Steeda Subframe braces or Koni rear Shocks??

[fstang24]

Well fixing to do my next mod and need some opinions. Currently own a 2015 GT (non pp). So far it is lowered on eibach sportlines, 25mm spacers all the way around steeda extreme g-track k brace. Deciding on which mod to do next, i am thinking either rear koni adjustable shocks or the steeda rear subframe braces. Which would you purchase next? My main focus for my car is for it to be driving at a track with alot twist and turns, non intended for drag racing.

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[Todd15Fastback]

I would do the subframe braces if you only plan on doing the rear Konis. I would do all 4 shocks/struts and not mix and match them with the factory nonPP shocks/struts.

What is making you lean towards the subframe braces, first? Have you thought about vertical links? Rear differential bushings? I ask as you could address wheel hop issues first. Just my .02.

 

[Doctor Fishtail]

I would do the subframe braces if you only plan on doing the rear Konis. I would do all 4 shocks/struts and not mix and match them with the factory nonPP shocks/struts.

What is making you lean towards the subframe braces, first? Have you thought about vertical links? Rear differential bushings? I ask as you could address wheel hop issues first. Just my .02.

I agree with Todd. Stabilize IRS then proceed with other mods.

 

[fstang24]

Thanks for the input guys

 

[tj@steeda]

Thanks for the input guys

PM Sent!

TJ

 

[GoBlues38]

My rear sub frame braces cured 90% of my wheel hop.

 

[speedfrk]

I'm thinking of these as well since I'm trying to get the last bit of driveline vibration out of the car after 2 new DS, pinion flanges, on the car balancing, etc. A couple of other guys with the same issue have reported that they make a significant difference and my car is smooth sometimes and still has some vibration at other times (on the same section of road). I'm wondering if the IRS moving slightly is partly to blame. I'd like to hear anyone's experience with these- especially @steeda since they help with wheel hop, etc.

 

[EricSMG]

The OP wants a 'sports' car which means he should positively locate the IRS cradle, first. The ancillary devices (diff bushes, links, etc.) will do little for true handling if the cradle isn't secure.

OP - This is precisely my plan of attack. Address cradle first (to keep front/rear of car in-phase), then links (for inside rear wheel hop out of slow turns), then shocks (for chassis control).

 

[dgc333]

My rear sub frame braces cured 90% of my wheel hop.

I found that too when I installed the Steeda rear subframe braces. They also improved the composure of the rear end over broken pavement.

 

[Inigo]

I did the same. I installed a lockout kit, rear subframe braces (&front) then moved to links and bushings.

I just now picked up Konis to finish off the suspension

Last mod I can do is driveshaft and return fuel system (otherwise power is good enough)

 

[dev1360]

I'd do the subframe braces. Keeps the rear from floating around on those bushings.

FWIW, I like the design of the BMR cradle lockout much more. Accomishes the same goal in a much smaller package.

 

[tj@steeda]

The IRS bushings do help with wheel hop & may help with vibrations as they keep the diff movement under control.

Speedfrk, let me know & I can help get you to your goals with our knowledgeable sales team ... happy to help!

You can reach me at [email protected].

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[speedfrk]

The IRS bushings do help with wheel hop & may help with vibrations as they keep the diff movement under control.

Speedfrk, let me know & I can help get you to your goals with our knowledgeable sales team ... happy to help!

You can reach me at [email protected].

Best Regards,

TJ

Tim, Mike called me and we discussed the vibration issue at length. I'm going to try the subframe braces out as a test to see if it has any effect on the DL vibration. Great service- ordered them yesterday afternoon and they arrived today. Faster than Amazon Prime!

 

[tj@steeda]

Tim, Mike called me and we discussed the vibration issue at length. I'm going to try the subframe braces out as a test to see if it has any effect on the DL vibration. Great service- ordered them yesterday afternoon and they arrived today. Faster than Amazon Prime!

Glad to hear it - look forward to your feedback & we appreciate your business!

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[speedfrk]

So, I installed the subframe braces this weekend and have nothing but good stuff to say about them- well except for one thing which I'll mention last.
First, the handling improvement is evident immediately. The car feels more "connected" even in moderate speed corners and sweepers.

Second, there is no discernible increase in harshness over bumps, rough road surfaces, etc. It just feels tighter. My car is a base ecoboost with 18's and GY Eagle F1's.

Third- and the reason I really tried them is for reduction in the 50-70mph DL vibration that plagues these cars. They do make a noticeable difference. How noticeable probably depends on how bad you car is to start with. My car was about 90% fixed after new DS, on car balancing, etc. These have basically reduced it to where I have to ask myself if it might be road vibration or engine vibration. It's as good as it's going to get.

Finally, the car had a power on/power off difference in the DL vibration- like going up a hill on the interstate and then cresting the top and going down where there is a significant decrease in power required. My car always had an increase in the DL vibration and droning noise when it was going downhill- power off. That is completely gone now- much to my amazement. So, movement in the IRS subframe has a real impact on the DL vibration.

Judging from the way they install by triangulating the subframe to the rockers using factory predrilled mounting points, it really looks like Ford intended to use something like this in production. Even the gas tank is properly notched for these to fit and there is no reason to do that if they weren't going to use something like this.

Mine installed easily in 1/2 hour with no problems lining up bolt holes like some guys have struggled with. I did mine by backing the car on to ramps so I could crawl under the back. I think it "may" help to keep the car's weight on the suspension for alignment purposes, thus the ramps instead of jack stands.

Now, for the one negative that would only affect you if you have absurdly high rain gutters like my neighborhood- the brace where it attaches to the rocker by the jacking point sticks down 1/2in further than the pinch welded seam and it drags on the concrete rain gutter going into or out of my driveway. It sounds horrible- like I'm destroying the whole bottom of the car- which of course it is not. I'm not sure why this needs to stick down that much farther than the stock pinch weld but if you have a tall rain gutter like my driveway or your car is lowered, it will be an issue. Just a heads up... Maybe Steeda can make these without the extra hanging down past the diameter of the tube? See picture 1.

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