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street/track brake pad

NightmareMoon

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i respect and appreciate the input from the above members. certainly with brakes, caution is of paramount importance. however, i think my point is best illustrated with 2 simple questions:
1)would a gs1/r10 combo have better braking than an an r10 only setup on the street?
2)would a gs1/r10 combo have better braking than a gs1 only setup on track?

i think the answer to both would probably be ā€˜yesā€™
1) is a big fat no, it won't perform better on the street than an R10 setup after you've glazed your one GS1 pad on a previous track session, which ruins the braking force from them. The only way to recover the braking performance from a badly glazed GS1 pad is to remove it and sand the glazing off of it (hopefully while keeping the surface flat). Its a PITA. The R10 are probably fine on the street. I street R12 fronts these days (most of the time) and noise/dust is a much bigger issue than cold braking force, which really only affects the first stop in a drive.

2) GS1 are not recommended by GLOC for the track, so you're going against their explicit instructions and basically asking if running one track pad is better than no track pads, and the answer is that you need two track pads to be safe. One terrible thing can be better than another terrible thing and they can still both be terrible. The R10 would work ok, while the GS1 pad performance drops significantly on the track, so if you try to run very hard, you're basically relying on one pad to not fail. Not very safe.

I'll change your #2 question slightly and say that its worst than stock brembo pads on the track, which do pretty well. The GS1 glaze pretty easily by comparison.

You're over simplifying and at this point, just call the engineers at GLOC and see what they tell you.
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NightmareMoon

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For a street pad you can choose a pad material that works well at low temps and wears well and dusts the minimum. Those pads have no place on track.

On the track its not entirely about friction performance. (You only need enough friction performance to lock up the brakes, and even street pads do that fine for a handful of stops)

But on track its also about heat tolerance, and what physically happens to the pads if you run them too hot. Glazing transforms the surface into a shiney lower friction surface, which is permanent until it wears down or until you resurface them. Some pads crumble when too hot. Some may generally hold up physically, but may wear very quickly.

Your #2 question shouldn't be relative to GS1 pads, it should be relative to your braking needs on track. Is this wacky combo going to slow you down enough? No, not after that GS1 pad starts to glaze or fail with repeated heavy braking that push it well outside its temperature range and glazing builds up across the entire friction surface.

On track you want to trust your brakes. You can't run fast lap times if your not confident your brakes will slow you down. Unpredicted brake fade is a hazard to yourself, and everyone around you. You want to plow into somebody from behind as your brakes go away on lap 3?
 

TopJimmyCooks

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Thornclaw,
Whatever application you drive your car in, you should expect a certain about of heat to need to be removed in order to stop the car (converting motion to heat). When on track you are removing much more motion, much more frequently. As such, the right pad makes a difference. When you look at the specs for the different pads you can see that they are optimized for a heat range relative to the application they are designed for. In the case of the R10 vs. the GS-1, the R10 can remove at least 675 degF more heat than the GS-1. Dusting and noise are irrelevant, necessary, byproducts. Deviating from the product's intended purpose will only lead to problems. In the case of mixing pads, the GS-1 will have burned to a crisp while the R10 is in its optimum operating range.
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NeverSatisfied

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Then you have meā€¦ I've piled about 20k miles on my car running GLOC R18/R12 year round including sub freezing temps. brand new GS1 still sitting in the box.

I'm running titanium shims so that may help with noise, but they're not as noisy as the same combo in other cars Iā€™ve run them.

You learn to adapt the braking pressure with your foot. Just be prepared theyā€™re more on/off when ice cold, but highly tolerable once they have a little heat.

I think R18 are the cats ass on track so I put up with them on the street. Iā€™ve run stock/R8/10/12/18 all in front on 200tw 305ā€™s
 

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TeeLew

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I think you can get a pad that's pretty good for street/autox duty, but street/track is a different deal. They make different pads for a reason.
 
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thornclaw

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after mulling this over and reading other responses, i think the following is true:
1)gs1/r10 combo would likely be better than r10 only on the street. higher cof, quieter and less dusty

2)the problem would happen when you track the combo setup. when a pad reaches its max temp it starts to fade. naturally, we start to slow down when this happens. this limits brake temp and saves your pads. with the r10/gs1 combo, you would still be pushing it hard after the temp limit of the gs1 was passed because the r10 would be working just fine. this would destroy the gs1. bottom line is you would probably need to replace the gs1ā€™s after every session.
 

NeverSatisfied

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after mulling this over and reading other responses, i think the following is true:
1)gs1/r10 combo would likely be better than r10 only on the street. higher cof, quieter and less dusty

2)the problem would happen when you track the combo setup. when a pad reaches its max temp it starts to fade. naturally, we start to slow down when this happens. this limits brake temp and saves your pads. with the r10/gs1 combo, you would still be pushing it hard after the temp limit of the gs1 was passed because the r10 would be working just fine. this would destroy the gs1. bottom line is you would probably need to replace the gs1ā€™s after every session.
youā€™ve way overthought this. Either swap pads, deal with brake fade, or drive noisy brakes on the streetā€” your call.
 

tosha

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gs1/r10 combo would likely be better than r10 only on the street. higher cof, quieter and less dusty
It will not, sorry.. it will be just as noisy and aside from noise, r10 front / r8 rear work totally fine on the street.
 

Oakley

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Stock brembo pads is the answer :)
this is kinda what i'm thinnking. i don't like the dust but i sure do like being able to stop from deep into triple digits without an extended cooldown cruise.
 

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tosha

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this is kinda what i'm thinnking. i don't like the dust but i sure do like being able to stop from deep into triple digits without an extended cooldown cruise.
Dust is easy to handle if you ceramic coat the wheels. It costs like 50 bucks and 2 hours with beer on a warm saturday. Lasts at least a year.
 

bnightstar

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after mulling this over and reading other responses, i think the following is true:
1)gs1/r10 combo would likely be better than r10 only on the street. higher cof, quieter and less dusty

2)the problem would happen when you track the combo setup. when a pad reaches its max temp it starts to fade. naturally, we start to slow down when this happens. this limits brake temp and saves your pads. with the r10/gs1 combo, you would still be pushing it hard after the temp limit of the gs1 was passed because the r10 would be working just fine. this would destroy the gs1. bottom line is you would probably need to replace the gs1ā€™s after every session.

You literally have 3 options:

1) run oem pads (Ferodo DS2500) with PS4s or other street tires and don't chase lap times.

2) Run track brake pads R12/R10 or higher on the track and get used to noise/dust on the street.

3) Run GS-1 pads on street with R12/R10 on the same rotors for track and change pads.

Personally if you are not chasing NASA Nationals there is no reason to go from option 1 down to the other options besides pad costs.
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