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Track Time Limited due to High CHT

NeverSatisfied

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Oh boy 🙂 ... it's never ending. I'm with ya. My only advice is to just picture yourself as an air molecule and you will want to seal the entire cavity between the grill holes and the back surface/plane ... seal up every hole/opening/slit. etc ... all around the perimeter of the radiator/condenser on the ... sides/top/bottom. Plus the engine inlet area and the opposite side too. And part of that is to cap the frame ends. And then turn around and look at the backside of the front clip/grill ... and do the same. It's painful but worth it. Good luck 👍.

@trackd ... see post #96. That will get you started on the sealing project. It's not an elegant or super robust approach, but it's easy and effective. If you do step (A), that will get you 50%. Easy stuff. 1 day job. To get the remaining 50%, you will have to remove the front clip/grill/bumper assembly. I thought the front was 35-40% of the leak back then, but now I know it's more like 50%.

The only thing I would caution you on is if you are going to go for the ~100% sealing effort, do the front clip (part B) 1st. Cus if you do part A 1st, you will have to remove some of it in order to remove the front clip. Not the end of the world, just adds ~2 hrs of redundant work. Have fun and good luck.
This go around I really boxed in the condenser. Up top particularly there’s no gap for air to get around it anymore. My thought there was air getting around the condenser creating a counter productive DP and fighting air trying to get through the oil cooler stacked in front of the condenser.

Hopefully I’m not choking the radiator now!
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NeverSatisfied

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LOL... overcast, low 70's today. 50 mile highway drive to the office. stabilized at a highway cruise...

CHT 180
ECT 165
Oil 160

I guess I need to fab a grill blocker for daily use now.
 

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LOL... overcast, low 70's today. 50 mile highway drive to the office. stabilized at a highway cruise...

CHT 180
ECT 165
Oil 160

I guess I need to fab a grill blocker for daily use now.
Are you running no thermostat for the oil cooler?
 

NeverSatisfied

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Are you running no thermostat for the oil cooler?
Stock coolant thermostat and 180 in the Setrab sandwich.

There’s just enough “bleed-by” that with all the airflow and cooling, neither one is opening.
 

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Stock coolant thermostat and 180 in the Setrab sandwich.

There’s just enough “bleed-by” that with all the airflow and cooling, neither one is opening.
I would think with the thermostats closed, everything should still get up to operating temp without the need for a grille blocker
 

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NeverSatisfied

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I would think with the thermostats closed, everything should still get up to operating temp without the need for a grille blocker
One would think. However, with my fully opened up grill, boxed in airflow through the radiator, oversized oil cooler Setrab rates for 600+hp and adds 2 quarts of oil capacity, Mishimoto radiator running distilled and water wetter, gutted fan shroud, and full race louvers--80mph cruising airflow and 2k RPM low load appears to not create enough heat.
 

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I would think with the thermostats closed, everything should still get up to operating temp without the need for a grille blocker
Not sure about the water thermostat but setrab oil sandwich thermostat allows a bit of bypass when closed (to avoid thermal shock upon opening) and enough oil bypasses that I also cannot get up to temp cruising on the freeway. Mine usually doesn’t get above 140* without my grill blocker.
 

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One would think. However, with my fully opened up grill, boxed in airflow through the radiator, oversized oil cooler Setrab rates for 600+hp and adds 2 quarts of oil capacity, Mishimoto radiator running distilled and water wetter, gutted fan shroud, and full race louvers--80mph cruising airflow and 2k RPM low load appears to not create enough heat.
Don't know if it would work - as an alternative, you might cosider using cover plates for your hood louvers cutouts. Al at racelouvers sells those, but the cost seems to be a bit too much for what is essentially a piece of aluminum.

I'm playing with an idea of manufacturing one from a piece of plexiglass, at least for the center. I would freak out less every time the car gets under a heavy rain. Then swap it for track days.
 

GTP

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Stock coolant thermostat and 180 in the Setrab sandwich.

There’s just enough “bleed-by” that with all the airflow and cooling, neither one is opening.
Please forgive a dumb question. But to be very clear, the unmodified OEM system has coolant Tstat, CHT sensor, oil pressure sensor, but no Tstat for the oil/water HX, correct?

In an email exchange with a Setrab rep, he may have assumed that there is a Tstat for the OEM oil cooler, and that it would battle with the Setrab Tstat over oil temp control.

I don't think there is one and so that didn't make sense to me.
 

NeverSatisfied

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Please forgive a dumb question. But to be very clear, the unmodified OEM system has coolant Tstat, CHT sensor, oil pressure sensor, but no Tstat for the oil/water HX, correct?

In an email exchange with a Setrab rep, he may have assumed that there is a Tstat for the OEM oil cooler, and that it would battle with the Setrab Tstat over oil temp control.

I don't think there is one and so that didn't make sense to me.
My poverty spec model doesnt even come with and oil pressure sensor—just a switch. But you are correct—no oil thermostat from factory.
 

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GTP

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right along the same lines except I ran 10an stuff. and stacked a Susa dual sensor adapter under the thermostat sandwich adapter. I don't like the stacked plates, but it seems to be working. I really think you can get away with drilling and tapping the sandwich plate for 1/8" NPT sensors.

Susa fittings are available through Pegasus. Lower rad hose and oil filter bung are available through improved racing.
Ask and you shall receive.
Behold the new billet Setrab sandwich plate with capped 1/8 NPT port.

20220719_151155.jpg
 
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One would think. However, with my fully opened up grill, boxed in airflow through the radiator, oversized oil cooler Setrab rates for 600+hp and adds 2 quarts of oil capacity, Mishimoto radiator running distilled and water wetter, gutted fan shroud, and full race louvers--80mph cruising airflow and 2k RPM low load appears to not create enough heat.
Just curious how much you opened your grill relative to stock. I'm at +57% in area from OEM. Still trying to find time to install. Maybe next week. I believe GTP is in the range of +90-100% based on the areas he mentioned.
 

GTP

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Hey guys. I will post a progress report on my build by week's end. Setrab 12965 Proline Com 2-pass cooler, mounted horizontally with vented belly pan, Setrab billet sandwich plate, 12AN hoses, opened OEM grille, etc.

I've spent so many hours with 3 attempts to get that cooler to fit in that space. It had to be angled up 5* above horizontal to fit.

Tomorrow is oil drain day to install the plate. Newb question about oil cooler install: Can't I simply connect all the plumbing , start the car, and not worry about how or when the new cooler becomes primed?

It seems to me that the 180* Tstat will remain closed, and the plate will bypass the new cooler and still protect the engine with oil flow. Once the temp rises above 180 then the valve gradually opens, filling the cooler and purging out the air.

I just don't think it is practical (ie clean) to try to prime a horizontal cooler with both fittings on one end.
 

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Just curious how much you opened your grill relative to stock. I'm at +57% in area from OEM. Still trying to find time to install. Maybe next week. I believe GTP is in the range of +90-100% based on the areas he mentioned.
I have always been content with the chrome OEM exterior badges on my car.

But lately I have been giving that front grille pony the evil eye! :clock:
 

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I have always been content with the chrome OEM exterior badges on my car.

But lately I have been giving that front grille pony the evil eye! :clock:
If you are wondering what it looks like without the pony:

8E3C2412-0448-4DAB-AA86-1CFFC43D5D8C.jpeg


I didn’t want to give up that airflow either.

RE: priming: yes you’ll be fine leaving the cooler and lines empty. The Tstat in the sandwich plate bleeds by some oil even closed so the cooler will fill pretty quickly after startup anyways.
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