Strategies for makign the 10r80 live at 700-800rwhp ?

[deanm11]

I will be eventually putting on a Stage 2 PX-1 Procharger kit on my '20 GT, after I get some of the season at least run as FBO.

I am aiming to, even with the power curve of the procharger, try to have a meaningful bump in mid-range, say in around 4000rpm torque. That might be achieved in part by pulley-ing for a bit higher boost than otherwise intended and then limiting rpms to closer to stock or a bit lower, say 7200-7400rpm.

With that, at say up to 700rwhp on 93 and 800rwhp on E85, what strategies could be employed to save the trans. My ideas:

- Possibly never allow a WOT 6-7 shift. It seems 7th is the most likely to slip.. but against that, holding 6th gear longer potentially to do that takes you to max boost and max power in 6th.. unless you really cap it hard at that 7200-7400rpm. I think you might only lose a 10th in the quarter by holding steady near 130mph which you might hit at the 1000' mark

- Reduce torque/power at dangerous points by purposely pulling timing (is slip actually more likely at torque peak ?)

- No drag mode

- Tune in a bit more line pressure / increase 'fill time' or whatever it is called

Any thoughts? I will still consider biting the bullet and doing at least frictions in the trans upfront. But it also seems if you wait to see if you get that first bit of slip, it's no big deal to just build the trans then.

Sponsored

 

[engineermike]

If you have access to the calibration it would be very easy to reduce torque in 7th. You specify a maximum torque per gear which is usually 1500 ftlb. I believe it modulates throttle blade to achieve this.

Another consideration is skipping 7th and shifting 6th to 8th. Not sure if it’s a good idea though. It would drop from 7500 to 5000 so might want to raise shift point of this is done.

 

[deanm11]

I tune my own in hptuners, so can do. I forgot that was available by gear- easy enough.

 

[TGGT]

I also do my own tuning with hp. I’ve got it setup to pull timing on the shift. I go from 21-22 degrees down to about 7-9 for the shift. I’m around 900 wheel and over a year on a stock 10r80

 

[Jackson1320]

You should not have any problem keeping a 10r80 alive at your power goals. To help you can raise the pressure a little to keep it from slipping and shorten how long it has to shift to save some wear on the clutches

 

[EFI]

Step 1: keep it cool

Step 2: refer to step 1

Step 3: enjoy

 

[deanm11]

Thank you. Yes, I meant to include on strategy as a) never "hot-lapping" and b) Possibly just choosing not to hammer on the car above say 80degrees ambient.

Are there suggestions for running the trans at cooler temps beyond that. I have read some of the monster thread on this site of the road racing efforts with additonal/external coolers..

 

[EFI]

Are there suggestions for running the trans at cooler temps beyond that.

Unless you're taking the trans apart to remove the bypass valve, the only thing you can really do is run a monster cooler in the front of the car replacing (or in line) with the OEM unit.

I wouldn't avoid running the car over a certain ambient temperature, just keep an eye on the transmission temp. If that is say 150* and it's 90* out, you are perfectly safe.

 

[engineermike]

Possibly just choosing not to hammer on the car above say 80degrees ambient.

I believe you could automate this as well using the LSPI load limit as a function of IAT. Let the car do the thinking for you ;)

 

[Woopaloop]

Lower differential gear ratio, add frictions and steels.

Sponsored