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Track Time Limited due to High CHT

GTP

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I’m not sure what ect or cht triggers it but it starts pulling timing as the calculated oil temp gets from the yellow to the red.

I like the Setrab sandwich adapter for the oil because I run straight m22 oring to -10an with no fitting restrictions. Downside is there’s no ports on the Setrab sandwich plate.

I did find an extension for the oem oil pressure switch that has two extra ports on it that I plan to use to tap pressure and temp. Not sure I like the idea of three sensors hanging off an extension though.
@NeverSatisfied
Do you have a list of fittings that you used on your build? I will likely go with the Setrab plate, and want to know which fittings best route the lines forward.
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Scootsmcgreggor

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@NeverSatisfied
Do you have a list of fittings that you used on your build? I will likely go with the Setrab plate, and want to know which fittings best route the lines forward.
The cooler end will be determined by your own setup but I used the following at the sandwich plate:

Remove stock sandwich plate and oil cooler
Setrab 180* Susa sandwich plate.
2x m22 to -12an straight fittings
1 x 12an double swivel 45*
1 x 12an double swivel 60*

I used these to route my lines between the top of the subframe and under the sway bar, pointed outboard to route the lines around the drivers side of the radiator. If your lines are resting on the subframe, the sway bar even at full compression is an inch away from -12 lines with fire sleeve on them.

Added benefit of removing the stock oil cooler is it leaves plenty of room for the ford performance fl280 filter on the Susa sandwich plate.

25C8F92A-EC04-4D36-AFBF-EB42669CDD57.jpeg
3D37DE57-F860-4B0D-8340-7872D73D05BC.jpeg
 

Biggsy

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The cooler end will be determined by your own setup but I used the following at the sandwich plate:

Remove stock sandwich plate and oil cooler
Setrab 180* Susa sandwich plate.
2x m22 to -12an straight fittings
1 x 12an double swivel 45*
1 x 12an double swivel 60*

I used these to route my lines between the top of the subframe and under the sway bar, pointed outboard to route the lines around the drivers side of the radiator. If your lines are resting on the subframe, the sway bar even at full compression is an inch away from -12 lines with fire sleeve on them.

Added benefit of removing the stock oil cooler is it leaves plenty of room for the ford performance fl280 filter on the Susa sandwich plate.

25C8F92A-EC04-4D36-AFBF-EB42669CDD57.jpeg
3D37DE57-F860-4B0D-8340-7872D73D05BC.jpeg
Since you posted it, how do you feel about the 180* thermostat in the sandwich plate? Would that be too low for a dual purpose car? Was looking at the Improved racing 212* plate but cost twice as much.
 

TeeLew

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Since you posted it, how do you feel about the 180* thermostat in the sandwich plate? Would that be too low for a dual purpose car? Was looking at the Improved racing 212* plate but cost twice as much.
Remember, the number which the thermostat begins to open is not your operating temp. Operating temp will be ~15-20* higher. I think your best bet might just be a simple on/off valve to the cooler. Switch it 'on' for the track and 'off' the rest of the time. There's really no need for an actual thermostat.


***Something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/363653053752?hash=item54ab693d38:g:legAAOSw0sxhtLjw
 

NeverSatisfied

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right along the same lines except I ran 10an stuff. and stacked a Susa dual sensor adapter under the thermostat sandwich adapter. I don't like the stacked plates, but it seems to be working. I really think you can get away with drilling and tapping the sandwich plate for 1/8" NPT sensors.

Susa fittings are available through Pegasus. Lower rad hose and oil filter bung are available through improved racing.
 

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Scootsmcgreggor

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Since you posted it, how do you feel about the 180* thermostat in the sandwich plate? Would that be too low for a dual purpose car? Was looking at the Improved racing 212* plate but cost twice as much.
It’s a compromise and restricts flow so it’s not my fav but did want a thermostat since I drive to and from the track. You can also regulate oil temp with a grill blocker. Even with the thermostat the oil hangs around 140-160* with the grill wide open. So I run a grill blocker whenever the car is not on track.

69E39E3E-430D-4AEB-B743-AD34DE9BCEA4.jpeg
 

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GTP

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Added benefit of removing the stock oil cooler is it leaves plenty of room for the ford performance fl280 filter on the Susa sandwich plate.
Did you mistype the filter number, and intend to type FP FL820?
I run the FL820S, the regular Ford large diameter filter, and it fits the un modified car.
 

