Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

GTP

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guys i have a mustang gt 2021 with b & o but it sucks. who changed, what did you put, advise? Thank you
My opinion is that the crappy rear shelf speakers and crappy center speaker ruin the sound quality. I wrote a thread about disconnecting the center speaker, and fading the sound towards 90% front.

I found (via acousting measurement) that the OEM trunk subwoofer is set way too high at the factory. I wrote another thread about how to adjust the slider controls for bass, mid, treble to improve the overall spectral balance.

The door speakers and tweeters are good enough and need not be replaced IMO.

All these tips are free.

 

GTP

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Yes the speaker wires are solidly connected. Also the sub has a high level switch and low level switch. Because it has speaker wire leads and RCA outputs. I cycled the switch just for the sake of checking and when switched to rca the sound stops, and when switched to speaker wire it does work as long as its in accessory mode. Ok guys i thank you all for your help in this matter. I think im gonna get rid of this set up and eventually go to a classic amp and separate sub with LOC and rca inputs. I just am at wits end trying to solve this on my own. I just get this suspicion its the amp in this ordeal.
Was reading the troubleshooting suggestions. I have a couple for troubleshooting purposes only:

1. Run a short jumper from the amp power terminal to the trigger terminal. This is to test if your incoming power/ground is stable, and bypassing the trigger issue entirely.

2. Try your preferred wiring setup, but with a different amp. This is to prove whether your amp is reliable, has some internal problem, or has some sort of incompatibility or sensitivity to your preferred wiring setup.

EDIT: If the new amp also flickers, then your wiring scheme is suspect. (This includes fuse issues.)
If the new amp behaves, then your wiring is probably OK but your first amp is unhappy.

You might want to disconnect the speaker during these tests, so that there is no load on the amp.
 
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S550_Newbie

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Was reading the troubleshooting suggestions. I have a couple for troubleshooting purposes only:

1. Run a short jumper from the amp power terminal to the trigger terminal. This is to test if your incoming power/ground is stable, and bypassing the trigger issue entirely.

2. Try your preferred wiring setup, but with a different amp. This is to prove whether your amp is reliable, has some internal problem, or has some sort of incompatibility or sensitivity to your preferred wiring setup.

You might want to disconnect the speaker during these tests, so that there is no load on the amp.
Another very simple thing, is the subwoofer/subwoofers impedance matched to your amplifier at either 1,2 or 4 ohm however you have them wired? Some amps can do all 3, other amps can do 2 or 4 however if you are bridging an output a lot of amps will only do 4 ohms.
 

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If anyone cares, here is a basic diagram of how I did my system. Factory Amp removed.

S550-Stereo.jpg
 

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JayTea

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Has anyone heard of or have had their bass just stop? The bass from all active speakers is gone...

Stereo mods I have:
Sync 3 upgrade
upgraded speakers and amp

All worked fine for years until now.

I plugged the factory amp back in and I still have the same issue.

Could my head unit have gone bad? Anything else I can check / troubleshoot?
 

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I have a 2015 Mustang GT Premium. My Shaker Pro (12 speaker) system sucks. Won't hold onto a stereo signal, much less an HD signal. I have a couple of questions:

1) Can I replace the current My Ford Touch (Sync) with a SYNC3 system? I have NAV & GPS if that matters.

2) Is there a "signal" booster that would improve my FM & HD signal?

I have read that some of the original S550's didn't have the antenna connected to the radio. How do I check to ensure my antenna is connected.

Thank you
 

Hanavarian

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My opinion is that the crappy rear shelf speakers and crappy center speaker ruin the sound quality. I wrote a thread about disconnecting the center speaker, and fading the sound towards 90% front.

I found (via acousting measurement) that the OEM trunk subwoofer is set way too high at the factory. I wrote another thread about how to adjust the slider controls for bass, mid, treble to improve the overall spectral balance.

The door speakers and tweeters are good enough and need not be replaced IMO.

All these tips are free.
Worth spending $400 or so on Hertz mid and 6.5 plus time 9 speaker system, in your opinion?
 

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Do you know the 9 spkr amp watt rating by chance....can't find it anywhere?
I don't, I looked and looked as well and nothing. When you pull the factory speakers out they have an RMS rating on them, which is terrible, so it can't be much wattage. I think the garbage tweeters are 12 watts, the doors are 25 at most maybe. The midler and tweeter are connect on the same channel so I would guess the factory amp is between 15 - 25 watts per channel. For comparison, the Morel Tempo Ultra MKII 692's I put into my truck are 2 way components and each set takes 150 watts. I put some Sony ES 6.5 coaxial in the rear and those are rated for 90watts each.
 

GTP

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Worth spending $400 or so on Hertz mid and 6.5 plus time 9 speaker system, in your opinion?
As a loudspeaker designer it is hard for me to give basic advice when speakers are so much more complicated than most people realize.

For example, most mid-range cones have a breakup frequency that is heard as harshness in the low treble band. This can be corrected with a custom precise parametric EQ filter in the crossover program. Often this is absent because it was overlooked (or the design was rushed).

It this EQ filter exists, then changing out the mid speaker will not match it and so you are back to a source of harshness.

If the filter is missing then it is also missing for the new mid, so what have you gained?

I think the door speakers are good enough. The rear deck and center speakers are bad and ruin the sound. Therefore, disable your center speaker, and fade all the sound to the front. Then listen to see if the sound quality is acceptable to you. It is for me and I have a very expensive high end system in which I designed and built the speakers in my acoustic lab from scratch with over thirty years experience.
 

S550_Newbie

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As a loudspeaker designer it is hard for me to give basic advice when speakers are so much more complicated than most people realize.

For example, most mid-range cones have a breakup frequency that is heard as harshness in the low treble band. This can be corrected with a custom precise parametric EQ filter in the crossover program. Often this is absent because it was overlooked (or the design was rushed).

It this EQ filter exists, then changing out the mid speaker will not match it and so you are back to a source of harshness.

If the filter is missing then it is also missing for the new mid, so what have you gained?

I think the door speakers are good enough. The rear deck and center speakers are bad and ruin the sound. Therefore, disable your center speaker, and fade all the sound to the front. Then listen to see if the sound quality is acceptable to you. It is for me and I have a very expensive high end system in which I designed and built the speakers in my acoustic lab from scratch with over thirty years experience.
I find this highly ironic but music and sound is subjective.
 

Hanavarian

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As a loudspeaker designer it is hard for me to give basic advice when speakers are so much more complicated than most people realize.

For example, most mid-range cones have a breakup frequency that is heard as harshness in the low treble band. This can be corrected with a custom precise parametric EQ filter in the crossover program. Often this is absent because it was overlooked (or the design was rushed).

It this EQ filter exists, then changing out the mid speaker will not match it and so you are back to a source of harshness.

If the filter is missing then it is also missing for the new mid, so what have you gained?

I think the door speakers are good enough. The rear deck and center speakers are bad and ruin the sound. Therefore, disable your center speaker, and fade all the sound to the front. Then listen to see if the sound quality is acceptable to you. It is for me and I have a very expensive high end system in which I designed and built the speakers in my acoustic lab from scratch with over thirty years experience.
I understand. A great tip!

Perhaps first $ should go to JBL DSP 4086 that goes in same location as Ford Amp for a good budget starting point.

Since it's a vert I'm not expecting much with top down.

I feel like I need to upgrade something I the Mustang haha
 

 
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