The 25 year, 500,000 Mile Bullitt - What should I do and How Should I Plan?

[because_murica]

This is how my Bullitt looks from underneath now.
Cavities flooded with Mike Sanders grease, underbody showered with Dinitrol/Carlofon 4942, large gaps filled separately beforehand.

Nothing will rot anytime soon.

At the front of the sill, I still need to extend the wheel house liners, the ends of the sill are exposed and bombarded by anything that is picked up by the wheel.

Is Dinitrol/Carlofon 4942 similar to rubberized underbody coating? If no, disregard the below. But if yes, I would not recommend that approach. It's only a matter of time before a little chip in that coating takes on moisture and turns into a major rust issue.

I would not recommend underbody rubberized coatings, OP. I would just stick to washing the underbody once or twice a year. If you want to get serious about protection, then use something like WoolWax or Blaster Surface Shield.

Sponsored

 

[because_murica]

OP, lots of great advice in this thread about just driving the car and not worrying about it.

But, if you're serious about corrosion protection, avoid hard underbody coatings. These coatings are only great if you apply them and don't plan to drive the car ever again. If you drive the car, you WILL incur stone chips to that hard coating, and this will likely happen sooner or later:





The chemical @Nightmonkey suggested is marketed as a "hard wax". I have no idea if that means it's similar to a hard rubberized coating in any way (like Ziebart), but if it is, I would avoid Dinitrol as well.

 

[Nightmonkey]

The chemical @Nightmonkey suggested is marketed as a "hard wax". I have no idea if that means it's similar to a hard rubberized coating in any way (like Ziebart), but if it is, I would avoid Dinitrol as well.

Dinitrol/Carlofon 4942 is a wax with additives.

From the description of the leading dealer of corrosion protection products over here :

Dinitrol 4942 metallic (also known as Tuff Kote Dinol) underbody protection wax is a very elastic wax-based underbody protection.

Color brown.​

​

Very abrasion resistant due to metal particles.​

​

Cannot be painted over.​

​

Very fast drying, non-adhesive.​

​

Can be applied in different layer thicknesses.​

​

Very tough elastic and impact resistant, very good rust protection, very good aging stability, very good stone chip protection.​

Tip: For pre-sealing of folds/crevices and light rust build-up, Dinitrol ML can be used; for heavier rust, it is better to use Owatrol Oil or Oxyblock. All three products also regenerate old underbody protection.

Is actually used in this form in the off-road sector.
For those for whom the original appearance of the under body of a classic car is more important (e.g. the red on the underbody of historic Mustangs), there are clear waxes without additives. But this is something for weekend drivers.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2VD5fM6pto

The problem there is apparently not only the wrong underbody protection, but also that no cavity preservation was done.
That frame is rusted from the inside out.

 

[Cobra Jet]

For those who drive a lot, I can see 500k+ being attainable. As long as the car is maintained, you can get many miles out of any vehicle.

But where the question really lies is:
Are you that type of person who WILL keep a car "forever" and not get bored with it? Most say they will, but most never do.


For instance, there is the world record setting 1966 Volvo where the original owner put on 3.2 MILLION miles....
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/20...-joined-the-volvo-car-usa-heritage-collection

Sponsored