Track Time Limited due to High CHT

[GTP]

Also I feel like I’ve asked this before, for those of you with oil coolers, where do you measure the oil pressure?

I am going to replace the GT350 pressure/temp gauges with actual gauges.

I assume you mean oil temperature? I drilled/tapped a hole in the side of my Setrab sandwich plate for future use for an oil temp sensor. Did that during my original oil cooler build.

Setrab has a new sandwich plate that comes with the side port hole. But it will only fit -10AN fittings, although their own 22mm/-12AN/90deg adapters might fit the room available.

I am considering a Glowshift oil temp gauge (new or old version) to install in my left-most dash vent.
But I don't care for the look (compared to your idea of replacing both small center gauges).
And it requires pulling the dash (and risking future rattles).
And the supplied wiring harness is too short (and so requires patching in an extension).

Your idea of replacing both center gauges will run you ~$300.

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[Biggsy]

I assume you mean oil temperature? I drilled/tapped a hole in the side of my Setrab sandwich plate for future use for an oil temp sensor. Did that during my original oil cooler build.

Setrab has a new sandwich plate that comes with the side port hole. But it will only fit -10AN fittings, although their own 22mm/-12AN/90deg adapters might fit the room available.

I am considering a Glowshift oil temp gauge (new or old version) to install in my left-most dash vent.
But I don't care for the look (compared to your idea of replacing both small center gauges).
And it requires pulling the dash (and risking future rattles).
And the supplied wiring harness is too short (and so requires patching in an extension).

Your idea of replacing both center gauges will run you ~$300.

No. I am referring to oil pressure. Isn’t the Oil pressure on the OEM gauge calculated instead of actual? I would like to take actual oil pressure readings if possible. I know I can connect a tee to the OEM sending unit on the block but I rather not touch that. I read that the sandwich adapter is a possibility but not sure of accuracy.

To replace the center gauges is actually like $60 lol. Both Aeroforce and Glowshift make an adapter so you can fit 52mm aftermarket gauges there. Adapter + cost of gauges is way less than $300. The harness is also very long (forgot length but more than 10ft) so it’ll reach.

 

[Biggsy]

It’s not really about look for me. It’s just why have two gauges that are doing the same thing ? But I guess you can say that’s for looks and it allows you to compare actual from calculated.

 

[GTP]

No. I am referring to oil pressure. Isn’t the Oil pressure on the OEM gauge calculated instead of actual? I would like to take actual oil pressure readings if possible. I know I can connect a tee to the OEM sending unit on the block but I rather not touch that. I read that the sandwich adapter is a possibility but not sure of accuracy.

To replace the center gauges is actually like $60 lol. Both Aeroforce and Glowshift make an adapter so you can fit 52mm aftermarket gauges there. Adapter + cost of gauges is way less than $300. The harness is also very long (forgot length but more than 10ft) so it’ll reach.

I believe OEM oil pressure is actual. Only the oil temp is calculated.

Mishi's sandwich plate comes with 2 ports, IIRC. So you can add temp and pressure there. If I were to do mine over again, I'd either use the new Setrab plate or Mishi plate, and switch to -10AN lines instead of -12AN.

Without researching, it seems as though you can use the OEM pressure sensor with an aftermarket gauge? Perhaps the new gauge comes with the sensor.

I'd like to know where you can source both gauges for $60! Yes, I knew about the adapter ring.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Did you remove OEM oil cooler?

yes all gone. I’m running the biggest series 6 setrab cooler and it’s still marginal. I started with a 25 row. The right way is the biggest series 9—it’s about the same size as the condenser!

The oil and coolant heat rejection the coyote generates from 10+ minutes of track time is staggering.

 

[Biggsy]

I believe OEM oil pressure is actual. Only the oil temp is calculated.

Mishi's sandwich plate comes with 2 ports, IIRC. So you can add temp and pressure there. If I were to do mine over again, I'd either use the new Setrab plate or Mishi plate, and switch to -10AN lines instead of -12AN.

Without researching, it seems as though you can use the OEM pressure sensor with an aftermarket gauge? Perhaps the new gauge comes with the sensor.

I'd like to know where you can source both gauges for $60! Yes, I knew about the adapter ring.

Sorry, I meant $60 in addition to what you are doing by adding a gauge and yes i know my idea involves two of them. If pressure is actual then I will just leave it be and add a temp gauge or connect to my RaceCapture

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Also I feel like I’ve asked this before, for those of you with oil coolers, where do you measure the oil pressure?

