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Edit: Now Just curious about my datalogs

DivineStrike

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Hey y'all ever since i've installed my 2018 IM and Steeda 114mm Open CAI the car has not idled well. Even dies on occasion. Granted I still am sending in datalogs to finalize the tune but its still the same issue, so I'm not sure if the further tuning will fix it or if something else is awry?

Now i isolated a few vacuum leaks, one around the MAF sensor, and two very small leaks on the CAI where the sound tube is capped off and where the cai goes into the silicone tube. I've since fixed the leak around the MAF and tightened the clamps on the other two (which mostly took care of them, positive pressure seems to make a very minute amount of smoke...not sure if that would really matter) anyhow correcting those leaks really didn't change too much for the idle. Going to do another smoke test tomorrow. Wanted to do it tonight but really don't feel like messing with it lol. Now i just hope to be able to attach the files


anyone know how I can attach them? lol says its incompatible to upload

seems zip files work. 2 datalogs loaded

loaded one as excel

There we go, edited out a couple items like speed, throttle position etc..

https://datazap.me/u/divinestrike/l...1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16&solo=4

Edit: Added Datalogs for Stock CAI...including a 4th gear pull

Curious to know what y'all see. MAF signal improved? anything significant/odd to look out for?
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DivineStrike

DivineStrike

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lets see if that works lol
 

codereddew

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Throwing no codes?

I would want to get things to where no smoke comes out when you do the test. Your clamp might be such that tightening it makes things worse. Some clamps go out of round, especially small clamps.

The MAF sensor faulty?
 
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DivineStrike

DivineStrike

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Can also upload logs to https://datazap.me/u which gives you a web interface to view it on
Oh ok cool, did the zips work or do you need a program to view them?

If itā€™s easier, Iā€™ll use that website for sure

looks like my logs are too large for that site
 
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DivineStrike

DivineStrike

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Throwing no codes?

I would want to get things to where no smoke comes out when you do the test. Your clamp might be such that tightening it makes things worse. Some clamps go out of round, especially small clamps.

The MAF sensor faulty?
No codes at the moment. Had a too lean on the base tune, but I think thatā€™s gone now with the update. And maybe the maf sensor is faulty. I donā€™t think I had any issues prior to the mods in terms of idle. Only thing I had was a misfire due to the cmcv shaft being sheared. But that doesnā€™t mean it hasnā€™t failed since then. Car sat for over a month without running due to waiting on all the parts so I could get the base tune. Manifold and stock "cai" was off the whole time
 
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markmurfie

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The idle in all three logs looks ok. I'm not thrilled about the MAF sensor signal. Stock intake would probably give you improved drivability.

It looks like you braked hard at 40MPH in the 1:1 gear, didn't downshift, and didn't clutch in until 550RPM or some other very low RPM that is under idle RPM, not giving the engine enough time to recover to idle properly. You literally stalled the car by how you drove it. when the engine does not stall you clutched in at 1000 rpm. Your tuner is probably face palming hard looking at this "issue".

"when I am cruising at 40mph in 4th gear and slam the brakes and don't clutch in until 5MPH the engine stalls"
"yeah you can't go 5mph in 4th gear"
 
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DivineStrike

DivineStrike

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The idle in all three logs looks ok. I'm not thrilled about the MAF sensor signal. Stock intake would probably give you improved drivability.

It looks like you braked hard at 40MPH in the 1:1 gear, didn't downshift, and didn't clutch in until 550RPM or some other very low RPM that is under idle RPM, not giving the engine enough time to recover to idle properly. You literally stalled the car by how you drove it. when the engine does not stall you clutched in at 1000 rpm. Your tuner is probably face palming hard looking at this "issue".
yea that was a part throttle in 5th gear. That 550 reading is at idle. It regularly drops to sub 600, even before I get moving. Dash indicated AF ratio jumps around a lot too. Low 13s to as high as 16.0.... Now I can't count out driver error in this case, as I wasn't looking at my gauges, and I'm pretty sure I did clutch in as I braked more. That was right before I was turning to park. And it died after most of the turn was complete. It is more unlikely that is was driver error than it was that the car just died. I had it die on me a couple times the day prior as well. And seeing as i've never stalled the vehicle coming to a stop (that I can recall anyhow lol over the past 6 years of ownership), it is unlikely I did it 3 times in two days, 1 time sure šŸ˜…. Granted the first two times were on the base tune not this updated tune.

Looking at the math, I braked from 60 to 40 in 3.5 seconds, the 40 to 20 (roughly 1k rpms) in 2 seconds. some online calculator (if accurate) puts that at about 100m traveled total in that time frame and the last 20mph of that distance i traveled about 26 m, so slightly more braking than the first. not really a hard brake at all. So I don't really think that is the case during this instance but like I said I can't count it out either, As I don't remember the exact moment I clutched in, but still unlikely it was near idle. Either way its happened before, so I figured the circumstances were the same.

Any who lol, not really worried about that, I more just saw it as extra data to maybe help figure out the rough idle. I'm sure figuring out the rough idle will solve any of those issues. It could just be steeda's intake, but seeing as they promote it as better for drivability and easier tuning, I would hope that's not the case. Guess we'll see šŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø

Appreciate you looking into the logs though. What is maf freq anyhow?

Edit: looking at the log I clutched in at 800 to 950 or so rpm. Because calculating speed and rpm based on gear ratio... That's where the RPM/MPH disparity increases drastically. At 12.21 mph I should have been at 553 rpm, data log shows 728.75 at that speed. Now entirely possible the calculators aren't precise or there is a significant delay in between rpm and speed indication reaching the computer (car should be calculating speed based off stock tires, as I haven't asked to change it in the tune, that said it's a difference of 17 rpm) and I clutched in later than that. Either way it definitely does look like I clutched in rather late, even if before Idle it could have influenced the shutoff.
 
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DivineStrike

DivineStrike

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Loaded two more datalogs if someone wants to take a look at them. Idle is much improved after changing to the OEM tube and I isolated the one leftover smoke leak coming from one of the oil separator PCV lines. Didn't seem to make a difference that I could notice.

Idle is however still not perfect. While the AF ratio doesn't search anywhere near as much, when coming to a stop it still wants to drop to around the 550 (maybe even a hair less sometimes) rpm range before coming back up and mostly stabilizing.
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