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Step by Step Guide to Enabling Blind Spot Information System (BLIS) and Cross Traffic Alert (CTA)

RSPEK 178

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mikesly

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RSPEK 178

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Guys,

this week I finally got the blind spot and cross travel alert fitted, programmed and working!

I have a 2020 mustang RSPEC and live in Australia. To all those wondering if the EU / AU models can be fitted with this the answer is yes!
Thanks to https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/members/rubens_5-0.42738/ for helping me out with the mirrors!

I am not going to list all the parts as https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/members/toasterhunter.58920/ did a really good job and outside of making sure you have the correct mirror for your region there is no material difference.

I was lucky with my sensors getting them from a manual GT350R with low miles in Vancouver. All other bits were FORD OEM genuine parts out of states with 6 - 8 week delivery through a mate in US as they would only do business with residents…?

now this job took far longer than anticipated and I had a few snags along the way that required a bit of support ( outside of my limited garage facility).

If ordering the external mirror plugs make sure you order enough of the plugs and sockets as they are tiny and might require several attempts ( the right crimper makes all the difference).

I installed the OEM mirror and tested continuity as I went ( through door, then through door connector and then prior to connecting to the sensors.

For life or money I could not get the pin and socket combination in the door plug to fit. I went to auto spark and he couldn’t get it to work either so we ran wires through the plug and socket with aid of small drill.


I got my local dealer to remove and replace my bumper and fit the sensors and my preloomed cables. I took the opportunity to also run the side marker supply cables at the same time.
On hooking everything up I could see the RH sensor but not the left. A bit of fault finding and I had the Can wire polarity incorrect on the left. Sorted programmed and out for test drive…

the system worked as intended but I had a whole heap of DTC’s (photos attached) that were intermittently popping up and now my air conditioner, stereo and seat cooling didn’t work.
I decided to recheck my terminations to the canbus ( tapped into the BCM pins 23 & 11). I ended up reterminating everything again and codes cleared and now fully functional.
Would I do again, absolutely. This is a safety feature that should be on all mustangs or two door cars (IMO).

I am a bit of a perfectionist so everything is loomed in factory style tape , all terminations except the canbus are in factory locations and to the uninitiated it’s like a factory install. thanks to the early pioneers who paved this mod over 4 years ago you are legends.
cheers
Mark

E217F04B-F481-43AC-A8EA-CD6940F01B8C.jpeg


1C8F8088-3FD1-497B-A883-8FB904B9BD0D.jpeg
 

KKJMG

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Guys,

this week I finally got the blind spot and cross travel alert fitted, programmed and working!

I have a 2020 mustang RSPEC and live in Australia. To all those wondering if the EU / AU models can be fitted with this the answer is yes!
Thanks to https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/members/rubens_5-0.42738/ for helping me out with the mirrors!

I am not going to list all the parts as https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/members/toasterhunter.58920/ did a really good job and outside of making sure you have the correct mirror for your region there is no material difference.

I was lucky with my sensors getting them from a manual GT350R with low miles in Vancouver. All other bits were FORD OEM genuine parts out of states with 6 - 8 week delivery through a mate in US as they would only do business with residents…?

now this job took far longer than anticipated and I had a few snags along the way that required a bit of support ( outside of my limited garage facility).

If ordering the external mirror plugs make sure you order enough of the plugs and sockets as they are tiny and might require several attempts ( the right crimper makes all the difference).

I installed the OEM mirror and tested continuity as I went ( through door, then through door connector and then prior to connecting to the sensors.

For life or money I could not get the pin and socket combination in the door plug to fit. I went to auto spark and he couldn’t get it to work either so we ran wires through the plug and socket with aid of small drill.


I got my local dealer to remove and replace my bumper and fit the sensors and my preloomed cables. I took the opportunity to also run the side marker supply cables at the same time.
On hooking everything up I could see the RH sensor but not the left. A bit of fault finding and I had the Can wire polarity incorrect on the left. Sorted programmed and out for test drive…

the system worked as intended but I had a whole heap of DTC’s (photos attached) that were intermittently popping up and now my air conditioner, stereo and seat cooling didn’t work.
I decided to recheck my terminations to the canbus ( tapped into the BCM pins 23 & 11). I ended up reterminating everything again and codes cleared and now fully functional.
Would I do again, absolutely. This is a safety feature that should be on all mustangs or two door cars (IMO).

