Step by Step Guide to Enabling Blind Spot Information System (BLIS) and Cross Traffic Alert (CTA)

[Bull Run]

This might seem a stupid question but will any Ford Blis modules work on this as long as they're the 14C689 type? I've seen some modules going cheap on ebay and I'd like to do this to my mustang in the future

My modules came from Ford Edge so I think same ones from different models should work. It seems like Edge uses DCM to trigger the alert lights as the connectors for the edge was missing the ALERT wire and SOD threw DTS code for missing DCM until I updated as-built config using FORScan to match a Mustang that came with BLIS from the factory. I have the values in the guide but you can also look them from http://media.4rev4.com/s550-as-built-library/.

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[w1ldthing]

Can anybody offer some advice to help with my problem.

Have followed the guide and thought I'd got everything setup up correctly.
With ignition on engine off, leds do a quick test flash and no dtcs occur. If I turn the engine on, the leds flicker 5 or 6 times and throw some short circuit dtc.

Any ideas?

 

[Chappers]

Can anybody offer some advice to help with my problem.

Have followed the guide and thought I'd got everything setup up correctly.
With ignition on engine off, leds do a quick test flash and no dtcs occur. If I turn the engine on, the leds flicker 5 or 6 times and throw some short circuit dtc.

Any ideas?

are you sure you've connected all the wires to the correct pins?

 

[Falk03]

Can anybody offer some advice to help with my problem.

Have followed the guide and thought I'd got everything setup up correctly.
With ignition on engine off, leds do a quick test flash and no dtcs occur. If I turn the engine on, the leds flicker 5 or 6 times and throw some short circuit dtc.

Any ideas?

With engine on you have a higher voltage (up to 14.4 instead of 12V) and I guess you need to adjust the resister accordingly. Otherwise you end up with a current which is too high which would trigger the DTCs.

 

[w1ldthing]

With engine on you have a higher voltage (up to 14.4 instead of 12V) and I guess you need to adjust the resister accordingly. Otherwise you end up with a current which is too high which would trigger the DTCs.

Good thought. Will dig out the multimeter and see what is flowing to the leds and tweak the resistor accordingly.

 

[Bull Run]

Good thought. Will dig out the multimeter and see what is flowing to the leds and tweak the resistor accordingly.

I used Haobase 50pcs Mixed Colour 5mm LEDs Pre Wired Light 12V 20cm Bulb and these worked out of the box to use as BLIS and AEM WMI lights. I bought these because they have built-in resistors and reviews had examples of folks using them in cars without needing modification. I have plenty of them left over and you can have a pair for the cost of shipping, but they are only $7.95 on Amazon for 50 count with free shipping for Prime members, so that'll be a cheaper route if the tweak doesn't work.

 

[Desolate04]

Can anybody offer some advice to help with my problem.

Have followed the guide and thought I'd got everything setup up correctly.
With ignition on engine off, leds do a quick test flash and no dtcs occur. If I turn the engine on, the leds flicker 5 or 6 times and throw some short circuit dtc.

Any ideas?

I had the EXACT same issue. It turned out to be because of the LED lights I chose. I was running through the pinpoint test and after talking with Bull Run he recommended a different set of lights.

It sounds too easy to be true but it was giving the DTC B11D6:11 Driver Display Alert LED: Circuit Short to Ground. And when I would disconnect the light it'd give DTC B11D6:15 Driver Display Alert LED Circuit Open (something like that.).

I was using these "Super Brite" LEDs purchased from Fry's electronics and switching over to different LEDs fixed the issue.

The LEDs used to flash like 5-6 times every time I'd turn the ignition on, and I'd get an error on the instrument panel about "cross traffic alert system fault" or some such message that I'd have to hit the OK button on the steering wheel to fix.

Now the lights light up solid for 5 seconds when starting my car (proper function). And no more error codes.

