Switching from 5W-20 to 5W-30. Best Oil?

[engineermike]

It all comes from crude ;)

....well, ok, not the veg-based stuff.

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[K4fxd]

When you have a high compression, lumpy cam, air cooled V twin and beat the snot out of it.

Get the oil tested and it always comes back good, I call that good oil. 100% synthetic or not.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/?se...abs.net/Bstone/(S(4wtfed45layxuiqbkeqpcpbf))/

 

[jwt]

I always thought that it was the shearing action of cams etc that beat up the oil but that could be me rehashing an old wives tale. And from a longevity perspective of oil I would always be more worried about pollutant build up, acids etc. That said, DAF diesel trucks were running super long (20,000 miles if memory serves) oil change intervals using monster sets of inline oil filters and plenty of oil cooling back in the eighties.

So maybe the combination of limited fuel wash on the bores and into the sump, better tolerances, better filters and better additives particularly the detergents and acid neutralizers all help more now in modern fuel injected engines built far better.

I still think you can't beat a regular oil change with synthetic to combat 95%-98% of all oil related issues and all the rest of the branding additive wars are relegated to 2% to 5% of effectiveness.

 

[engineermike]

Sooo the shearing effect does break down particularly the polymeric viscosity index improvers. Some of the VII’s have better shear thinning resistance than others. Many oil specs have a limit to the viscosity loss over the life of the oil for this reason.

There are at least three other ways we, the consumer, can reduce the potential for shear thinning.
1) Choose an oil with a higher quality base oil. Group 3+ and 4 naturally have a flatter viscosity vs temp curve so they require less VII to achieve a dual grade. For instance, a GTL base pennzoil probably requires almost no VII in their 10w30. Mercury racing uses no VII in their 25w50 to ensure no shear thinning.
2) Minimize the viscosity “split”. 5w20 will generally have less VII than 0w20.
3) Change oil more frequently.

 

[K4fxd]

I was worried about shear thinning with the 10w-60.

It always tested good, even after 7500 miles in an air-cooled V-twin that gets revved to 6000 RPM regularly.

So whatever base Liqua moly uses, and how they make such a large viscosity range, works.

 

[Elp_jc]

In other markets that's the standard cap. It's only in the US where they want you to use 5W20.

Typically in hotter markets, just like where I live (TX)... so I joined the 5/30 cap club too (see below). Ha ha

I've been running [M1] 0W-30 for the last 40k miles in my Coyote and I haven't had a single problem. It doesn't burn or leak a drop of oil.

Great to hear. I switched to M1 0/30 since mile 1,128, and my engine also liked it a lot (2,3xx miles so far).

 

[Coyote Red]

You missed his point entirely

Billy J. is a Ford Performance driver or was.

 

[hackney]

I had a free oil change and had dealer install 5w30 (since approved in owners manual), no problem. Also i get my motorcraft synthetic blend either 5w20 or 5w30 at Walmart for <$20 for 5 quart container. And i change every 5,000 mikes. Not recommending any oil for others, just providing info.

Yes,5w-30 is the way to go.Ford Australia,advised & changed it from the 5w-20(which is way to thin) to 30.5w-30 seems the sweet spot.Mine has never used a drop(2017 FM GT auto)

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