.

 

[DavidEcobeast]

Thanks David. Good luck with the 5.0.

For the CA625+ studs, did you need to do any thread prep of the block (beyond making sure they're clean and debris free)?

I used a ARP thread chaser, long Q tips, brake clean and an air compressor to clean out the head bolt bosses. I used plastic razor blades on the deck surface with Brake clean and lint free rags. DO NOT TORQUE DOWN THE HEAD STUDS INTO BLOCK. HAND TIGHT ONLY! Torque the nuts in stages following the proper sequence. I used a brand new TORQUE wrench that was professionally calibrated.

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