I sent a PM to Bull Run to see if he can make sense of the difference I found between the two LEDs when testing them with a multimeter (I've never even used wire strippers before this project, so he has been extremely helpful in explaining everything).

 

[Chappers]

I had the EXACT same issue. It turned out to be because of the LED lights I chose. I was running through the pinpoint test and after talking with Bull Run he recommended a different set of lights.

It sounds too easy to be true but it was giving the DTC B11D6:11 Driver Display Alert LED: Circuit Short to Ground. And when I would disconnect the light it'd give DTC B11D6:15 Driver Display Alert LED Circuit Open (something like that.).

I was using these "Super Brite" LEDs purchased from Fry's electronics and switching over to different LEDs fixed the issue.

The LEDs used to flash like 5-6 times every time I'd turn the ignition on, and I'd get an error on the instrument panel about "cross traffic alert system fault" or some such message that I'd have to hit the OK button on the steering wheel to fix.

Now the lights light up solid for 5 seconds when starting my car (proper function). And no more error codes.

I sent a PM to Bull Run to see if he can make sense of the difference I found between the two LEDs when testing them with a multimeter (I've never even used wire strippers before this project, so he has been extremely helpful in explaining everything).

Its probably because the ultra bright led's have a higher current draw than those of lower output and/or don't have a current limiting resistor for a 12v application

 

[Bull Run]

The lights that I used (ones that Desolate04 switched to) came with resistors already soldered on. I tried to get the resistance value between the + and - wires but couldn't get a reading. It lights up with a 9V battery so I know the light itself is good. I tried the end of the + wire and the other side of the resistor and got a value of 470 ohms. If you are using another brand of LED lights or OEM mirrors with BLIS light, please post the resistance value here and I'll update the guide accordingly.

 

[w1ldthing]

OK, confirmed as working fully now.
Just in case I replaced both leds and resistors with now no dtc wobbles.

 

[Bull Run]

OK, confirmed as working fully now.
Just in case I replaced both leds and resistors with now no dtc wobbles.

Good to hear, what kind of resistors did you use?

 

[Falk03]

The resistors depend on the LEDs you use. In the end the current should not be beyond a certain limit (50mA?) for 14.4 volts (engine running) and the remaining voltage for the LED not below a certain value for 9 volts (low battery with engine off).
I guess the maximum current is something around 50mA (could also be 30mA only). With this current and the type of the LED you could calculate the right resistor for the LED.

@w1ldthing Did you check the current with the engine running?

On the weekend I could measure the OEM LEDs how much current they draw for 9, 12 and 14.4 volts just to get an idea of the optimal current.

 

[w1ldthing]

OK, confirmed as working fully now.
Just in case I replaced both leds and resistors with now no dtc wobbles.

Hmmm, need to do a double check on the dtcs. Everything is starting up good, even got my first CTA with a vehicle approaching from the right. But as soon as I drove off in 1st gear I got blis and cta errors. Hopefully just a reset of existing dtcs that I didn't clear yet will fix.

 

[w1ldthing]

The resistors depend on the LEDs you use. In the end the current should not be beyond a certain limit (50mA?) for 14.4 volts (engine running) and the remaining voltage for the LED not below a certain value for 9 volts (low battery with engine off).
I guess the maximum current is something around 50mA (could also be 30mA only). With this current and the type of the LED you could calculate the right resistor for the LED.

@w1ldthing Did you check the current with the engine running?

On the weekend I could measure the OEM LEDs how much current they draw for 9, 12 and 14.4 volts just to get an idea of the optimal current.

Pretty sure the draw was 50mA with engine running.

 

[w1ldthing]

Hmmm, need to do a double check on the dtcs. Everything is starting up good, even got my first CTA with a vehicle approaching from the right. But as soon as I drove off in 1st gear I got blis and cta errors. Hopefully just a reset of existing dtcs that I didn't clear yet will fix.

My issue is now a programming issue. I now getting a TCM issue I'm assuming because I've programmed for an automatic when driving a manual.

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