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Track Time Limited due to High CHT

NeverSatisfied

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Thanks Flyhalf

The shop wants me to change it up and go with Water Wetter and a higher water % when we do the swap so that's probably going to happen.

I cannot imagine the oil cooler isn't that great. It adds a quart of oil and should definitely help cool the oil but I suppose I'll see. I bought it so It's getting installed.
One last warning—It’s not big enough. Send it back, fab your own. There is no turn key solution to this unfortunately.
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Flyhalf

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Thanks Flyhalf

The shop wants me to change it up and go with Water Wetter and a higher water % when we do the swap so that's probably going to happen.

I cannot imagine the oil cooler isn't that great. It adds a quart of oil and should definitely help cool the oil but I suppose I'll see. I bought it so It's getting installed.
I tried them all.
It works for sure better than OEM. But depending on speeds,might not be enough sooner than later.
but. There is a but...
The only way to let it work is to duct and box at least the radiator. Other wise the air will tend to go around to the lower resistance areas.
U need to be sure that not only u have a cooler but that the air will pass through it.
 

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I can't figure out why some tracks cause temps to climb? Seems to defy logic. PittRace I can flog it no problem. Nelsons, I'll see some of the highest temps of any northeast track. I'd think, the higher the speed, the lower the temps. However, it's like the longer the sustained near/at 100% throttle in 3rd and 4th, the higher the temps for me.
Ahh. Okay that makes sense
 

tosha

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I have just finished the upgrade to DeWitts pro series radiator along with 170F thermostat and I cannot get this bloody thing warm enough on the street 🤦‍♂️. With ambients around 65F, my CHT does not go above 185F unless I'm just standing. This rad is a beast, can't imagine what HP version would do. Will be testing it on track next week, but not sure what to do with street driving. Thoughts on this guys? Move back to stock 180F thermostat? Make some shutters for the radiator? Really don't want to go with the latter one.
 

NeverSatisfied

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I have just finished the upgrade to DeWitts pro series radiator along with 170F thermostat and I cannot get this bloody thing warm enough on the street 🤦‍♂️. With ambients around 65F, my CHT does not go above 185F unless I'm just standing. This rad is a beast, can't imagine what HP version would do. Will be testing it on track next week, but not sure what to do with street driving. Thoughts on this guys? Move back to stock 180F thermostat? Make some shutters for the radiator? Really don't want to go with the latter one.
Not much different running stock t-stat. I had plans of block off plates, etc, but instead I just change my oil more frequently with Kirkland's finest 5-30.
 

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Ewheels

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I have just finished the upgrade to DeWitts pro series radiator along with 170F thermostat and I cannot get this bloody thing warm enough on the street 🤦‍♂️. With ambients around 65F, my CHT does not go above 185F unless I'm just standing. This rad is a beast, can't imagine what HP version would do. Will be testing it on track next week, but not sure what to do with street driving. Thoughts on this guys? Move back to stock 180F thermostat? Make some shutters for the radiator? Really don't want to go with the latter one.
@Scootsmcgreggor runs a Setrab 948 and has the same problem on the streets. Will never get up to temperature.
He made a block-off plate that he runs on the streets and then removes it for track use.

The oem thermostat should help too. Allow the temps to get hotter before opening up the radiator.
Personally, I've never thought lower temp thermostats help for track use. Once at track temps, the thermostat is always open anyway. Whether it opens at 170 or 190, it'll be open and stay open by your first hot lap regardless.
 

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Indeed a grill block off plate helped wonders. Zip ties on in 1min. I have done the upper grill so far. I also put a small bypass hole only in front of the rad to give it a little more airflow and keep oil cooler without any flow to fine tune.



And I’m even adding more cooling now and will see if I end up needing a lower grill block off for the street too.

I thought all my track cooling was going to be sufficient for drifting but was wrong. Makes sense though as I’m now bouncing off rev limiter for an extended period of time at much lower speeds and incoming air is no longer coming into the grill straight on.

Amazing how much heat these coyotes make. Guys in corvettes drifting no problems with 1/3 the cooling I have.
 

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Indeed a grill block off plate helped wonders. Zip ties on in 1min. I have done the upper grill so far. I also put a small bypass hole only in front of the rad to give it a little more airflow and keep oil cooler without any flow to fine tune.
Do you have some pictures of this by any chance?
 

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Oil temps were good but CHT a bit too high so cut a hole offset to just hit the rad.
 

tosha

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Personally, I've never thought lower temp thermostats help for track use. Once at track temps, the thermostat is always open anyway. Whether it opens at 170 or 190, it'll be open and stay open by your first hot lap regardless.
Yeah, I have regrets now 😄 . I installed it for "while I'm already there" reason only. At least it won't be hard to revert it.
 

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tosha

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Anything terribly wrong with doing something like this as a block off plate? :crazy:
20230525_100714.jpg
 

Scootsmcgreggor

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Personally, I've never thought lower temp thermostats help for track use. Once at track temps, the thermostat is always open anyway. Whether it opens at 170 or 190, it'll be open and stay open by your first hot lap regardless.
Well it could help recovery time as flow is greater at the same temps. I saw another thread where a 170* tstat was fully open at 205. So a 190* must be a fair bit higher. So I imagine it could help even on track.
 

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Well it could help recovery time as flow is greater at the same temps. I saw another thread where a 170* tstat was fully open at 205. So a 190* must be a fair bit higher. So I imagine it could help even on track.
Didn't know that...that would definitely be a good argument in favor of a 170 tstat.
Lol, the more you know
 

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@Scootsmcgreggor The oem thermostat should help too. Allow the temps to get hotter before opening up the radiator.
Personally, I've never thought lower temp thermostats help for track use. Once at track temps, the thermostat is always open anyway. Whether it opens at 170 or 190, it'll be open and stay open by your first hot lap regardless.
When these engines are used in pro racing, the operating temp is 75-80*C.
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