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The cost of my new engine + install

Robert3487

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My mechanic just finished the install of my new engine. The bottom end was damaged so it had to get an entire engine. They didn't tear it down to see what was actually damaged but 2 different mechanics told me it needs an entire engine after the compression and leak down tests.The mechanic moved my mods over; intake manifold, injectors, intake and installed my headers and roush exhaust. I just wanted to show the cost in case anyone else needs to have the same work done, the price seemed pretty reasonable for a new engine. I know this post (had it already existed on here) would have answered a lot of my questions since I was stressing about the cost of a new engine which basically took my supercharger money lol.

Aside from this he replaced my headers while the engine was out and my initial thoughts are it sounds like complete shit. I have texas speed headers with a texas speed x pipe going into Roush axle backs. Low rpms are fine, upper rpms seem fine but I haven't taken it too high. Mid range is absolutely embarrassing. Soo much rasp that I prefer not to drive it like that. Now i'm looking at the Magnaflow Tru-X to quiet it down. It sounds like 2 muffler delete hondas racing with all that rasp :crackup:. I'm still waiting to break in the motor before doing some pulls on it to see how the headers feel but I'm a long way away from that 500 miles. I have about 25 on it now, I may hit the freeway for a few hours just to rack some up.


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Robert3487

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Only 8qts of oil? Did you get a new Gen 2 engine?
Yeah its a Gen 2, I was really curious what would be required to go up to a gen 3 and what parts would need to be swapped out as well as the legal aspects of doing so (I live in CA) but since I plan on supercharging it I figured I may as well put the engine it came with.



Any idea what caused the failure with original engine?
Yes, low oil condition at high RPMs but it wasn't low enough to trigger the low oil light. My first mechanic said because I was using royal purple it could have burned much quicker so I just kept the manufacturer's suggested oil back in it. No one could explain to me how it got so low but no warning was given. Needless to say i'll be checking the level every 2 weeks and changing it every 2 months lol. Small investment to make to prevent another major unnecessary purchase. 😅
 

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Yes, low oil condition at high RPMs but it wasn't low enough to trigger the low oil light. My first mechanic said because I was using royal purple it could have burned much quicker so I just kept the manufacturer's suggested oil back in it. No one could explain to me how it got so low but no warning was given. Needless to say i'll be checking the level every 2 weeks and changing it every 2 months lol. Small investment to make to prevent another major unnecessary purchase. 😅
Hello; Good that you will be checking the oil often. Were it me I would check much more often from the first few weeks. Once you get an idea of how the oil use goes you might check less often. The oil warning light, to me, is too late to help.

Keep an eye on the temps for a while. It is not uncommon for some extra friction and heat in a new build. I did a rebuild on a high mileage engine and had it start to run hot. Wound up putting a new radiator with more cores. Just a thought.

Good luck
 

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Why not spend a little more and go with stronger internals?
 
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Robert3487

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Why not spend a little more and go with stronger internals?
I explored that option as well, I spoke with Shaun over at AED in Sacramento and he sells short blocks that he calls "budget blocks" that are good for 1000 horsepower. He was the first one I tried to work with and he actually spent some time on the phone with me explaining some of the things I should be looking for depending on my overall goals. Unfortunately he was unable to do the work because he was short handed at his shop due to covid. So he told me he would sell me the block but he could not do the work. Other mechanics said it I needed a new bottom end so I couldn't go with just the short block. Both mechanics recommended just getting the new engine from Ford.

I was going back and forth on it for a long time and I talked to one more guy in southern California and he was ready to build my engine with stronger internals but the cost for the job front to back was going to run me about 14-17k for an NA engine. He was going to port and polish heads and all that but then I wouldn't pass smog. I decided to throw the stock engine back in and keep the other 7k he would have charged me to grab a supercharger. If I had a little more patience I probably would have waited for the supercharger build but he was talking 4 month lead time just for the pistons that he said he would only use manley. He was very particular about the parts he would be using which quickly brought the price up.
 

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Nice! Thanks fer sharing!
labor number looks low on first take considering recent cost hikes..
Would have guessed:
$2400-3800 labor reasonable
$4300-4900 Gen2 long block delivered
$1000 risk management, fasteners, misc, shop space, etc
Or roughly 9.7k all in.

let it eat.
stock motors are grossly underrated for entertainment/dollar especially below 800rwhp.
 

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Looks like you found a good shop to work with!
 

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Why not spend a little more and go with stronger internals?
Hello; I was watching the PowerNation TV shows over the weekend. In one episode they built up a Coyote V8. I think they somehow picked up someone's project build and used the parts.
Best as I can recall they used some stock internal parts such as the crank. The engine eventually made just over 1000HP on their dyno. May be some of the stock internals are up to the task.
It was a sleeved engine so earlier than GEN 3, maybe Gen 2???
Here is the link to a thread i started which also has a link to the video of the build.

(2) PowerNation Coyote build. | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com
 

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As an X-Long tuber, I can sympathize with your exhaust dilemma. I was embarrassed to drive it. I had active exhaust and even in quiet mode the rasp was horrible. I did what you are deliberating and installed a Tru-X. Helped a ton.
 

NoVaGT

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My mechanic just finished the install of my new engine. The bottom end was damaged so it had to get an entire engine. They didn't tear it down to see what was actually damaged but 2 different mechanics told me it needs an entire engine after the compression and leak down tests.The mechanic moved my mods over; intake manifold, injectors, intake and installed my headers and roush exhaust. I just wanted to show the cost in case anyone else needs to have the same work done, the price seemed pretty reasonable for a new engine. I know this post (had it already existed on here) would have answered a lot of my questions since I was stressing about the cost of a new engine which basically took my supercharger money lol.

Aside from this he replaced my headers while the engine was out and my initial thoughts are it sounds like complete shit. I have texas speed headers with a texas speed x pipe going into Roush axle backs. Low rpms are fine, upper rpms seem fine but I haven't taken it too high. Mid range is absolutely embarrassing. Soo much rasp that I prefer not to drive it like that. Now i'm looking at the Magnaflow Tru-X to quiet it down. It sounds like 2 muffler delete hondas racing with all that rasp :crackup:. I'm still waiting to break in the motor before doing some pulls on it to see how the headers feel but I'm a long way away from that 500 miles. I have about 25 on it now, I may hit the freeway for a few hours just to rack some up.


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Do not wait for 500 miles.

Beat on the engine now. It needs to heat and pressure cycles
to properly seat itself.
 

NoVaGT

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Why not spend a little more and go with stronger internals?
The stock crank is good for 1000HP. I've not seen issues with bottom ends going bad unless, like the OP, low oil is the culprit. And even a stouter bottom end is going to fail if it's run dry.
 
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NoVaGT

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I think it's impressive that the OP was able to get an engine, and find someone to install it.

Things are tight on both product supply and labor right now.

Good for you OP.
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