Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

S550_Newbie

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Do you know the 9 spkr amp watt rating by chance....can't find it anywhere?
I don't, I looked and looked as well and nothing. When you pull the factory speakers out they have an RMS rating on them, which is terrible, so it can't be much wattage. I think the garbage tweeters are 12 watts, the doors are 25 at most maybe. The midler and tweeter are connect on the same channel so I would guess the factory amp is between 15 - 25 watts per channel. For comparison, the Morel Tempo Ultra MKII 692's I put into my truck are 2 way components and each set takes 150 watts. I put some Sony ES 6.5 coaxial in the rear and those are rated for 90watts each.

 

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Worth spending $400 or so on Hertz mid and 6.5 plus time 9 speaker system, in your opinion?
As a loudspeaker designer it is hard for me to give basic advice when speakers are so much more complicated than most people realize.

For example, most mid-range cones have a breakup frequency that is heard as harshness in the low treble band. This can be corrected with a custom precise parametric EQ filter in the crossover program. Often this is absent because it was overlooked (or the design was rushed).

It this EQ filter exists, then changing out the mid speaker will not match it and so you are back to a source of harshness.

If the filter is missing then it is also missing for the new mid, so what have you gained?

I think the door speakers are good enough. The rear deck and center speakers are bad and ruin the sound. Therefore, disable your center speaker, and fade all the sound to the front. Then listen to see if the sound quality is acceptable to you. It is for me and I have a very expensive high end system in which I designed and built the speakers in my acoustic lab from scratch with over thirty years experience.
 

S550_Newbie

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As a loudspeaker designer it is hard for me to give basic advice when speakers are so much more complicated than most people realize.

For example, most mid-range cones have a breakup frequency that is heard as harshness in the low treble band. This can be corrected with a custom precise parametric EQ filter in the crossover program. Often this is absent because it was overlooked (or the design was rushed).

It this EQ filter exists, then changing out the mid speaker will not match it and so you are back to a source of harshness.

If the filter is missing then it is also missing for the new mid, so what have you gained?

I think the door speakers are good enough. The rear deck and center speakers are bad and ruin the sound. Therefore, disable your center speaker, and fade all the sound to the front. Then listen to see if the sound quality is acceptable to you. It is for me and I have a very expensive high end system in which I designed and built the speakers in my acoustic lab from scratch with over thirty years experience.
I find this highly ironic but music and sound is subjective.
 

S550_Newbie

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I understand. A great tip!

Perhaps first $ should go to JBL DSP 4086 that goes in same location as Ford Amp for a good budget starting point.

Since it's a vert I'm not expecting much with top down.

I feel like I need to upgrade something I the Mustang haha
That is a pretty impressive DSP for what it is. Only thing I think it is missing is an RTA.
 

S550_Newbie

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What's an RTA? What else do I have to buy to run this amp?

My sense it this will double in price LOL
Because that DSP can sum channels to other channels it helps to see what the signal looks like to know if you have a full range, factory EQ'd, or partial signal in real time. (RTA - real time analyzer) - It shows you the audio spectrum coming into the DSP and what you are sending out to each speaker. Audio Control DSP's have it built in. Even their DM-608 and DM-810 have it. It just helps to know what your dealing with and what you are sending to your speakers, AudioControl also allows you to level an EQ'd signal which is awesome.
 


S550_Newbie

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What is ironic?
That you design loud speakers and think that the factory front stage is good enough. No offense. That is why I said sound is subjective. To my ears the factory speakers are garbage in every way.
 

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That you design loud speakers and think that the factory front stage is good enough. No offense. That is why I said sound is subjective. To my ears the factory speakers are garbage in every way.
Ah, thanks for the explanation, and now your comment makes sense.

A person's listening skills improve as their system improves, and therefore they may also desire, or require, high quality sound from their car. I have very high expectations from my home system, and by contrast I keep fairly low expectations from car systems.

To my ear some (non Mustang) audio systems sound pretty good, and are therefore "good enough" for me. Those systems are not worth investing more money IMO.

Other car systems sound pretty awful, and that certainly holds true for the Mustang 9-speaker system. That system needs more bass for starters, so that is worth pursuing.

The 12-speaker (or B&O) system is better, but the audio engineers dropped the ball in two ways. First the center and rear speakers are natural distortion generators, and second, the spectral balance is way off especially in the bass.

Knowing all this, I chose to kill the output from the bad speakers and re-balance the sound for the door speakers using the controls. A free improvement.


