Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

Jackismydog

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Dear Cathul, After reading attentivly those 80 pages and also many other posts... you putted me out of my chair this morning!!!

I planned to add a sub to my stock system. ( Alpine 600watt amp+ Alpine 750W sub+ custom enclosure from Conceptenclosure for convertible ) . To do that I thought that buying LC2Ipro as plug and play ( https://www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/124328722046?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 ) would be the solution.

According to your statement that would be a wrong move. So if i do not want to modify the existing OEM system and add a sub what would you please suggest? Thanks for your assistance!
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Cathul

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What kind of stock system? You didn't specify that?

6-speaker or 9-speaker?

If 6 speaker, grab signal for front speakers right after the ACM as every Alpine amplifier already has a LOC integrated and you want to keep your stock speakers without adding an additional 4 channel amplifier.

For this you need a T-harness like CARAV 12-240 or any other brand with the appropriate connectors (use the CARAV 12-240 pictures as reference), an additional relay (f.e. PAC-Audio TR4 or better TR-7) to transform the 6V amp-turn on to a 12V remote turn-on and solder in RCA extensions into the front speaker lines. Route RCA cable and remote turn on from the relay from front to back to your amp and set the amp to high-level in and set the crossover for the sub on the amplifier.

If 9-speaker system, the ACM is already putting out variable line output.
In this case you need a T-harness like above, an an additional relay (f.e. PAC-Audio TR-4 or better TR7) to transform the 6V amp turn-on to 12V and route the RCA cable and the remote turn on back to your amplifier. Turn the amp to low-level input and set crossover for the sub on the amplifier.

12-speaker would be possible eitherway except that you need an amplifier that has more input level on the high-input side than the Alpine, which is limited to 10V (which is fine if you grab the signal for front speakers as outlined above). You could then use the subwoofer amplified signal or better do the way as described for the 9-speaker system.

It's better to do it like the 9-speaker system as you get the clean, unaltered signal and are free to set your crossovers the way you like this way and are not limited to the lowpassed signal that Ford gives you.

Using a T-harness in an appropriate way gives you the most flexibility, especially if you grab the signal right behind the ACM. If you want to add something like a DSP and run your 6-speakers (stock or aftermarket speakers) with aftermarket amplification later on you don't have to pull the ACM ever again and have all the flexibility you can possibly want and it's simple plug'n'play without the need to cut or alter any of the stock wiring.

With a 6-speaker base system all you need to do to add a DSP is to reprogram your ACM to variable line output, with a 9- or 12-speaker system you don't need to do anything to your ACM.
In both cases you pull the RCAs and remote turn on from your sub amp and feed the DSP with those cables with a really good variable line output signal that is not clipping even at full tilt on the ACM.

Hope this answers your questions and gives you the reasoning why i will always say "ditch the line output converters, they are almost never needed these days if you have a better way to get a signal".
 

Jackismydog

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Cathul

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No, you don't need it.
Just look at the wiring diagram if available.
Your ACM is giving you front/rear left/right variable line output and audio enable in one connector C240A(at least if it's not an EU spec Mustang, in this case the audio enable is in the other connector, C240B).
So you just need to solder RCA breakouts to the line output for the front channels and a relay fed by the constant 12volt, the amp-turn on with 6 volt and ground and route RCA and remote turn on back to your amplifier, all in the T-harness of course, and you're good to go.
Or you could get the remote turn on from the harness in the trunk that is activating the backup camera, which is always active btw. as soon as the ignition is on. This would be 12Volt even so no need for a relay.
 

Bahndvr

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@Cathul where are you located so I can bring my Stang by?
 

Bahndvr

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Figures. You're almost 5 hours away. Hoping you were close(r)
 

Evolvd

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Has anyone ran speaker wires into the doors? I’ve watched CAF’s video on how to drill the door wire harness plugs and run speakers through there. Anyone used this method? If so, how difficult is it to remove and reinstall the plug?
I’m going to replace all my door speakers and run them active from a JL VXi amp with DSP so I’ll have 4 wires going into the door and two up to the tweeter.
 

StangTime

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Has anyone ran speaker wires into the doors? I’ve watched CAF’s video on how to drill the door wire harness plugs and run speakers through there. Anyone used this method? If so, how difficult is it to remove and reinstall the plug?
I’m going to replace all my door speakers and run them active from a JL VXi amp with DSP so I’ll have 4 wires going into the door and two up to the tweeter.
There is no reason to run new wires through the door. Just run new wires for the tweeters and use the wires in the door for the midrange and mid-bass.
 

NGOT8R

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I’ve had my factory Molex connectors apart in the doors to do this and quickly discovered that it was impossible to do. There is simply no room to drill and pass speaker wires through.
 

5.0_SD

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I ran fairly heavy gauge into my doors and I didn't mess up the big molex (can't remember what gauge). I'll try and get better pics. Last pic will give you an idea of the size of wire going into the doors coming from the amp on the left. Driver's side door shown.
PObDFkb.jpg

8HwbPM7.jpg

UExkPiB.jpg
 

Evolvd

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I ran fairly heavy gauge into my doors and I didn't mess up the big molex (can't remember what gauge). I'll try and get better pics. Last pic will give you an idea of the size of wire going into the doors coming from the amp on the left. Driver's side door shown.
PObDFkb.jpg

8HwbPM7.jpg

UExkPiB.jpg
Any issues with the door pinching the bundles?
 

5.0_SD

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Not that I've noticed and its been a couple years like that.
 

Mhanna5

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Hoping for some help. I am looking for some cleaner sound and some bass (not overkill). I have the 9 speaker 8 inch screen system without a sub and wanted to look at something easy to install since this is not my area of expertise. I was looking on one of the sites suggested here, and was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. Based on the above, what kit would work best for me?
https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...eer-plug-play-amp?_pos=2&_sid=fd362498d&_ss=r

I'd like to get my front speakers more power for crisp clean sound (i have already replaces all the front speakers and removed the center) and to get a small sub for some bass. I also have a convertible so there aren't a lot of options for a sub either. I used forscan to disable the eq, so I think I've done everything I can short of adding equipment. Again, I was hoping to get some kind of plug and play setup since I am not at all familiar with this stuff. TIA !
 
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