Time for sway bars.

[Dave TBG]

GT350 (not R) would also be a good option.

Hmmm, that one I've got in my notes, FR3Z-5A772-G, I still need to find the bushings (for some reason I never wrote it down).
So I've removed the FP kit from the list, it's going to be BMR ($220) or GT350R ($171) in front and PP1 (which looks to be the same as EBPP) or GT350 in the rear.

Based on measured rates the BMR rear bar on soft is actually softer than the R bar. The strano bar is a nice in between the GT PP and many aftermarket bars on soft.

Brian, I believe that spreadsheet that was posted earlier was your work? The rates shown seem to be at odds with the statement above, or am I misunderstanding something?

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[Dave TBG]

Hey TBG, you need to post at least one pic. Looks like she’s part of the family.

Only thing I have handy. That was the day I brought the Mustang home, the Porsche hasn't moved since.

 

[TeeLew]

You make it pretty easy to understand why I want to upgrade the front. I'm only having trouble when it comes to the idea that my tiny, base EB rear bar is enough for anything. I'd planned to upgrade both parts and my concern was getting the right balance between the 2, I'm struggling to wrap my brain around the idea that the rear needs nothing.

There are other tools to find balance other than just bars. You can do a lot of good work with alignment (camber, caster, toe) and tire pressures. Bars are nice, because they're easy to understand and effective, but at the end of the day, the tire is what actually touches the road.

 

[Dave TBG]

There are other tools to find balance other than just bars. You can do a lot of good work with alignment (camber, caster, toe) and tire pressures. Bars are nice, because they're easy to understand and effective, but at the end of the day, the tire is what actually touches the road.

Yup, there are plenty of tools and I plan to use them all. Today though, it's the bars.

 

[pike1346]

Certainly not the info I was hoping for. I do still have the bushings, this round of parts is intended to be a few, simple to install parts. No alignment involved, jackstands in the driveway kind of stuff. I'm planning for the sways, lower k-brace and maybe rear upper shock mounts if I can stretch the budget that far. I'd like to add bearings at some point in the future (I'm not familiar with Superpro bushings, how do they compare?) But it won't be part of this upgrade. To be honest, I never really considered swapping the diff for a Torsen. Looks like there may be one or two more stages than I'd originally had in mind. Then again, this car's mission is "fun commuter vehicle," I may need to reevaluate my plans.

Do new rear upper shock mounts really do anything. I have heard about this upgrade a few times on the forum, but cannot wrap my head around why a new mount would do anything. Please help me understand what upgraded mounts do.

Thanks

 

[CTH621]

Is it true that if one is only on lowering springs (mine being BMR handling sp083) and FP track dampers, then it's advisable to just go FULL STIFF on aftermarket swaybars like the Eibach ones? Some are saying this is to compensate for the low spring rates of all lowering springs.

I'm experiencing corner entry understeer and I'm on Eibach front bar on medium setting and stock non-PP GT rear bar. Trac-loc oem differential. 305 square RE71R. -4 camber front, -3 rear.

 

[CTH621]

Back your cambers down to -3-3.2 and -1.8-2.

What's your toe settings? I'd still keep the bar on medium.

Hi Brian. Zero toe front. 1/16 in each side at the back. I was on -3 front, -2 rear previously but the outer shoulders got chewed up fast (even the rear tires). It's even now. Under/oversteer balance was the same even if I put more camber on both axles now. Hot pressures of 34 all around. I also cut about 0.75 seconds on the -4/-3 camber setting.

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