Track Time Limited due to High CHT

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67Fast_V

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I’m not sure what ect or cht triggers it but it starts pulling timing as the calculated oil temp gets from the yellow to the red.

I like the Setrab sandwich adapter for the oil because I run straight m22 oring to -10an with no fitting restrictions. Downside is there’s no ports on the Setrab sandwich plate.

I did find an extension for the oem oil pressure switch that has two extra ports on it that I plan to use to tap pressure and temp. Not sure I like the idea of three sensors hanging off an extension though.
Good to know, thanks. My oil temp has been on green-yellow edge. I will go hunting for the oil pressure sensor, see what it looks like. If you or someone has a photo, that would be helpful too.

 

NeverSatisfied

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Good to know, thanks. My oil temp has been on green-yellow edge. I will go hunting for the oil pressure sensor, see what it looks like. If you or someone has a photo, that would be helpful too.
On the gen three it’s berries behind alternator above oil filter
 
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67Fast_V

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How do you guys retrieve the inferred oil temp? I cannot seem to find a PID for it that works through my obd2 connector, and I don't have a gauge for it in the digital dash.
I was bummed to find out as well that there is no PID available that HPtuners device will pull. The only way to look at the oil temp is on the center console display. You will see it read Normal or Warm, etc. Then just click on it and it will display a "color" graph.

Ford has indicated what the color ranges are. The edge of green yellow is 280F . The edge of yellow red is 296F. At the end of the session, basically at the start of the cool down lap, I toggle over to see where the temp lies. Then I write down where the needle was positioned when I get back to the pits. Terrible method, but that's all I have at the moment.
 

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I was bummed to find out as well that there is no PID available that HPtuners device will pull. The only way to look at the oil temp is on the center console display. You will see it read Normal or Warm, etc. Then just click on it and it will display a "color" graph.

Ford has indicated what the color ranges are. The edge of green yellow is 280F . The edge of yellow red is 296F. At the end of the session, basically at the start of the cool down lap, I toggle over to see where the temp lies. Then I write down where the needle was positioned when I get back to the pits. Terrible method, but that's all I have at the moment.
I don't have it in my digital cluster as an option, and it seems to be the same with others: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/missing-engine-oil-temp-gauge-on-2019.114940/

I can monitor battery charge, but not oil temp, duh, thank you ford :facepalm:
 

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I don't have it in my digital cluster as an option, and it seems to be the same with others: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/missing-engine-oil-temp-gauge-on-2019.114940/

I can monitor battery charge, but not oil temp, duh, thank you ford :facepalm:
Don’t feel bad—you’re not missing much. it’s just a calculated value anyway that best I can tell is mostly dependent on CHT

Also this is the fitting I picked up…

https://pbhperformance.com/product/...czMicBrQbwqzdVMtIyZfypBrNCb0bZ74aAsN_EALw_wcB
 
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tosha

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so I had few very interesting chats with Al from RaceLouvers while choosing the best configuration for my needs, will leave it out here if anyone is interested:
1) between center or side vents options, either one is expected to have roughly the same efficiency. Center vent is positioned better, but side hood vents have a bit bigger extraction surface area, so it would be a match from cooling efficiency if you choose between these 2 options
2) heat extraction performance depends on the vents surface area in a somewhat linear way, so having center+sides would give roughly double the efficiency. I personally would expect to see diminishing effect after certain point of adding heat extractors, but decided to still go with both
3) side vents position on 2018+ models is dictated by the shape of the recesses and factory vents, and they typically install center vent position by aligning the back edges (center vent is couple inches shorter). one could choose the center vent position by aligning front edges instead, but the difference is mostly aesthetic.
4) vents require about one inch of clearance from the underside of the hood (hood surface itself, not reinforcement ribs)
5) they also have covers that could be installed in place of vents in case if someone is really concerned about the water entering the engine bay area.