I am a bit of a perfectionist so everything is loomed in factory style tape , all terminations except the canbus are in factory locations and to the uninitiated it’s like a factory install. thanks to the early pioneers who paved this mod over 4 years ago you are legends.
cheers
Mark

E217F04B-F481-43AC-A8EA-CD6940F01B8C.jpeg


1C8F8088-3FD1-497B-A883-8FB904B9BD0D.jpeg
Hey Smart Guys/Gals,
I did the BLIS/CTA mod last year on my 2017 base and its working great thanks to this thread! Now, Im thinking about trying to mod my 2005 Escape. Can I just wire up some OEM sensors/pigtails with power, ground, and signal to a LED somewhere and still have it work? Its my understanding that all the the "thinking" for this system done in the sensors and the CAN bus just integrates it to the car for DTCs/display/menu/chimes ect.. Or will I get sunk due to programming/As Built, VIN etc.? What am I missing here?
 

KKJMG

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BTW, Ford didn't put out BLIS/CTA until MY 2010 and not until 2013 for most years including the Escape.
 

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What's the resistance for the lights? Per @breeves002, the sweet spot for them seems to be > 400 ohms. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZIRPM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_29Y4CbMVQ1TDY is the one that I used. Others had good luck with them but some didn't, perhaps due to the change in the resistance due to manufacturing variances... Let me know if you have issues finding the lights that'll work and I'll send you some from my stash.
What's the likelihood Ford has a different diagnostic routine and/or BLIS indicator LED resistance/max current spec between the Mustang and Fusion?

SoMeBodY (not naming names) backed out of the garage and broke the driver side mirror off my 2012 Fusion SEL with BLIS and CTA. Bought an aftermarket OME-replacement that has BLIS. Installed it and now as soon as I shift from park, I get both BLIS and CTA faults on the dash. Plug in my salvaged OEM mirror's complete wire harness, no faults, plug the aftermarket mirror in, faults return; so the issue is definitely in this aftermarket OEM-replacement mirror assembly. Also have DTC B11D6:15 set active for circuit short to battery or open. If I measure across pins 7 & 8 of my broken OEM mirror's harness connector I get 1.2kohm. Across 7 & 8 of the aftermarket, it measures open. So... wired in some resistors ahead of the LED for 1.2Kohm in the aftermarket and.... no dice, still have the code and faults.

Then I found this thread. Is the theory that there needs to be no more than 50mA draw from the LED and therefore you need to right-size a resistor in series with whatever the LED measures and that most are finding about 400ohms works (with those LEDs)?

Other odd thing going on is that the LED in this aftermarket mirror is dimly lit all the time, and it shouldn't be. So I'm also thinking maybe.... if that LED is dimly lit all the time.... may I really do have a short to battery somewhere in the aftermarket mirror as the DTC would indicate. Why else would the LED be dimly lit all the time when the SODL has faults and shouldn't be enabling the output to the LED?

OEM-resistance.JPG


TRQ-open.JPG
 

Nightmonkey

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@RSPEK 178
Do you have part numbers for the BLIS mirrors with the EU-spec size?
 

RSPEK 178

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@RSPEK 178
Do you have part numbers for the BLIS mirrors with the EU-spec size?
Hello,

I would check but I think they areFR3Z-17K707-Q & FR3Z-17K707-R. I’ll check and come back. Cheers
Mark
 

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Thank you Mark!
are these mirrors with or without folding?
If not, maybe as an alternative, I could just retrofit the glasses?

Edit:
Just checked, this ar just the glasses.
So that idea could be right?
 

RSPEK 178

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RSPEK 178

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Hello,

I would check but I think they areFR3Z-17K707-Q & FR3Z-17K707-R.
Hello again. I can confirm they are the correct part numbers for EU and AU mustangs.
kind Regards
Mark
 

RSPEK 178

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Thank you Mark!
are these mirrors with or without folding?
If not, maybe as an alternative, I could just retrofit the glasses?

Edit:
Just checked, this ar just the glasses.
So that idea could be right?
They are just the mirrors which fit the mirror housing. In my instance they are foldable. Cheers
Mark
 
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Decided to try this on my 2018 GT. I decided to go with the LED in the A-pillar for now. After installing everything and making the changes with FORscan I am getting a couple of codes in the IPC module. Code #U0533 Invalid data received from Side Obstacle Detection Control Module 'A'. And code # U0534 - Invalid Data Received from Side Obstacle Detection Control Module 'B'. Could this be an indication the used modules I purchased are bad or is this a possible wiring issue? Any help is appreciated.
 

Nightmonkey

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Does anyone here have any idea who the manufacturer of the connector for the radar sensors is?
The imprinted logo is a small 30° angle.
1679993705501.png


Known identifiers so far:
FU2Z-14S411-ADB
WPT-1434
14S411W

I have the connectors velvet sensors here, but would like to crimp new contacts instead of soldering to the existing wires.

Got one out, could that be the same TE 1456968 like i need for the door connector?
 

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Does anyone know if I can add
BLIS® with Cross-Traffic Alert to my car
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