Thinking about a built shortblock

[80FoxCoupe]

I respect your opinion, though very conservative.

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[crcpdx]

I respect your opinion, though very conservative.

I agree 800hp on the motor is no.problem with good gas and tune. Anything over 700 HP and my $ would go into the transmission.

 

[Stymee]

I agree 800hp on the motor is no.problem with good gas and tune. Anything over 700 HP and my $ would go into the transmission.

We weren’t taking 800HP


We’re taking 800RW, that’s close to 1000 flywheel, ridiculous on a stock short block for any longevity drag racing it

650RW is 780 flywheel and I agree, fuel it correctly with good tuning and add opg/cs it should stay together

 

[80FoxCoupe]

I agree 800hp on the motor is no.problem with good gas and tune. Anything over 700 HP and my $ would go into the transmission.

That's what I would do as well.

 

[crcpdx]

We weren’t taking 800HP


We’re taking 800RW, that’s close to 1000 flywheel, ridiculous on a stock short block for any longevity drag racing it

650RW is 780 flywheel and I agree, fuel it correctly with good tuning and add opg/cs it should stay together

I hear what your saying, I just don't agree. Not sure anyone is right or wrong. We could both find plenty of examples to.support our opinions. Comes down to what you believe and what your comfortable with. With drag racing nothing is bullet proof. You make enough passes things are going to break.

 

[Stymee]

I hear what your saying, I just don't agree. Not sure anyone is right or wrong. We could both find plenty of examples to.support our options. Comes done to what you believe and what your comfortable with. With drag racing nothing is bullet proof. You made enough passes things are going to break.

Fair enough

 

[ahl395]

Check out JPC Racing/RGR Engines. This is the route I'm going. Rated for 1100 and only $4750. Heard nothing but good things about RGR. Very similar to the Aluminator but cheaper.

http://www.jpcracing.com/rgr-built-5-0-coyote-short-block-rated-1100-hp/

 

[robmustang201528]

Do you race? What's it run?

I do rolls. 40 and 60. 60 for right now until I get a tire. 60-150

 

[EFI]

Check out JPC Racing/RGR Engines. This is the route I'm going. Rated for 1100 and only $4750. Heard nothing but good things about RGR. Very similar to the Aluminator but cheaper.

http://www.jpcracing.com/rgr-built-5-0-coyote-short-block-rated-1100-hp/

Just a quick comment on that, the pricing of $4750 is with the buyer supplying their own block and crank...so basically you're paying nearly $5000 for rods, pistons and bearings.

With the aluminator, you get an entire new shortblock. You can sell your OEM shortblock (if in good condition) and the end net cost will be alot less than the RGR unit. Plus no downtime, you can order the shortblock and install it the same day you take yours out. Going the RGR route, you have to take the engine out, strip it, ship it and wait for it to come back which could be weeks or months all the while your car just sits.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing RGR in any way, but if you're looking at it from a purely cost and function standpoint, the Aluminator is a better choice than RGR. If you have the time, and have the funds, RGR all the way in that case.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Just a quick comment on that, the pricing of $4750 is with the buyer supplying their own block and crank...so basically you're paying nearly $5000 for rods, pistons and bearings.

With the aluminator, you get an entire new shortblock. You can sell your OEM shortblock (if in good condition) and the end net cost will be alot less than the RGR unit. Plus no downtime, you can order the shortblock and install it the same day you take yours out. Going the RGR route, you have to take the engine out, strip it, ship it and wait for it to come back which could be weeks or months all the while your car just sits.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing RGR in any way, but if you're looking at it from a purely cost and function standpoint, the Aluminator is a better choice than RGR. If you have the time, and have the funds, RGR all the way in that case.

Yep...

 

[SolarFlare]

Motors can go at any time. I’ve been racing hard for 3years at 580, low 600, high 600 and mid 700s. Motor still healthy according to oil lab results and compression tests. Too bad M6G isn’t racing vid friendly. Gen 2 proven to last as long as maintenance and common sense is there.

 

[[email protected]]

100% correct

I laugh at all these 850RW Stock engine guys, do they race the car? Or is it a dyno queen that goes to car shows, 650RW on a stock coyote is realistic but once u start pushing 750RW imho its a accident waiting to happen

Sure running E85 helps a lot as does OPG/CS for longevity but again the stock pistons r weak, if I were to build a 800RW Coyote it would be a built engine

I made 850whp for over a year on my stock gen 2 with oil pump gears revving to 8700rpm.

 

[nobgob]

Just curious, how much rwhp would it take to run 8.20's at 3,800 lbs?

 

[olaosunt]

Or you could have a short block built using the new 5.2 predator block - $2300 or Gen 3 coyote $900.

Crank - Boss $300 or upgrade to 5.2- $1100.


Pistons/rods/bearing/main studs ~$1500 -$2500 depending on options .
https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-2...tons-manley-h-beam-connecting-rods-combo.html

I scored the Manley Tuff rods / Mahle 2618 pistons(with rings) for a total of about $1500 during recent sales . Minus $100 If you do H rods.
Add $600 for I beams .
$100 for rod bearings . $300 if you add main studs although my engine builder says bolts are fine in most cases .

billet OPG/CS -$400(including pump)

if you pay to have it assembled(includes balancing crank) ~ $700.


if you add it all , less than $4000 will get you a very nice block assembled similar to the Alluminator or better .Most engine builders will charge you $4600-$5500 for the “basic “ “street” build good for 1000whp.
https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-3...-coyote-short-block.html?ref=category:1268152

https://www.livernoismotorsports.com/ENGINES-SHORT-LONG-BLOCKS


http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=614


If you have the time you can knock off $1200 by reusing your crank and back if good .


if you want to upgrade to the stronger predator block add $1300 .That would still be at or less than $6K for a predator type block. Add another $1100 for the 5.2 crank but you are getting up there now ... could still be less than $7K buf longer a “budget “ build .

For best combo add the I beams and you are almost “bullet proof” ... we all know there is no such thing .

 

[robmustang201528]

I made 850whp for over a year on my stock gen 2 with oil pump gears revving to 8700rpm.

And I broke a ring land making 670 on 12lbs with Lund a year ago shifting at 7000 on a gen2 block with oil pump and crank sprocket gears.I haven't heard of oil pump gear or crank sprocket failure but what I found out through personal experiences and research is that the coyote pistions are the weak point. @[email protected] in your post you put "I made 850hp" past tense. Is the motor still together or did it go?

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