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Track Time Limited due to High CHT

TX-2019-Black_GT

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I keep seeing the images posted on here in various threads of the above GT500 electric fan. But what I don’t see or can’t find are the specs on it.

Does anyone know what the CFM (cubic feet per minute) is of that fan - and is the CFM based on the high or low speed?

CFM’s are also key to keeping any rad core cool. The higher the CFM, the cooler you can keep the rad core.

The other important thing with any electric fan shroud is that a high quality fan will have the integrated “flaps” as seen on the GT500 shroud. Those flaps allow air pass through at certain speeds to reduce the pressure around the system.

Just as an example, on my 94 Cobra I have the SPAL dual 11” fan setup, where the shroud also has integrated flaps. This fan is rated at 2720 CFM (some specs show 2780), which is more than enough for a street application. I also have wired it into a aftermarket fan controller (but tapped into factory harnesses so it operates exactly as the stock unit did), but when the fans do come on, I also wired it so they come on at “high speed” even though the unit can do the gradient low to high operation.

I am very interested in the GT500 fan but am very curious as to it’s specs - can anyone get the CFM of that unit?

If some are having cooling difficulties, despite upgrading other components, changing t-stat, etc., look into upgrading the electric fan and compare CFM ratings, higher CFM is best and it may help.
Regarding fans, CFM, etc. , I just ran some simple, and correct, calculations. The radiator is 20x25 inches (GT and PP, but PP is thicker). 11 MPH = 3400 CFM. 50 MPH = 15000 CFM. This assumes the air going through the entire radiator at the speeds mentioned, which is not perfect, but it clearly puts the CFM delivered by a fan vs. that due to driving speed into perspective.

So everyone that said fans are no help on the track, at speed, is right!
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tosha

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Regarding fans, CFM, etc. , I just ran some simple, and correct, calculations. The radiator is 20x25 inches (GT and PP, but PP is thicker). 11 MPH = 3400 CFM. 50 MPH = 15000 CFM. This assumes the air going through the entire radiator at the speeds mentioned, which is not perfect, but it clearly puts the CFM delivered by a fan vs. that due to driving speed into perspective.

So everyone that said fans are no help on the track, at speed, is right!
Purely visually, GT500 fan creates much less restriction for airflow at speed compared to GT fans and shroud. Otherwise yes, it's a known fact that at high speeds fans are useless.
 

NeverSatisfied

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Purely visually, GT500 fan creates much less restriction for airflow at speed compared to GT fans and shroud. Otherwise yes, it's a known fact that at high speeds fans are useless.
I just hacked the crap out of my fan shroud for a similar effect.

Unless your having idle/low speed cooling issues, I can’t imagine it’s worth switching?
 

tosha

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I just hacked the crap out of my fan shroud for a similar effect.

Unless your having idle/low speed cooling issues, I can’t imagine it’s worth switching?
Not saying it's worth switching, just saying that it's a better design, at least visually :).

Though for me it's important to have adequate cooling in hot summer traffic conditions, so I'm not touching it so far.
 

Ewheels

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I just hacked the crap out of my fan shroud for a similar effect.

Unless your having idle/low speed cooling issues, I can’t imagine it’s worth switching?
Apologies for being lazy and not wanting to read through the old posts in this thread....BUT....what were the temp benefits on track from hacking up the oem fan shroud and what were the negatives on temp in city driving?

Mine sees very few street miles anymore but I'd hate to overheat the one day I do get stuck in traffic.
 

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NeverSatisfied

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Apologies for being lazy and not wanting to read through the old posts in this thread....BUT....what were the temp benefits on track from hacking up the oem fan shroud and what were the negatives on temp in city driving?

Mine sees very few street miles anymore but I'd hate to overheat the one day I do get stuck in traffic.
Lots of variables in my setup to give an exact answer on improvement. If the inlet ducting isn’t boxed in well it probably won’t help much.

I’ll creep up to 220cht in bumper to bumper upper 90s with ac on. But I’ve added gastet material so the fans pull air through rad, race lovers, Mishi rad, water wetter and distilled, big ass oil cooler, etc…

with no silver bullet to keep the cars out of derate, it’s just a lot of little things stacked up to get there.
 
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67Fast_V

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Apologies for being lazy and not wanting to read through the old posts in this thread....BUT....what were the temp benefits on track from hacking up the oem fan shroud and what were the negatives on temp in city driving?

Mine sees very few street miles anymore but I'd hate to overheat the one day I do get stuck in traffic.
Talk about late in the game. Sorry to just respond, Ewheels. Lost track of this thread, as I have been distracted and haven't had a chance to prove out my final cooling mod on the track.

