To clay or not to clay?

[MAGS1]

You are correct as this should be done but claying is still necessary to remove non iron contaminates. It is foolish to spend the time required to do the job and skip a step. With today’s new clay products it takes a very short time to do it.

True, claying is still required but not necessarily for the entire car if the iron removing spray is used. I try to avoid claying the entire car if at all possible because they are abrasive and I don't want to take any more of the already thin clear coat off than I absolutely have to when polishing out those abrasive marks.

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[lizardrko]

Agreed with the majority. Iron remover will help with the iron particles, but even light non iron particles need mechanical intervene. There is always a chance of marring depending on lubrication and technique, the chance is just greater if you have lots of contamination that require more agressive clay. I would wait until you can spare the time to polish, even just a 1 step should be good enough. If you cant wait, just throw a sealant on there with no claying for time time being

 

[RichGT350R]

I always check the finish before pulling out the clay bar. Get a baggie (sandwich bag), put your hand in it and run your fingers across the paint. If it feels like 120 grit sandpaper, grab the clay bar. If not, move on to a light polish.

 

[WD Pro]

True, claying is still required but not necessarily for the entire car if the iron removing spray is used. I try to avoid claying the entire car if at all possible because they are abrasive and I don't want to take any more of the already thin clear coat off than I absolutely have to when polishing out those abrasive marks.

I would hazard a guess that something is wrong with your equipment or process if you have to polish out marks left by clay … ?

@Kristian87 - In the past I loathed claying and found it time consuming (wash / clay bar and QD / wash again), but with new methods I don’t mind it.

Wash the car (you have to do this bit anyway) but do it one panel at a time.

Have a second wash bucket (+ grit guard) ready, but with a slick wash soap mixed twice as strong as normal.

Wash the panel with lots of the concentrated wash mix, lightly, with a good clay mitt. Go back to the concentrated wash bucket frequently. Rinse and move to the next panel.

However long your ‘normal’ wash process is, this will double it and add a bit - but you are only getting the hose and equipment out once, and only drying off once. Overall it’s much quicker than the ‘old’ clay method I have used in the past

I’ve just converted my bro and he was surprised at the difference

Keep some traditional clay ready for the tricky bits (around door handles etc) where you can’t get the clay mitt easily or without using excess pressure.

WD

 

[DFB5.0]

As mentioned, you may not need to clay the entire car. Ideally you would but I would use an iron remover first and then assess if clay is necessary. The last car I did a "full" detail on the paint didn't need a clay all over the car, just the lower panels. Granted, my cars are VERY well maintained but it does show that a clay bar is not always needed.

Also, perhaps invest in a newer take on the clay bar. I find traditional clay bars cumbersome to use, drop one and its basically straight in the bin. I think the advancements in clay towels, clay mitts and clay foam blocks makes the whole "claying" process much quicker and easier. Drop one of these and you simply rinse and start over.

These are what I mean, I have added a couple from a UK supplier for the OP -
https://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/products/carpro-polyshave-decontamination-clay-towel
https://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/products/farecla-g3-body-prep-clay-mitt
https://www.obsessedgarage.com/collections/decontamination/products/c5-nanoskin-autoscrub-6-pad
https://www.obsessedgarage.com/collections/decontamination/products/c4-nanoskin-autoscrub-sponge

Here is what I would do -
1. Do your normal wash procedure, preferably with a stripping soap.
2. Iron decontamination.
3. Inspect, if needed use a clay product of choice. All over or in spot sections.
4. If you don't have time for polishing, then just use your favorite wax or sealant. These usually last about 4 - 6 months, you may have the time in the to do a polish once the product breaks down. Also keep in mind, a lot of modern wax's and sealant's have fillers in them to hide minor imperfections, so that could mask a few things until you have the time to polish.

 

[Kristian87]

Thanks @DFB5.0 - that's sound advice. I do have a foam clay block which I used on my glass last time I washed so that will be my weapon of choice.

