Have you re-checked the jam nuts?Sounds aren't gone, lots of clunks in the rear end during low speed turning. hmmm
Sunshade did my tinting. They cost more but do the BEST job. http://www.sunshadeintroy.comIm in SE Michigan with a Oxford White with PP. I want to do tinting. Where did you have yours done and assume your happy with it?
How is it having the windshield tinted?
I've had the car up and everything apart over and over and over and OVER AGAIN to try and find the source of these clunk sounds that developed after installing the BMR toe-links and cradle bushings. Still no luck. :frusty:Have you re-checked the jam nuts?
I usually recommend putting some blue loc tite on the jam nuts on most suspension components. If you find they're lose, put some loc tite on it.
If all of the bolts are tight, and the bearings on the TR005 do not have excessive slop, then the clunk is more than likely from the moving / rotating parts attached to the cradle, like the halfshafts, driveshaft, and pinion assembly.I've had the car up and everything apart over and over and over and OVER AGAIN to try and find the source of these clunk sounds that developed after installing the BMR toe-links and cradle bushings. Still no luck. :frusty:
Did you torque them with the suspension compressed or up in the air?I've had the car up and everything apart over and over and over and OVER AGAIN to try and find the source of these clunk sounds that developed after installing the BMR toe-links and cradle bushings. Still no luck. :frusty:
Torqued the cradle bolts with the car on ramps. SO suspension compressed.Did you torque them with the suspension compressed or up in the air?
That's the next test for me to do: stock toe-links back on. I'll let you know KellyIf all of the bolts are tight, and the bearings on the TR005 do not have excessive slop, then the clunk is more than likely from the moving / rotating parts attached to the cradle, like the halfshafts, driveshaft, and pinion assembly.
The Cradle bushings absolutely, positively, will not / cannot clunk. So, if you want to do a quick test - you could remove the TR005 and throw the OEM Toe Links on, just to try out process of elimination.
Before removing the BMR toe links I tried one more thing. I re-locktighted the inboard bolts on the Toelinks and tightened them well beyond the 150ft/lbs that is the max of my torque wrench. I used floor jacks to tighten these bastards as tight as possible then waited 3 hours to drive the car hoping the lock tight would dry.you could remove the TR005 and throw the OEM Toe Links on, just to try out process of elimination.