Sway bar end links - should I replace with aftermarket?

[Ugly John]

I have a GT PP, with a Strano rear bar added, running in FS. I've read that the end links are a weak point, and with the Cyber Monday sales, I'm wondering if that would be a good thing to change. How weak are the factory end links?

If so, can I only change the end links on the rear with the aftermarket sway? Or can I also replace the front end links?

Also, are adjustable end links permitted? I'm looking at the BMRs....

http://www.lethalperformance.com/bmr-2015-mustang-rear-sway-bar-end-link-kit-black-hammertone.html

Any other suggestions? I've got new shocks and struts coming, so when I install them it would be a great time to replace the end links.

Sponsored

 

[BMR Tech]

You can do the front, or the rear, or both - without issue.

However, technically, it is best to make sure both the front AND the rear bars are neutral...which can often make it necessary to do both F and R.

As for strength - I have already had quite a few people bend the factory links. We have also damaged a few sets in house on our cars too.

If you only want to get one set....put the car in the air and with your weight in the car, have someone check and see which bar (front or rear) has more preload. Whichever one has more preload, I would do those adjustable links first.

 

[NightmareMoon]

13.7 ANTI-ROLL (SWAY) BARS
A. Substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-roll bar and supporting
hardware (brackets, endlinks, bushings, etc.) is permitted. The use of any
bushing material is permitted. A bushing may be implemented as a bearing.
B. Substitution, addition, or removal of anti-roll bars may serve no other purpose
than that of an anti-roll bar.
C. No modification to the body, frame, or other components to accommodate
anti-roll bar addition or substitution is allowed except for the drilling of
holes for mounting bolts. Non-standard lateral members which connect
between the brackets for the bar are not permitted.

Sounds like you can only do endlinks on the one bar you've changed. Personally I don't think its a significant upgrade unless you're bending the stock ones.

 

[BMR Tech]

Here is a nice new stocker for ya. ;)

 

[Ugly John]

Here is a nice new stocker for ya. ;)

Those are the fronts, and because of the length, it's not surprising that they buckled. Have you also seen the rears buckle or bend? Do you have photos?

 

[Ugly John]

Sounds like you can only do endlinks on the one bar you've changed. Personally I don't think its a significant upgrade unless you're bending the stock ones.

That's the way I was reading it too, but wanted a second opinion. Looking at the photos from BMR, it looks like this might be a bigger problem with the fronts than the rear, and since I'm only running a stiffer rear bar I may not need to replace at this time. Plus, the Strano bar isn't as stiff as some other bars, and I have it on the softest setting right now, so it's only slightly stiffer than stock.

 

[wildcatgoal]

I have done AutoX and HPDE roadcourse with the OEM sway bar links with Steeda sway bars and my car handles great and I was not gentle (I was on street summer tires, though, so relatively less pain and suffering for the end links to endure). Also to the drag strip a lot (although just do it to work on shifting, not times). None of my vertical links have bent. Bearings are fine. Let's be honest, it's not a common thing to happen.

That said, if you were to sneak a look through your rear wheel, for example, of your lowered car while it's on the ground - especially with low springs like Steeda Ultralites or Eibach Sportlines - you will see how the OEM sway bar is cocked at a pretty steep angle vs. the ground. That alone doesn't necessarily preload the bar (assuming equal weight on both sides of the car) but it does alter (reduce, essentially) the effectiveness of the bar, which works best with the brackets more-or-less parallel to level ground.

Adjustable links allow you to corner balance the car with your body weight in the driver seat (eliminating preload on the bars) and get the sway bar oriented properly. Additionally, they are stronger (the bearings probably and certainly the shaft) than the OEM end links, so they wont bend as pictured above (unless you are an animal). They are not necessary, IMHO, if you are just canyon carving. Do expect minor additional NVH with most spherical end links (which all aftermarket units are). The bigger the bearing, the less likely it will make any noise. Also need to make sure the bolt that goes through the sway bar is not smaller than the hole in the sway bar bracket. The bolt should be just as snug as the OEM end links' bolt. Any less and it will eventually knock around.

 

[Competition Orange]

Fronts bend as shown above, mine are slightly bent with stock bar. Rears are so short, I can't imagine needing to replace them due to bends. With aftermarket bars I still have oem rear links.

As stated above, if you're going to that level (you're not based on your question) then yes.

 

[jdub.csu]

The only benefit to replacing the rears for FS is the ease of changing the adjustments (imho)

I also read those rules as you can only change the links on the bar you replaced.

 

[BMR Tech]

Those are the fronts, and because of the length, it's not surprising that they buckled. Have you also seen the rears buckle or bend? Do you have photos?

I have not seen the rears bend/buckle yet....but I am sure it's coming.

If and when it happens, I will share.

 

[ForTehNguyen]

what would be the proper procedure to adjust sway bars end links? I keep seeing the sway bar has to be parallel to the ground but theres no way the ends of the sway bar can be parallel on these cars.

 

[Grintch]

Why do sway bars need to be parallel? Panhard bar, yes, Suspension arm, sometimes, sway bar, never heard of then needing to be parallel to the ground. It's a torsion spring, why does the orientation matter?

 

[MtnBiker]

what would be the proper procedure to adjust sway bars end links? I keep seeing the sway bar has to be parallel to the ground but theres no way the ends of the sway bar can be parallel on these cars.

Does anyone have a picture of a properly "leveled" front sway bar? I'm not sure which part of the bar would be level. I'm thinking that adjusting the front sway on a loaded suspension would result in the end link attachment point being parallel with the centerline of the sway bar where it sits on the bushing. In other words, don't look at all the funky angles on the bar, just look at where the sway bar attaches to the link and where it comes out of the chassis into the wheel well. And then level those two points. Or am I thinking of that wrong?

 

[boardkat]

your endlinks should be adjusted to the length required for the desired corner weight - usually, you're aiming for no preload (unless you've run out of reasonable ride height adjustment variations). the only way you're going to know that is if you corner balance on leveled scales, otherwise, it's just guesswork (and most likely wrong).

 

[Rig Dawg]

Yes - replace them!

I just replaced all 4 corners with the BMR units... and found one of the front OEM units bent.

Sponsored