Since I have Roush supercharger on top of the engine, I was concerned about center vent fitment. I did some rough measurements and it seems that once everything is cut out, I should still be good. I will be doing center vent install next week and will share some pictures on how it fits for Roush supercharger usecase.
 
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so I had few very interesting chats with Al from RaceLouvers while choosing the best configuration for my needs, will leave it out here if anyone is interested:
1) between center or side vents options, either one is expected to have roughly the same efficiency. Center vent is positioned better, but side hood vents have a bit bigger extraction surface area, so it would be a match from cooling efficiency if you choose between these 2 options
2) heat extraction performance depends on the vents surface area in a somewhat linear way, so having center+sides would give roughly double the efficiency. I personally would expect to see diminishing effect after certain point of adding heat extractors, but decided to still go with both
3) side vents position on 2018+ models is dictated by the shape of the recesses and factory vents, and they typically install center vent position by aligning the back edges (center vent is couple inches shorter). one could choose the center vent position by aligning front edges instead, but the difference is mostly aesthetic.
4) vents require about one inch of clearance from the underside of the hood (hood surface itself, not reinforcement ribs)
5) they also have covers that could be installed in place of vents in case if someone is really concerned about the water entering the engine bay area.

Since I have Roush supercharger on top of the engine, I was concerned about center vent fitment. I did some rough measurements and it seems that once everything is cut out, I should still be good. I will be doing center vent install next week and will share some pictures on how it fits for Roush supercharger usecase.
Good info, thanks. Just remember that the hood vents are the last (5th) orifice in the system, so it will have less impact to the airflow through the radiator. Hence a smaller improvement can be expected. There is 1 scenario which that is not the case.

And that is if you go with one of those wide open aftermarket grilles which essentially has no restriction. In that scenario, the hood louver is a much bigger knob and really a must have. And you want monster vents in that case to get the air out from underneath the hood. And if the radiator is unsealed, then it's a even more important to have big vents. Also under this scenario of a wide open grille, radiator sealing provides little cooling benefit, especially if you have big hood vents to get the air out.

The downside of the big grille is an Aero hit. How much? ... no easy way for me to quantify. Slow tracks... who cares. Fast tracks and with high-speed turns, ... bigger deal.

Note that the flow is a real mess when it comes out of the fan shroud and then has to exit the hood vents. Plenty of blockage from the intake tube and hoses and misc. The center and drivers side vent are significantly blocked but the passenger side vent is open and an easy path when flow exits the fan shroud.

What likely happens is a good amt of the airflow migrates upward to just under the hood in the "gap" space and then moved downstream to exits the center/side louvers. I tried to measure how big this gap is and it's not easy. The only one I have any confidence in is the gap/distance between the radiator cap and the hood and it's about 0.9". Also note that airflow will travel out the bottom (under the car) as it exits the lower region of the fan shroud.

As mentioned previously. my fan shroud is modified/gutted and has a lot of open area, so it's much more free flowing than stock to allow the air to escape out my center vent and bottom/under the car. It cost me a little temp hit when the car is not moving, but it's nominal and not an issue. Still won't get to even 200F in stop & go traffic.

Good luck with the cutting 👍.
 
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jrpav

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Are you guys actually running a thermostat on a track car? Uh, maybe that's the problem.
 
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67Fast_V

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Are you guys actually running a thermostat on a track car? Uh, maybe that's the problem.
Yes, running a thermostat. If I/we removed it, likely wouldn't get to the grocery store w/o overheating.

The Ford design has an integrated bypass circuit. Take a look at some pictures. If the thermostat is removed, then the vast majority of the coolant that exits the engine (hot fluid) would bypass the radiator entirely (go back into the engine w/o a temperature drop) and hence result in overheating just driving around town.
 

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Well you're either going to the grocery store or running on the track so...

In the old days we replaced the thermostat with a restrictor. Lets more coolant flow than the thermostat but not as much as if you simply remove it.
 

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Well you're either going to the grocery store or running on the track so...
Leave your hard-ass routine at the door or don't let it hit you as you leave.
 

 
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