Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

19gtMD

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You can always run it up to the fuse box in the passenger footwell. I think it is fuse 21 that most use. Use a multimeter and find a fuse that does NOT have constant power.
Its fuse 23.. Thanks for the input. Well after i got home i used the multimeter at the battery and the sub. The power is there. The battery was in fact new. So im at a loss. I have a good power source read 12v and both ends with the car off. Read 15v at both ends with the battery on, and light flickering at the sub. So there was no loss in power. Read my speaker signal and was reading 7v with the car on and 6v with car off. Was getting 0 at the remote wire with the car off, and was getting 15v with the car on and flickering at the sub. At this point im almost chalking it up to my sub and amp must be shit...

 

19gtMD

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sorry for the crappy vid quality i was using my phone i dont have a go pro or tripod.
 

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Your speaker input wires are solidly connected yeah? Some amps will detect a high level input and automatically turn on and off, that overrides the remote wire.
 

StangTime

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15V when the engine is running seems a bit high. But from what I've read about the smart charging system, it can does get that high under certain conditions.
BUT... was your battery was replaced recently?
There is a BMS reset procedure that can be performed after the battery is changed. Maybe the shop didn't do that? Maybe it doesn't matter but it can do weird things with the charging system.
It can be done easily. Here are the steps and it's worth a shot before you pull all your hair out.

Do this under 10 seconds:
  1. Switch ignition on (engine off)
  2. Pull and release high beam 5 times.
  3. Press and release brake pedal 3 times.
  4. If successful the battery light will flash 3 times within the next 15 seconds.
  5. BMS reset completed.
Test your sub again.
 
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19gtMD

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Your speaker input wires are solidly connected yeah? Some amps will detect a high level input and automatically turn on and off, that overrides the remote wire.
Yes the speaker wires are solidly connected. Also the sub has a high level switch and low level switch. Because it has speaker wire leads and RCA outputs. I cycled the switch just for the sake of checking and when switched to rca the sound stops, and when switched to speaker wire it does work as long as its in accessory mode. Ok guys i thank you all for your help in this matter. I think im gonna get rid of this set up and eventually go to a classic amp and separate sub with LOC and rca inputs. I just am at wits end trying to solve this on my own. I just get this suspicion its the amp in this ordeal.
 

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Yes the speaker wires are solidly connected. Also the sub has a high level switch and low level switch. Because it has speaker wire leads and RCA outputs. I cycled the switch just for the sake of checking and when switched to rca the sound stops, and when switched to speaker wire it does work as long as its in accessory mode. Ok guys i thank you all for your help in this matter. I think im gonna get rid of this set up and eventually go to a classic amp and separate sub with LOC and rca inputs. I just am at wits end trying to solve this on my own. I just get this suspicion its the amp in this ordeal.
Sorry we couldn't figure it out. We sure did try. Good luck and come back or create a new post about your new equipment. Just buy an amp that has high level inputs with signal sensing for turn-on. Simplifies everything.
 

MustangRVI

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guys i have a mustang gt 2021 with b & o but it sucks. who changed, what did you put, advise? Thank you
 

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guys i have a mustang gt 2021 with b & o but it sucks. who changed, what did you put, advise? Thank you
I used a DSR1 to replace the amplifier and the AFO3 harness, the DSR1 is a pass through only into an AudioControl D.6.1200 which is where all the tuning is done and outputs to the speakers using the passive crossovers. Separate amp for the 12" sub at 600 watts. Ran new speaker wires to the A-pillars for dedicated tweeters since Ford wires them in with the door 3.5", had to modify the A-pillars, not a big deal as I have no plans to return it to factory. Using Focal 3 Way performance up front and coaxial in the rear deck. Sounds phenomenal. I did not hook up the center channel speaker, it ruins the balance and there is no need for it. All chimes, warnings and factory head unit fading L/R/F/R, steering wheel controls all work just like before.
 

