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Track Time Limited due to High CHT

GTP

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What I don't get is the Diff in our cars is not exactly an expensive part even if it fail ones a few seasons it might be cheaper than doing all of the cooling around it to make it fail few seasons latter anyway ? Besides spinning in a barrier what is the risk of a diff failure ?
We're not trying to prevent failure. We're trying to prevent Limp Mode, which is the only thing less fun than an understeering car on track day.
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bnightstar

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We're not trying to prevent failure. We're getting to prevent Limp Mode, which is the only thing less fun than an understeering car on track day.
That's fair. I just didn't ever seen that issue at my end but I do have track-loc and not Torsen as a rear end and I'm running stock power with 3.55 rear.
 

TeeLew

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We're not trying to prevent failure. We're trying to prevent Limp Mode, which is the only thing less fun than an understeering car on track day.

Then unplug the sensor and be done with it.

From my end, it's really inconvenient to have large failures at the track. I try to avoid that. Keeping the rear end somewhat reasonable on temp is kinda part of it. Not that it absolutely would fail, just that the potential is high.
 

NeverSatisfied

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What I don't get is the Diff in our cars is not exactly an expensive part even if it fail ones a few seasons it might be cheaper than doing all of the cooling around it to make it fail few seasons latter anyway ? Besides spinning in a barrier what is the risk of a diff failure ?
Having installed a diff cooler setup. It's easier than installing a finned cover. Get a pump, cooler fan combo, some AN hose and fittings, and drag some power to the rear with a switched relay in the car. Plumb it to the drain and fill ports on your stock cover.
 

TeeLew

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Having installed a diff cooler setup. It's easier than installing a finned cover.
In my case, I'm changing the entire assembly, so it's not. In most cases, I think it's not necessarily less work, but different work.

If you're a high power car, you probably have no choice but a pump/cooler option. I really like the simplicity of the cover, though. It's an elegant solution to the problem and it looks cool.

In the end, whatever butter's your bread...
 

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ihasnostang

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Doesn’t MMR make a similar cover? Or do you have separate opinions on it ?
my post in the mmr section got deleted for pointing out possible flaws with increasing the oil capacity which can increase the amount of work put into the oil if the fill line is higher, and also having the flat internal face instead of a contoured one around the ring gear. See gale banks diff cover 🤷‍♂️
 

TeeLew

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my post in the mmr section got deleted for pointing out possible flaws with increasing the oil capacity which can increase the amount of work put into the oil if the fill line is higher, and also having the flat internal face instead of a contoured one around the ring gear. See gale banks diff cover 🤷‍♂️
That's a very real thing as well.
 

nbjeeptj

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This was my thinking all along, and so far it has not been an issue. I got a 3:73 diff from a PP car on ebay for less money than the parts to add diff cooler, so I went with the, will replace it if it fails approach. Since my car is a base model it did not have the temp sensor in the diff so my computer does not know how hot the diff is, and it does not put me in limp mode. After 6000 miles of track use it has been fine. I do stay on top of oil changes in it since it is known to get so hot, but so far so good. I have also read a lot of threads on this issue and cant recall anyone saying they have had a failure of a rear end. I am not suggesting that someone not put a cooler on the diff if they want that extra piece of mind I am just reporting my findings and have had success without it. Even thou it probably don't weigh much, I also did not want the extra weight that comes with the pump, cooler, fan, lines, extra oil.
 

slowdown

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Initial impressions of upgrade to Mishimoto Radiator and Oil Cooler (dH2O, Amsoil Dominator, and 5% coolant) is........

Waste of time an money

Literally ZERO drop in running temps

I suppose the next thing is to pull the AC condenser and see if the added airflow helps (I never use the AC anyway). After that maybe fan upgrade or pusher fan.
 

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Initial impressions of upgrade to Mishimoto Radiator and Oil Cooler (dH2O, Amsoil Dominator, and 5% coolant) is........

Waste of time an money

Literally ZERO drop in running temps

I suppose the next thing is to pull the AC condenser and see if the added airflow helps (I never use the AC anyway). After that maybe fan upgrade or pusher fan.
That doesn't sound right. :explode:

Dumb question: Zero drop in temps while on track right?
 

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slowdown

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That doesn't sound right. :explode:

Dumb question: Zero drop in temps while on track right?
Nope just driving the back roads. 208 degrees on an 82 degree day. Not pushing the car really that hard.
Bummed.

I’m getting all sorts of feedback from people. One dude says wrap my headers, another says maybe my timing is too advanced on my tune.

I’m inclined to get more air to the radiator so leaning in the direction of pulling out the unit in front of the radiator
 

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Nope just driving the back roads. 208 degrees on an 82 degree day. Not pushing the car really that hard.
Bummed.

I’m getting all sorts of feedback from people. One dude says wrap my headers, another says maybe my timing is too advanced on my tune.

I’m inclined to get more air to the radiator so leaning in the direction of pulling out the unit in front of the radiator
Isn’t there a thermostat in the sandwich plate? Is the 208 CHT or Oil temp? If CHT I would think you are more than okay and won’t know for sure until you go on track. If it holds at 208 then I would think that it’s working.
 

slowdown

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Isn’t there a thermostat in the sandwich plate? Is the 208 CHT or Oil temp? If CHT I would think you are more than okay and won’t know for sure until you go on track. If it holds at 208 then I would think that it’s working.
208 is CHT and yeah I really need to see how it goes at the track. I’ve been over 220 before on a 92 degree day and the car has been fine.

I was hoping I’d see some noticeable decrease and have not.
 

Biggsy

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208 is CHT and yeah I really need to see how it goes at the track. I’ve been over 220 before on a 92 degree day and the car has been fine.

I was hoping I’d see some noticeable decrease and have not.
Yea I think if it holds there then it’s a success. But as you know it’s on the smaller end size wise so the expectation you had would probably fall in the line of the 948 cooler.
 

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Initial impressions of upgrade to Mishimoto Radiator and Oil Cooler (dH2O, Amsoil Dominator, and 5% coolant) is........

Waste of time an money

Literally ZERO drop in running temps

I suppose the next thing is to pull the AC condenser and see if the added airflow helps (I never use the AC anyway). After that maybe fan upgrade or pusher fan.
Maybe a dumb question, but do you have radiator ducting already done? If not, a lot of air is going around the radiator instead of passing through it, so it doesn't matter how big it is. I have both in place (DeWitts rad and well sealed radiator area), and my cruising CHT's don't go above 185F when car is moving.
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