On your question, the fan shroud resistance is not a big player. It increased flow through the radiator about 5-6% from memory ... w/ a ~50% sealed system, TracSpec hood vent, and stock grille. So this is roughly 2 deg F CHT benefit on the track. Not a big player, but I will take it. However with your set-up, where your grille is almost wide open, the fan shroud resistance will play a bigger role. So maybe 1-2 deg more benefit, I suspect. But would have to model that geometry to be sure. Still small, though.

On the street driving, I have run a max of 208F stuck in traffic in FL. It's definitely warmer than w/ stock fan shroud. But of course it's fine, seeing that 235F+ is my experience on the track. So my street driving is not as bad as NeverSatisfied but as he mentioned, he has other stuff, I don't have. Maybe an influence there. Note that as soon as the car starts moving, the temps drop like a rock ... back down to ~185F within 1-2 mins. And also, I run with the AC on all the time cus need the fan running.

If you want to see how I modified the shroud geometry, I posted photo's a while back, maybe somewhere around #200-300 post. Good Luck.
 

ihasnostang

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what did i learn in the debate about fans at speed, nothing. i thought about setting cruise and then using forscan to activate the HFC

20230408_163415.jpg


vlcsnap-2023-04-10-19h55m23s303.png
 
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Plimmer

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The AC heat exchanger that sits in front of the radiator should be closely inspected as a culprit causing cooling issues.

A fellow mustang owner with a higher mileage car was having issues with cooling until he noticed that the AC heat exchanger was in poor shape and preventing good airflow through it.

I had a look at mine and noticed that after many track days, many fins are bent and the design seems to capture more track grit than the radiator. Currently debating just pulling it out and ditching AC
 

Performance nut

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The AC heat exchanger that sits in front of the radiator should be closely inspected as a culprit causing cooling issues.

A fellow mustang owner with a higher mileage car was having issues with cooling until he noticed that the AC heat exchanger was in poor shape and preventing good airflow through it.

I had a look at mine and noticed that after many track days, many fins are bent and the design seems to capture more track grit than the radiator. Currently debating just pulling it out and ditching AC
Don't do it Rob! I did that to a car I tracked and regretted it come summer. I drove it to and from track as well as stated in the car between stages. Never realized how hot a car got until that summer 😂
 

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Egparson202

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Don't do it Rob! I did that to a car I tracked and regretted it come summer. I drove it to and from track as well as stated in the car between stages. Never realized how hot a car got until that summer 😂

Dude’s right! Keep the AC unless you’re towing.
 

NeverSatisfied

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Dude’s right! Keep the AC unless you’re towing.
1000% I would sell my mustang and go get a dedicated race car before I pulled AC even if driving to/from track only.
 

nbjeeptj

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1000% I would sell my mustang and go get a dedicated race car before I pulled AC even if driving to/from track only.
Or you could go with this theory and make your current car a dedicated race car. I pulled mine and added the Watson racing radiator close out ducting with big oil cooler and I have not had the first issue with heat since. Having said that I don't drive this car on the street hardly at all anymore.

I just thought that was funny about sell this to buy one that someone has done the same thing to. I said the same thing over and over about how my car was too nice to turn it into a full race car, but the cost difference to sell sell mine and buy one already turned race car was similar money, so I decided to turn mine into dedicated Time trial / track car, for now then probably on to wheel to wheel car in the next few years.

Mine started off life as a base GT so the impact was a lot different than someone making that decision on a PP2 premium, GT350, or some other higher priced option.
 

NeverSatisfied

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Or you could go with this theory and make your current car a dedicated race car. I pulled mine and added the Watson racing radiator close out ducting with big oil cooler and I have not had the first issue with heat since. Having said that I don't drive this car on the street hardly at all anymore.

I just thought that was funny about sell this to buy one that someone has done the same thing to. I said the same thing over and over about how my car was too nice to turn it into a full race car, but the cost difference to sell sell mine and buy one already turned race car was similar money, so I decided to turn mine into dedicated Time trial / track car, for now then probably on to wheel to wheel car in the next few years.

Mine started off life as a base GT so the impact was a lot different than someone making that decision on a PP2 premium, GT350, or some other higher priced option.
now we’re into a philosophical and budget discussion…

I only track my mustang because at this stage of life given my Financial and time budget, a dual duty “cool” car with a warranty makes sense to me

I would never choose an s550 as a dedicated track car. In my opinion once you go full track car, the car becomes a utensil. An s550 on track is like doing microsurgery with a machete. And eats $450 tires

When I said I’d buy Another car, I meant a built K24 swapped Miata with aero, cage, etc on 275 Hoosiers that would do circles around my s550 for a fraction of the cost.
 

EFI

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I meant a built K24 swapped Miata with aero, cage, etc on 275 Hoosiers that would do circles around my s550 for a fraction of the cost.
A built, caged Coyote/LS swapped Fox with square 325 Hoosiers would also do circles around that.

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