Scootsmcgreggor

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Did you mistype the filter number, and intend to type FP FL820?
I run the FL820S, the regular Ford large diameter filter, and it fits the un modified car.
Thanks for catching that. Yes the FP FL820, part # CM-6731-FL820
 

GTP

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The stock oil cooler is also partially driving your high CHT's when pushing. oil at 270*+ pumping heat into water at 215*
I get what you are saying.

What I learned in heat transfer class is that heat flow is a slow process but it always flows from the higher temperature to the lower one.

So yes, the heat flow is from the oil to the water, and that heated water gets cooled back down by the radiator, when the heat flows from the hot water to the cooler air.

Let's not forget that water has a much higher heat capacity, and specific heat, than air, meaning it takes more energy to heat water than it does to heat air. Water has a specific heat of 4.186 J/g degreesC, versus air, which has a specific heat of 1.005 J/g degreesC.

The question is how much extra load is the OEM oil cooler on the coolant system? If it is not all that much compared to the engine, then I will try it with the OEM oil cooler and install an auxiliary aftermarket oil cooler. Still deciding which one, where to mount, etc.
 

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Scootsmcgreggor

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I get what you are saying.

What I learned in heat transfer class is that heat flow is a slow process but it always flows from the higher temperature to the lower one.

So yes, the heat flow is from the oil to the water, and that heated water gets cooled back down by the radiator, when the heat flows from the hot water to the cooler air.

Let's not forget that water has a much higher heat capacity, and specific heat, than air, meaning it takes more energy to heat water than it does to heat air. Water has a specific heat of 4.186 J/g degreesC, versus air, which has a specific heat of 1.005 J/g degreesC.

The question is how much extra load is the OEM oil cooler on the coolant system? If it is not all that much compared to the engine, then I will try it with the OEM oil cooler and install an auxiliary aftermarket oil cooler. Still deciding which one, where to mount, etc.
Yeah I’m not smart enough for those calcs so I won’t try. I suspect though that it’s definitely less than the engine is responsible for. I just wanted to do it once and be done so I deleted it and sized my HX accordingly. But as with anything many ways to get to the same endpoint.
 

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I spent two days in 90+ heat with my front clip off, studying and measuring to see what is possible.

I also opened up all my upper and lower grille cells using a router. A full two hours.

BTW I estimated
Radiator area 480in2,
Both grilles area 220in2 (includes the passenger side triangle area)

20220706_110651.jpg
 
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67Fast_V

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I spent two days in 90+ heat with my front clip off, studying and measuring to see what is possible.

I also opened up all my upper and lower grille cells using a router. A full two hours.

BTW I estimated
Radiator area 480in2,
Both grilles area 220in2 (includes the passenger side triangle area)

20220706_110651.jpg
Now that's a serious grille mod ... some heavy duty whittling. I did mine with a drill and dremel tool. Took a lot longer than 2 hrs. Change the units for me. Very tedious, especially when you are close to a "perfectionist"☹. My curse.

You said you were serious and wanted a homer at the 1st at bat. Keep this up and you might do exactly that 👍. If you remove the oil heat load from the coolant and seal this system up with that big grille, you will have ice sickles forming at the track:) . Keep going.

On your question from post 340, ... "The question is how much extra load is the OEM oil cooler on the coolant system?" ... My answer: Tough question. Not easy to answer and of course it varies with coolant and oil temps. But for sure it's not trivial. My general expectation is something like 30,000 Btu/hr at a minimum and 60,000 at a maximum. I have used 40k btu/hr in the past for varies calculation purposes.

Since it seems that many are converting over, I run some calcs and see what feels right for heat load and the benefit on CHT. Might be interesting to define the carrot.
 

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stupid idea incoming:

water to water heat exchanger (transmission brick cooler), 1 side has coolant pass through, and the other has ice water pumped from a tank in the trunk. They are separate loops and both relatively low pressure. No clue how much energy can be transferred into X amount of ice water. Drag racers use similiar air to ice water IC..
 

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The question is how much extra load is the OEM oil cooler on the coolant system? If it is not all that much compared to the engine, then I will try it with the OEM oil cooler and install an auxiliary aftermarket oil cooler. Still deciding which one, where to mount, etc.
https://www.motorsportandperformance.com/blogs/blog/mustang-gt-oil-cooler-failure

For last time the OEM oil cooler has a very tin aluminium plate between the oil and the coolant that because of heat have a tendency to brake. And as we know mixing oil and coolant is not great idea for any motor. So if you can get rid of that thing better do it.
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