Appreciate the comments re not claying the whole car, not something I had considered before. As you say, it's the lower half that really needs the attention.

Whether I like it or not, I'll have to carve out some time before winter rolls in to do a full polish session, but at least a clay & protection in the meantime will last as long as it needs to!

 

[kilobravo]

Get a baggie (sandwich bag), put your hand in it

A nitrile or nylon glove works well, too. Odd that your finger tips can't feel the bumps naked but can when dressed. Weird, but it is totally true.

Kristian: I only clay prior to polishing mainly because the clay itself will mar the finish in places and secondly because, an electric polisher has a much better chance of picking up contaminants and scratching the paint with them. If you're just waxing, iron remover is more than enough IMHO.

 

[MNstang]

I'll do that on the day haha



My interior glass has always been a nightmare. Going to try the magic eraser method and see how that goes

What are you guys talking about on the interior glass and a magic eraser? I have not heard of this before...

 

[Kristian87]

What are you guys talking about on the interior glass and a magic eraser? I have not heard of this before...

Neither had I until a couple of months ago. Stumbled across the concept on youtube - just have a search. This was on of the ones I watched



The theory is that the magic erasers, whilst abrasive and generally good for cleaning, also contain chemicals that help break down and absorb some of the "film", or residue that builds up on interior glass. A bit of a "deep clean" method, not something that's needed on every clean.

 

[Bikeman315]

What are you guys talking about on the interior glass and a magic eraser? I have not heard of this before...

Neither have I and if you have tint don’t even think about it. Magic erasers are quite abrasive and could scratch the tint.

 

[Bikeman315]

Neither had I until a couple of months ago. Stumbled across the concept on youtube - just have a search. This was on of the ones I watched



The theory is that the magic erasers, whilst abrasive and generally good for cleaning, also contain chemicals that help break down and absorb some of the "film", or residue that builds up on interior glass. A bit of a "deep clean" method, not something that's needed on every clean.

That would be a “no thank you”.

 

[MNstang]

Neither had I until a couple of months ago. Stumbled across the concept on youtube - just have a search. This was on of the ones I watched



The theory is that the magic erasers, whilst abrasive and generally good for cleaning, also contain chemicals that help break down and absorb some of the "film", or residue that builds up on interior glass. A bit of a "deep clean" method, not something that's needed on every clean.

Interesting, thanks.

 

[MNstang]

Neither have I and if you have tint don’t even think about it. Magic erasers are quite abrasive and could scratch the tint.

I do have tint on the mustang so won't use this method on my car. Perhaps on my truck or wife's vehicle...

 

[MAGS1]

I would hazard a guess that something is wrong with your equipment or process if you have to polish out marks left by clay … ?

@Kristian87 - In the past I loathed claying and found it time consuming (wash / clay bar and QD / wash again), but with new methods I don’t mind it.

Wash the car (you have to do this bit anyway) but do it one panel at a time.

Have a second wash bucket (+ grit guard) ready, but with a slick wash soap mixed twice as strong as normal.

Wash the panel with lots of the concentrated wash mix, lightly, with a good clay mitt. Go back to the concentrated wash bucket frequently. Rinse and move to the next panel.

However long your ‘normal’ wash process is, this will double it and add a bit - but you are only getting the hose and equipment out once, and only drying off once. Overall it’s much quicker than the ‘old’ clay method I have used in the past

I’ve just converted my bro and he was surprised at the difference

Keep some traditional clay ready for the tricky bits (around door handles etc) where you can’t get the clay mitt easily or without using excess pressure.

WD

I've not had the issue on my car as I use the lightest clay bar possible, but I have done polishing work on friends' cars where they used the most aggressive clay bar possible (because they thought they needed to when they really didn't) and had to get a little more aggressive with my polishing pads. Just sharing my experience is all

 

[Maglin]

I wouldn't clay if you don't have the time to polish. I would actually take an entire day and do all your paint corrections then ceramic coat your car. Then you have a few years of not having to worry about it. Just use a top coat ceramic spray from time to time after an easy washing.

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