I am going to replace the GT350 pressure/temp gauges with actual gauges.

yes I do

 

[Biggsy]

yes I do

Yes,I do remember I asked you some point before. Where did you tap into for pressure?

yes all gone. I’m running the biggest series 6 setrab cooler and it’s still marginal. I started with a 25 row. The right way is the biggest series 9—it’s about the same size as the condenser!

The oil and coolant heat rejection the coyote generates from 10+ minutes of track time is staggering.

That’s the 960 right? Or bigger?

 

[NeverSatisfied]

I believe OEM oil pressure is actual. Only the oil temp is calculated.

Mishi's sandwich plate comes with 2 ports, IIRC. So you can add temp and pressure there. If I were to do mine over again, I'd either use the new Setrab plate or Mishi plate, and switch to -10AN lines instead of -12AN.

Without researching, it seems as though you can use the OEM pressure sensor with an aftermarket gauge? Perhaps the new gauge comes with the sensor.

I'd like to know where you can source both gauges for $60! Yes, I knew about the adapter ring.

Unless something has changed I have a variety of mishi and setrab/susa plates I've accumulated. the Mishi plate has notably smaller female fittings than the Setrab--as in they are restrictive for even -10AN.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Yes,I do remember I asked you some point before. Where did you tap into for pressure?



That’s the 960 right? Or bigger?

I stacked the plates--> Susa Spacer w/ 2 ports // Susa thermstat cooler // Oil filter. I don't like it in theory, but a year later, 20K miles and lots of track days it's still holding up.

The only way to go in my opinion is the 948. I run the 6series 50 and it just barely gets the job done. But that is running HARD at tracks like Road Atlanta at 90-95 ambient.

 

[Biggsy]

I stacked the plates--> Susa Spacer w/ 2 ports // Susa thermstat cooler // Oil filter. I don't like it in theory, but a year later, 20K miles and lots of track days it's still holding up.

The only way to go in my opinion is the 948. I run the 960 and it just barely gets the job done. But that is running HARD at tracks like Road Atlanta at 90-95 ambient.

Got it. Okay then. I plan to go with vibrant performance thermostat plate. It has 2 ports so I’m covered there.

I guess Summit Point and NJMP lightning don’t require much of the car or I’m very very slow lol

 

[Flyhalf]

I'm about to do a Mishimoto Radiator, upgraded plumbing, and Mishimoto 10 row front mounted oil cooler and plumbing upgrade in early June. I can report back on performance.

I haven't been using water wetter or other additives and would prefer to cool the car without additives even though you hear both sides of the coin about the additives. I'd rather cool the car with air than chemicals.

The radiator is great.
The oil cooler is not that great.
Water wetter increase radiator performance.
Also remember especially if it is not that cold where u are.. water is the best coolant.
I run since 4 years (never changed ) 95% water.
water wetter and a touch of coolant to keepi lubricated.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Got it. Okay then. I plan to go with vibrant performance thermostat plate. It has 2 ports so I’m covered there.

I guess Summit Point and NJMP lightning don’t require much of the car or I’m very very slow lol

I can't figure out why some tracks cause temps to climb? Seems to defy logic. PittRace I can flog it no problem. Nelsons, I'll see some of the highest temps of any northeast track. I'd think, the higher the speed, the lower the temps. However, it's like the longer the sustained near/at 100% throttle in 3rd and 4th, the higher the temps for me.

 

[Flyhalf]

I can't figure out why some tracks cause temps to climb? Seems to defy logic. PittRace I can flog it no problem. Nelsons, I'll see some of the highest temps of any northeast track. I'd think, the higher the speed, the lower the temps. However, it's like the longer the sustained near/at 100% throttle in 3rd and 4th, the higher the temps for me.

Multi factors.
Ambient temps.
Time in full throttle. Start and stop tracks vs more linear flow. Personal speed (some tracks we.are faster) Traffic. Etc.

A note. That is WHY THE DYNO HOOD MUST BE OPEN to see real numbers.
We trying to simulate 170mph energy and heat generated. Without 170mph air flow.

 

[slowdown]

The radiator is great.
The oil cooler is not that great.
Water wetter increase radiator performance.
Also remember especially if it is not that cold where u are.. water is the best coolant.
I run since 4 years (never changed ) 95% water.
water wetter and a touch of coolant to keepi lubricated.

Thanks Flyhalf

The shop wants me to change it up and go with Water Wetter and a higher water % when we do the swap so that's probably going to happen.

I cannot imagine the oil cooler isn't that great. It adds a quart of oil and should definitely help cool the oil but I suppose I'll see. I bought it so It's getting installed.

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