Scootsmcgreggor
Well-Known Member
It looks like two gauges from the front but once you take the bezel off you’ll see the oil pressure and vac gauges are one unit. Not two separate gauges.
Sponsored
Yes.Did you mount your gauge in one of the large vents? I prefer not to do that.
I believe LMR sells an Autometer A-pillar mount for a single gauge.Did you mount your gauge in one of the large vents? I prefer not to do that.
Thanks for the videos. I checked my log data and the fuel/throttle pull back occurs in the 6800-6900 range. I checked my tune file and it says max rpm limit in 6th is 7000 but not sure if this limit is modified by something.Watch my tach and road speed as I get to 6th on the back straight at Gingerman. There does not seem to be any hesitation, and the car still seems to pull towards 7000rpm.
This was Aug 1st, and the first day with the new oil cooler.
And another one
It looks like two gauges from the front but once you take the bezel off you’ll see the oil pressure and vac gauges are one unit. Not two separate gauges.
Did you mount your gauge in one of the large vents? I prefer not to do that.
It is sinking in about the gauge challenges. Since the dual OEM gauges can't be split, then we are faced withI believe LMR sells an Autometer A-pillar mount for a single gauge.
https://lmr.com/item/ATM-12135/mustang-autometer-a-pillar-gauge-pod-15-17-12135
Keep the gauges as close together as you can, as close to your line of sight out windshield as you can, and as far away as you can still quickly read.It is sinking in about the gauge challenges. Since the dual OEM gauges can't be split, then we are faced with
Is it quick and easy to pop the gauge in and out of the large vent?
- GT350 dual oil press/temp (expensive and not actual oil temp),
- Oil temp in the large vent (kinda kludgie look),
- A-pillar mount (also kludgie and expensive piece of plastic).
This ^^Keep the gauges as close together as you can, as close to your line of sight out windshield as you can, and as far away as you can still quickly read.
The last thing you want to be doing is scanning from a pillar to cluster, to center vent gauges to get a full view of temps and pressures.
Also orient your temp gauges so that when the needle is vertical that's your max acceptable temp. That way you can glance and as long as the needle is not past the 12 o'clock position you're good. You're not bothered to try and read the actual number on the gauge.Hmm, well my mindset is to check only one gauge of interest and typically only halfway down the main straight. So distraction is not an issue for me. An A pillar mount is no problem for me.
Lately only CHT has been of interest while on track. Temperatures generally change slowly. CHT might be the only exception.
I look at everything else on the cool down lap or in the paddock.
“Close to” but definitely not “directly in” your line of sight.Also orient your temp gauges so that when the needle is vertical that's your max acceptable temp. That way you can glance and as long as the needle is not past the 12 o'clock position you're good. You're not bothered to try and read the actual number on the gauge.
For pressure gauges get the biggest brightest warning light you can and you can rely on that to hopefully avoid catastrophic failure. Otherwise you can prob just check once per session near redline when your EOT is near peak to see you still have sufficient pressure. At least that's what I do.
The issue with putting gauges directly in your line of sight is that they obstruct your forward view. Maybe acceptably, maybe not, depending on the install and number of gauges. So placement is also a tradeoff.
back at the track yesterday with 82 deg ambiant temp and had CHT of 234 with coolant and oil temps on real gauges at 220 ECT and 229 EOT.You are saying that Red (Oil 280F) calculated is 234 in Real life ? However most important question is what are your CHT temps as this is what is really important.