Steeda sport or eibach sportline springs?

[Escue]

I want to lower my car and I've narrowed it down to the steeda sport progressive springs or the eibach sportline progressive springs. I've heard linear lowering springs are tough, and the roads near me are total crap with speedbumps and whatnot so I'm not planning to go that route. I know the eibach offer about .5" more drop which actually is part of the allure for me, however I hear that the car will eat tires if I dont buy camber plates. Is there any truth to this? Guess I'm Just wondering if anyone has had both and which one they thought was superior to the other. Any advice is always appreciated!

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[2017GBGTPP]

I don't have an opinion on this, but AM is giving away a set of the Eibach Sportlines at the end of the month. You might as well enter, getting them for free might help you decide

 

[Escue]

I don't have an opinion on this, but AM is giving away a set of the Eibach Sportlines at the end of the month. You might as well enter, getting them for free might help you decide

I'd definately take them but I would rather pay full price to get what best suits me.... that's not say I wont sign up for this giveaway lol

 

[Escue]

I feel like I've made my decision, the deciding factor now is whether or not I need camber plates for the sportlines....?

 

[Matt-23]

I have the Sportlines from Eibach however I wish I had of spent the little bit extra and just done the coilovers from the beginning. I don't have camber plates and my car alignment place hasn't had an issue aligning the car, I've had it done a few times, lowing the car, new 20in wheels fitted and no issues.

 

[tcman54]

I have Steeda lowering springs and the ride does indeed become more harsh, however all the roads around me down here in Florida are nice and smooth so I don't give a rats arse.

The look and added handling offset the rode harshness for me.

I didn't put on camber plates, not needed, camber doesn't cause tire wear, toe angle does, my car is correct via alignment after putting on the springs so I am happy.

TC

 

[Escue]

I have Steeda lowering springs and the ride does indeed become more harsh, however all the roads around me down here in Florida are nice and smooth so I don't give a rats arse.

The look and added handling offset the rode harshness for me.

I didn't put on camber plates, not needed, camber doesn't cause tire wear, toe angle does, my car is correct via alignment after putting on the springs so I am happy.

TC

Too much camber definately causes excess wear on tires, and considering the cost to buy new pilot sport 4 tires I dont want the added bill. And when I say my roads are crap; i really just mean the few that are around my neighborhood. so i can cope as long as it doesnt ride like a stage coach lol

 

[Escue]

I have the Sportlines from Eibach however I wish I had of spent the little bit extra and just done the coilovers from the beginning. I don't have camber plates and my car alignment place hasn't had an issue aligning the car, I've had it done a few times, lowing the car, new 20in wheels fitted and no issues.

Wish I could afford coilovers. But the other half would kill me in my sleep!

 

[fmc_smt]

Sportline for me , I did add strut plates . Running a large tire set up with no rubs .

 

[tj@steeda]

Steeda progressives are our best selling spring & when paired with our Pro-Action Shocks & Struts, the ride quality is awesome!

Whenever we do a shop job with the lowering springs, we always install or strongly recommend the camber plates. Because the car will be lower, you will need camber plates to be able to align the car properly ... that is where our 555-8139 Steeda Camber plates come into play.

The factory strut mounts have no adjustment for camber. Running our Camber plates in place of the factory mounts will allow you to align the car properly.

Let me know if I can help put together a package deal for you ... if you are looking to take it one step further, our Progressives & Active Shocks & Struts will give you an improved ride quality & great appearance!

TJ

 

[Bear_Stang]

Steeda progressives are our best selling spring & when paired with our Pro-Action Shocks & Struts, the ride quality is awesome!

Whenever we do a shop job with the lowering springs, we always install or strongly recommend the camber plates. Because the car will be lower, you will need camber plates to be able to align the car properly ... that is where our 555-8139 Steeda Camber plates come into play.

The factory strut mounts have no adjustment for camber. Running our Camber plates in place of the factory mounts will allow you to align the car properly.

Let me know if I can help put together a package deal for you ... if you are looking to take it one step further, our Progressives & Active Shocks & Struts will give you an improved ride quality & great appearance!

TJ

Quick questions:
What is the difference between the "Steeda S550 MustangProgressive Lowering Springs, Camber Plate, Non-Adjustable Shocks & Strut Combo Kit" and the "Steeda S550 Mustang Sport Suspension Package (including Steeda Billet Shock Mounts and Steeda Camber Plates)"?

 

[ColeTrickle]

I just did the steeda progressives. They ride really good and they eliminated the annoying PP1 rear bounce my car had.

The car came down way more in the front than I expected and had to use there lifting plates to keep the car from rubbing inner fenders with my aftermarket wheel/tire combo.

You will need to adjust camber front and rear with plates or bolts. I ended up at -2 camber front and rear and I believe factory specs are closer to -.75

Car looks and handles great but as my first mustang that I lowered it cost more with needed bits to do it correct where you don't kill tires.

 

[Vstang2]

I have an install at 9am Monday at Steeda in GA to install the progressive springs , active shocks and camber plates.....I can't wait. I wanna see if they can install an H pipe while I'm there.

 

[shogun32]

I ended up at -2 camber front and rear

@BmacIL will likely chime in with reducing the rear to something under 1.7

 

[BmacIL]

@BmacIL will likely chime in with reducing the rear to something under 1.7

Depends on what you're doing with the car. A 0.2 to 0.5 deg stagger F to R seems to be optimal, with the rear no more positive than -1.0. For someone who does track time/autocross, -2.5 or more is preferred up front.

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