Tips on replacing VCT solenoids?

[Houdinii_5.0]

I logged my car and both intake solenoids seem to be going out. Randomly stumbles and dies etc.. ordered some new ones but I was curious on 2018+ how big of a pita is it to remove the valve covers and replace the solenoids? The passenger side seems the worst with having a fuel system and the DI stuff in the way. I was also wondering if it’s a must to replace the valve cover gaskets? Currently don’t have any leaks however I’ve seen people say to get new ones anytime you remove them. Any tips or tools that would make the job easier would be appreciated.

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[ice445]

How do you know for sure it's the solenoids and not the phasers themselves? Usually if you see wild fluctuations between commanded and actual cam timing, the phaser itself is the culprit because it cannot mechanically achieve a lock in the lower oil pressure environment of sub 2500rpm.

 

[raptor17GT]

i'm having the exhaust bank 2 VCT replaced this coming weekend for a P0024. We've checked the wiring and the signal from car is going to the VCT but the cam is not shifting its relative positioning. I have a pre facelift model though so i believe it is a bit easier with the lack of DI.

@Houdinii_5.0 - you got error codes?

How do you know for sure it's the solenoids and not the phasers themselves? Usually if you see wild fluctuations between commanded and actual cam timing, the phaser itself is the culprit because it cannot mechanically achieve a lock in the lower oil pressure environment of sub 2500rpm.

gawd i hope it's not the phaser as that's the whole front of the car and engine off :(

 

[Houdinii_5.0]

How do you know for sure it's the solenoids and not the phasers themselves? Usually if you see wild fluctuations between commanded and actual cam timing, the phaser itself is the culprit because it cannot mechanically achieve a lock in the lower oil pressure environment of sub 2500rpm.

I'd rather start with the cheapest solution first and just from what I've seen researching the issue it seems that it's very common for the solenoids to fail. I would think if it was phasers the issue would come up much more frequently. I would assume bad phasers would consistently produce an error. I can drive for a while before they just suddenly go crazy and the idle will dip or stall very quickly. I also saw a vid that lund did on logging vct issues and my log exactly replicates what they had going on when the solenoids were bad.

 

[Houdinii_5.0]

i'm having the exhaust bank 2 VCT replaced this coming weekend for a P0024. We've checked the wiring and the signal from car is going to the VCT but the cam is not shifting its relative positioning. I have a pre facelift model though so i believe it is a bit easier with the lack of DI.

@Houdinii_5.0 - you got error codes?


gawd i hope it's not the phaser as that's the whole front of the car and engine off :(

I've never gotten any codes. I've seen some people say they went 4-6 months with the issue before it threw any kind of code.

 

[Strokerswild]

Apparently this is sort of a Gen 3 thing, my '19 F150 5.0 has had all the solenoids replaced under warranty within the first 20K miles. Low idle, stalling, etc. I don't recall the codes.

Runs great now, but you better believe I'm skittish about the long term with this truck....

 

[Houdinii_5.0]

Apparently this is sort of a Gen 3 thing, my '19 F150 5.0 has had all the solenoids replaced under warranty within the first 20K miles. Low idle, stalling, etc. I don't recall the codes.

Runs great now, but you better believe I'm skittish about the long term with this truck....

Mines been good to me so far. 50k miles on it and the last 12k have been boosted making 900+. This is the first mechanical issue I've had out of the engine.

 

[ice445]

I'd rather start with the cheapest solution first and just from what I've seen researching the issue it seems that it's very common for the solenoids to fail. I would think if it was phasers the issue would come up much more frequently. I would assume bad phasers would consistently produce an error. I can drive for a while before they just suddenly go crazy and the idle will dip or stall very quickly. I also saw a vid that lund did on logging vct issues and my log exactly replicates what they had going on when the solenoids were bad.

Oh okay, if it's more random I can see it being solenoids. To answer your questions, you do want new valve cover gaskets. The difgiculty isn't too extreme overall, but I can't remember if you need to remove the high pressure pump or not. Most likely just the lines. Might be able to lift it high enough to work under the front without removing anything extra.

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

I did mine when I replaced my leaking composite valve covers with the GT500 aluminum valve covers. I figured I'd dump the new parts in there while I had things apart, anyway.

It's not a hard job, just a bear. I can't speak for anything related to DI, but the clearance for bolts at the rear of the ending is very, very tight. You're not getting a socket, plus a swivel on there, however, I found these low profile socket adapters at Harbor Freight, and they were pretty perfect to tighten the back bolts on the valve covers. Their website looks borked right now, but they're basically a male ratchet head without a ratchet. You put it into a socket, then use an open ended wrench on the adapter to turn the socket.

You definitely need new valve cover gaskets, and I'd honestly recommend the GT500 valve covers, if you can find them for a decent price. They'll include the new valve cover gaskets, as well.

JR

 

[ice445]

I did mine when I replaced my leaking composite valve covers with the GT500 aluminum valve covers. I figured I'd dump the new parts in there while I had things apart, anyway.

It's not a hard job, just a bear. I can't speak for anything related to DI, but the clearance for bolts at the rear of the ending is very, very tight. You're not getting a socket, plus a swivel on there, however, I found these low profile socket adapters at Harbor Freight, and they were pretty perfect to tighten the back bolts on the valve covers. Their website looks borked right now, but they're basically a male ratchet head without a ratchet. You put it into a socket, then use an open ended wrench on the adapter to turn the socket.

You definitely need new valve cover gaskets, and I'd honestly recommend the GT500 valve covers, if you can find them for a decent price. They'll include the new valve cover gaskets, as well.

JR

Unfortunately you can't use GT500 covers on a gen 3 5.0 because of the injection pump. I know mmr makes a nice set of billet covers but that's the only option I know of and they ain't cheap

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

Unfortunately you can't use GT500 covers on a gen 3 5.0 because of the injection pump. I know mmr makes a nice set of billet covers but that's the only option I know of and they ain't cheap

I didn't realize that. The Voodoo and Predator aren't DI?

JR

 

[ice445]

I didn't realize that. The Voodoo and Predator aren't DI?

JR

Nope, FP stuck with port only for those engines for whatever reason

 

[engineermike]

The gdi pump does need to be pulled but it’s pretty easy. Also, remove the battery, K brace, and the wall between the battery and the engine compartment. You’ll thank me later. The solenoids can be replaced without pull the front of the engine apart.

 

[Houdinii_5.0]

Just an update. Replaced the solenoids and car idles perfectly again. Drivers side was very straightforward. On the passenger side valve cover I just lifted the front of the cover enough to replace the solenoid and bolted it back down. Didn’t want to fight the HPFP and all my fuel system lines.

 

[ice445]

Just an update. Replaced the solenoids and car idles perfectly again. Drivers side was very straightforward. On the passenger side valve cover I just lifted the front of the cover enough to replace the solenoid and bolted it back down. Didn’t want to fight the HPFP and all my fuel system lines.

I'm glad that cheat worked and you're back on the road

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