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Track Time Limited due to High CHT

Biggsy

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Quick question:

I don’t have gauges yet. All cooling additions/modifications will be done this winter after my last event. So as of right now I go by what’s on the dash.

Is it normal for the CHT on the dash and the CHT reading via OBD2 to differ? Using my Race Capture device (OBD) was reading 7-9 * less than dash. I am able to set up alerts while on track. Trying to decide what temp I should set it at.
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ZPD

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Yeah, hot air is bad for boost and heatsoak is a bitch. Car has to fight with all sorts of issues when intake air gets too hot and too thin.

@ZPD , I found that running this thing in front of the car in between sessions for as long as possible helps start sessions with much cooler engine. It does not resolve any cooling limitations on track, but every little bit helps. It can also be used to cool down the diff pretty effectively.
you know, the crazy thing is that my IAT was normal (about 7-10 degrees hotter than ambient). One of the guys who works at the track offered to let me park in their garage in front of their 6' diameter fan. 😁 I never did it but it was a nice offer.
 

tosha

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Quick question:

I don’t have gauges yet. All cooling additions/modifications will be done this winter after my last event. So as of right now I go by what’s on the dash.

Is it normal for the CHT on the dash and the CHT reading via OBD2 to differ? Using my Race Capture device (OBD) was reading 7-9 * less than dash. I am able to set up alerts while on track. Trying to decide what temp I should set it at.
No, it should not. I think you are reading coolant temp on your OBD dashboard.
 

tosha

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you know, the crazy thing is that my IAT was normal (about 7-10 degrees hotter than ambient). One of the guys who works at the track offered to let me park in their garage in front of their 6' diameter fan. 😁 I never did it but it was a nice offer.
IAT1 or IAT2?
 

Biggsy

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No, it should not. I think you are reading coolant temp on your OBD dashboard.
Ah you are probably right. I’ll double check after work
 

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NeverSatisfied

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I had a track day today with Chin Track Days at Eagle Canyon Raceway. It was my first event there and it is a phenomenal track. Anyway, so far my cooling mods consist of a 3-row radiator (SVE I think), Harrop style air-to-oil cooler, boxing in of the radiator (probably better than 95%), Race Louvers center kit (just added), Trac Spec side louvers, opened up the stock grill, and probably 80/20 DI water to coolant with 2 bottles of water wetter. It was ~78 degrees in the morning, and by the 2 pm session, it was nearly 100 degrees. I still got CHT up to 255-260 after a few hot laps. I resigned myself to doing 2 hot laps and then 1 cool down in the morning sessions and then in the afternoon it was 1:1. This is so frustrating for me. TBH, I wish that I didn't do the supercharger. The power is incredible but it drives me crazy driving not being able to get the most out of it. I am convinced that the extra heat on the engine from the supercharger and the airflow going through the IC heat exchanger is stealing too much air from the radiator and it just can't be overcome. ARRRGH

Anyway has anyone used VP's Stay Frosty? One of the employees of the racetrack said that he used it for a his car that kept overheating and he dropped 20 degrees.
After everything I've had to do to keep bone stock power cool, I think you'll wish you'd bought a different car by the time you do what is required to keep a supercharged GT cool at the track.
 

ZPD

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ZPD

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After everything I've had to do to keep bone stock power cool, I think you'll wish you'd bought a different car by the time you do what is required to keep a supercharged GT cool at the track.
I already do. I love my car but I am at the tipping point here. Do I spend more $ chasing lower CHT temps and shaving seconds off my lap times? or should I just hold tight and enjoy it as it is know what the car's limitations are? Rhetorical question I know.
I was planning on buying an M2 but decided to wait until the new one is released sometime next year. And then there is the unknown promise of the Darkhorse S....
 

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Whichever one is in the dash display.
oh, that one is only useful to cross-check weather forecast. you need to be looking at IAT2, which is not available on dashboard and is actually temperature of air that goes into engine. you'd be surprised how much hotter it gets as it passes through intercooler and gets exposed to all the heat soak effects.

do you have access to E85?
 

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do you have access to E85?
Yes but I don't think that the track has it so I didn't even bother investigating E85
 

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Ewheels

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I already do. I love my car but I am at the tipping point here. Do I spend more $ chasing lower CHT temps and shaving seconds off my lap times? or should I just hold tight and enjoy it as it is know what the car's limitations are? Rhetorical question I know.
I was planning on buying an M2 but decided to wait until the new one is released sometime next year. And then there is the unknown promise of the Darkhorse S....
@boardkat might be the only successful person to keep a supercharged coyote cool on track. I know he says it was beyond complicated.
 

NeverSatisfied

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I already do. I love my car but I am at the tipping point here. Do I spend more $ chasing lower CHT temps and shaving seconds off my lap times? or should I just hold tight and enjoy it as it is know what the car's limitations are? Rhetorical question I know.
I was planning on buying an M2 but decided to wait until the new one is released sometime next year. And then there is the unknown promise of the Darkhorse S....
There’s not even a one size fits all recipe yet to keep a NA car cool.

You can buy a purpose built dedicated track car for all the dollars and frustration you’re about to throw at a perfectly good supercharged street car.
 

GTP

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Yeah, hot air is bad for boost and heatsoak is a bitch. Car has to fight with all sorts of issues when intake air gets too hot and too thin.

@ZPD , I found that running this thing in front of the car in between sessions for as long as possible helps start sessions with much cooler engine. It does not resolve any cooling limitations on track, but every little bit helps. It can also be used to cool down the diff pretty effectively.
I use the Lowe's version of that thing for my diff between sessions. Works great. I set up wheel chocks at the precise locations that when I back up my car (after getting out to switch on the fan) puts the fan just a couple inches off the diff.
 

TeeLew

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So we all know my feelings on the cooling end of things (basically that more is almost always better and water temp is the big driver of things).

I just bought the CSF Radiator for my Eco. https://csfrace.com/csf-cools-the-new-mustang/ They also have a GT version. They're a nice looking rad with AL tanks and it's a little thicker. They claim to have 50% more capacity and much better cooling due to fin & tube design. We'll see if that's actually a thing.

I kind of have a general aversion to Mishi stuff and I do think this is a step up in quality. The Eco rad was $500, so not particularly expensive. I'll report back as to how it works.
 
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bnightstar

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So we all know my feelings on the cooling end of things (basically that more is almost always better and water temp is the big driver of things).

I just bought the CSF Radiator for my Eco. https://csfrace.com/csf-cools-the-new-mustang/ They also have a GT version. They're a nice looking rad with AL tanks and it's a little thicker. They claim to have 50% more capacity and much better cooling due to fin & tube design. We'll see if that's actually a thing.

I kind of have a general aversion to Mishi stuff and I do think this is a step up in quality. The Eco rad was $500, so not particularly expensive. I'll report back as to how it works.
I'm not sure why Fluidyne/Kenny Brown 3-Pass radiator is not getting better press.

https://www.fluidyne.com/collections/radiators/products/fhp30x-15mu3-15-17-mustang-3-pass

I know @Flyhalf run one on his car. For me this radiator is very different than anything one the market.
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