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Today's moral of the story is, don't over torque your lug nuts

Emilbadal

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Since my rear suspension was creaking, and I have around 110miles of commute each day and the creaking was getting to me, I decided to have a look at the rear wheel bearings, maybe grease up my vertical links and check the axle nuts and just do a routine check back there. I jacked up the rear passenger side, checked the bearings and greased up the vertical link and put it back together. Moved to the driver side and from the get go I noticed that the lug nuts were taking so much more force to undo, until one of the lug nuts felt as if it was stripping and started going crooked on me...luckily I managed to take it off and here it is....
IMG_20211114_204412.jpg

It was either the guy who changed my tires last month over torqued the pi$$ out of that
one side for some reason, or Ford's rusty infectious hubs, rust welded the lug nuts... either way, the moral of the story is , make sure you don't over torque the spline lug nuts and most importantly, don't use impact gun on them too, which I am guilty of it as well
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WD Pro

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Yeah my first question would be what make is that lug nut ?

Without sounding like an arse, we’re they ‘cheap’ ?

On another note, does that taper fill the Ford recess (if fitted on Ford wheels) ?

On the upside, at least it would have failed safe and still held the wheel on … lol :like:

WD :like:
 

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Emilbadal

Emilbadal

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Ford lug nuts are cheap crap. You don't have to over-torque them for failure. Get some Gorillas on there and problem solved.
On what models does Ford use splined nuts?
These were not Ford's lug nuts. I have aftermarket wheels so I bought these small diameter splined lug nuts.

Yeah this time I bought some Gorillas:like:
 
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Emilbadal

Emilbadal

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Yeah my first question would be what make is that lug nut ?

Without sounding like an arse, we’re they ‘cheap’ ?

On another note, does that taper fill the Ford recess (if fitted on Ford wheels) ?

On the upside, at least it would have failed safe and still held the wheel on … lol :like:

WD :like:
I bought them from Pepboys around 4 years ago, and they held up pretty well, I have to say since I have taken the wheels on and off at least a dozen times during this period. But the last time that the wheel was taken off was by a mobile tire installer and it failed on me. Honestly I don't know if their seat taper will fit the OEM wheels, I don't remember the original wheel's seat. My current wheels have the 60 degree conical seats.

Buy a torque stick. They're pretty inexpensive and you can still use the impact gun.
I do have one, and I've been using it every time. It's just taking off the lug nuts I usually use impact gun on them.

One of the biggest issues that I see, is that the wheel hubs' rust has found its way onto the studs and into the lug nuts. Which I think it increases the torque required to take off the lug nuts after a while. The first time I took off my aftermarket wheels off after a year of them being on the car, the wheels were stuck to the hubs so bad, that I had to go out and buy anti-seize and wire brush to clean the rust and put anti-seize on all the mating surfaces of the hub and my wheels ( Not the studs- because it's a bad idea and also it says it on the anti-seize tube as well), still the lug nuts and the studs are not safe from the rust :(
 

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JoeSpeed

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They really twisted your nuts there

sorry to head that, time to get better quality parts though
 

Nickel

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Get proper forged lug nuts and don't let other people turn a wrench on your car. That's about all I can say.
 

07S281E

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Nothing worse than a twisted nut!
 

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So you are saying I shouldn't use the Ingersoll Rand W9000 Series 1" 20V 6" Extended High Torque Cordless Anvil Impact Wrench Kit W9691-K4E (2,200 ft-lbs of tightening torque) to torque my lug nuts?
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