But one universal fact is that there is much more background noise than a home system, and more distractions that divert one's attention from any deficiencies in the sound quality. This is the main reason that I aim for "good enough" in car audio.
 

S550_Newbie

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Ah, thanks for the explanation, and now your comment makes sense.

A person's listening skills improve as their system improves, and therefore they may also desire, or require, high quality sound from their car. I have very high expectations from my home system, and by contrast I keep fairly low expectations from car systems.

To my ear some (non Mustang) audio systems sound pretty good, and are therefore "good enough" for me. Those systems are not worth investing more money IMO.

Other car systems sound pretty awful, and that certainly holds true for the Mustang 9-speaker system. That system needs more bass for starters, so that is worth pursuing.

The 12-speaker (or B&O) system is better, but the audio engineers dropped the ball in two ways. First the center and rear speakers are natural distortion generators, and second, the spectral balance is way off especially in the bass.

Knowing all this, I chose to kill the output from the bad speakers and re-balance the sound for the door speakers using the controls. A free improvement.


But one universal fact is that there is much more background noise than a home system, and more distractions that divert one's attention from any deficiencies in the sound quality. This is the main reason that I aim for "good enough" in car audio.
I know what you are saying. I started with speakers that were an "improvement" over factory, then I installed some that were better and then I went full on. Now I can't go back and everything else becomes meh. The speaker differences are so vast that you start paying attention to your audio source files and if they are good enough lol. I am spoiled now, with the Focal in my stang and the Morel's in my truck. I enjoy car audio because it's a great environment for sound, like a mini sound booth.
 

djcwardog

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My base GT had only the lower door 6.5” woofer and the opening for the mid ranges found in the Premium cars was there but covered with foam. If you’re adding midrange drivers into the doors as I did, you’ll want to get a pair of wires to them. A bit of careful drilling into the door opening connector lets you get those wires through from the door and into the kick panel.

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S550_Newbie

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My base GT had only the lower door 6.5” woofer and the opening for the mid ranges found in the Premium cars was there but covered with foam. If you’re adding midrange drivers into the doors as I did, you’ll want to get a pair of wires to them. A bit of careful drilling into the door opening connector lets you get those wires through from the door and into the kick panel.

DFD4F8C1-8B7F-4E36-B61D-70D951B31170.jpeg


89DA9C84-4146-4D92-A6C5-2D4D1220970C.jpeg


267103D2-03C4-4F82-B9BD-C885C7C4793F.jpeg


E50AF3C0-4C4D-4643-AE30-301822978B9C.jpeg


062B79C3-D703-4632-BBFA-B57F18886345.jpeg
NIce, this is the only way you are ever going to get wires from the inside into the door. I see you also have "car stereo installation thumb." It's like tennis elbow but on the outside.
 

djcwardog

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NIce, this is the only way you are ever going to get wires from the inside into the door. I see you also have "car stereo installation thumb." It's like tennis elbow but on the outside.
Yes, my thumbs and fingers develop skin cracks, an autoimmune dermatological disorder actually requiring topical meds for now. Hurts! Anyway, I also carefully trimmed the top of the connector to allow the lighter plug to slide into its jack while letting the new wires clear the metal opening. Use a flexible plastic wire feeder to get the wires through the rubber tube that seals it all from the rain.

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S550_Newbie

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Yes, my thumbs and fingers develop skin cracks, an autoimmune dermatological disorder actually requiring topical meds for now. Hurts! Anyway, I also carefully trimmed the top of the connector to allow the lighter plug to slide into its jack while letting the new wires clear the metal opening. Use a flexible plastic wire feeder to get the wires through the rubber tube that seals it all from the rain.
You did a good job. My hands end up looking like that after doing a car stereo, especially this time of year.
 

djcwardog

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You did a good job. My hands end up looking like that after doing a car stereo, especially this time of year.
Thanks! I’ll wait to do the rears, trunk sub and external amps for my “new” leather seats (adding the heat/cool feature as well) to arrive. All of this is so much easier without an interior in the car!
 

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Thanks! I’ll wait to do the rears, trunk sub and external amps for my “new” leather seats (adding the heat/cool feature as well) to arrive. All of this is so much easier without an interior in the car!
Oh yes, and make sure if you are putting some decent power to the new speakers you sound deaden the doors. Once area that I missed or didn't think would vibrate was the drive and passenger defogger vents on the door sills. Had to take the door panel off again and treat the door cover to stop it. Was driving me insane.
 

 
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