djcwardog

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Its fuse 23.. Thanks for the input. Well after i got home i used the multimeter at the battery and the sub. The power is there. The battery was in fact new. So im at a loss. I have a good power source read 12v and both ends with the car off. Read 15v at both ends with the battery on, and light flickering at the sub. So there was no loss in power. Read my speaker signal and was reading 7v with the car on and 6v with car off. Was getting 0 at the remote wire with the car off, and was getting 15v with the car on and flickering at the sub. At this point im almost chalking it up to my sub and amp must be shit...
I’ve just come back to the fold with a “new” 2016 Mustang GT Base. When I was here before I had a (truly) new 2017 Mustang GT Deluxe (400a - Shaker without a factory sub). Anyway, I tried to add the factory sub to that car along with finding a factory Shaker amp (mounts above the front left kick panel) from a 401a car to obtain the internal circuitry for the sub that is left out of the same-looking amp for a non-sub car. No matter what I did - and I know how to use Forscan - I never could get the “new” amp to send a turn on signal to the sub/amp in the trunk. I finally spliced in and wired an LCI2 to do the job driving the factory sub amp/sub. It worked but I never did figure out just why my “new” amp wasn’t sending the signal. The part number was correct for the amp needed. Anyway, if you’re committed to using the factory sub box, consider the LCI2.

As for me - fast forwarding 4 1/2 years, I will get my audio kicks without going Shaker. I am using the now-available Scosche kit to install an Alpine ILX407, a set of Morel 3-ways in the doors/A-pillar, leave the stock rear decks alone. After I listen to that for awhile I will go on to mount my zenclosure front firing single 10” box and and amps to drive it all.
 
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S550_Newbie

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I’ve just come back to the fold with a “new” 2016 Mustang GT Base. When I was here before I had a (truly) new 2017 Mustang GT Deluxe (400a - Shaker without a factory sub). Anyway, I tried to add the factory sub to that car along with finding a factory Shaker amp (mounts above the front left kick panel) from a 401a car to obtain the internal circuitry for the sub that is left out of the same-looking amp for a non-sub car. No matter what I did - and I know how to use Forscan - I never could get the “new” amp to send a turn on signal to the sub/amp in the trunk. I finally spliced in and wired an LCI2 to do the job driving the factory sub amp/sub. It worked but I never did figure out just why my “new” amp wasn’t sending the signal. The part number was correct for the amp needed. Anyway, if you’re committed to using the factory sub box, consider the LCI2.

As for me - fast forwarding 4 1/2 years, I will get my audio kicks without going Shaker. I am using the now-available Scosche kit to install an Alpine ILX407, a set of Morel 3-ways in the doors/A-pillar, leave the stock rear decks alone. After I listen to that for awhile I will go on to mount my zenclosure front firing single 10” box and and amps to drive it all.
Nice, I love Morel. I have the 2 way Tempo Ultra 692 MKII's in my Silverado with Sony ES's in the rear and a Massive Audio HIPPOXL84 under the rear seat.
 

idscomm

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Hello All,

New to the forum (great knowledge and experience here for sure) ... I read at least half of this thread and I am still not sure about what is the right path to follow as opinions are kind of "shared"

I have a 2015 Mustang GT with Premium sound NO Subwoofer. I am planning in adding a Subwoofer and mono amplifier. For now I will be keeping everything else (factory amp and speakers). I selected items online at Crutchfield but I want to make sure I do things right. To be honest the processed signal vs unprocessed is bugging me.

What is the best route?

1- Tap behind the head unit and before the amplifier to get unprocessed signal which I would bring to mono amp, if so any harness to simplify things?

2- Tap to the rear speaker using the L2Ci Pro to feed my amplifier.

Just looking for advice here.

Thanks guys!
 

m3incorp

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The easiest would be to tap into the rear speaker. I don't know how the 15's are but it isn't so easy on the B&O to just tap into the head unit....well almost impossible....most use a harness from the OE Amp/Processor but not just to run a subwoofer, especially since yours didn't have one to begin with.
 

 
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