Steeda S550 Mustang Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction Kit (15-19 All)

Norm Peterson

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Well, I have Eibach Pro Kit springs, they lower 1" in the front and 0.8" in the rear so I think I could use this kit.
<snip>
I see very complicated how to align once the Bumpsteer Kit is mounted.

Do you have a document with the alignment dimensions already created to make it easier?
Bumpsteer correction is an iterative process where you're looking for the least amounts of toe change over the range of suspension travel. And it can be sensitive to small changes in the shim thickness used at the outer (rod-ended) tierod end.


Norm
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pacomicro

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Bumpsteer correction is an iterative process where you're looking for the least amounts of toe change over the range of suspension travel. And it can be sensitive to small changes in the shim thickness used at the outer (rod-ended) tierod end.


Norm
So I think I understand that it has to be done individually on each car, right?
 

Norm Peterson

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Yup.

You don't know where your car started out at for bumpsteer, or how much your actual lowering would have affected it.


Norm
 

pacomicro

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Yup.

You don't know where your car started out at for bumpsteer, or how much your actual lowering would have affected it.


Norm
What does seem clear is that the Toe, both front and back, should be as close to 0 as possible.
Any other recommendations to take to the alignment shop?
Here in Spain, at least in the area where I live, there are no competent workshops that know what they do, I prefer to go and tell them how I have to leave it.
 

pacomicro

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What does seem clear is that the Toe, both front and back, should be as close to 0 as possible.
Any other recommendations to take to the alignment shop?
Here in Spain, at least in the area where I live, there are no competent workshops that know what they do, I prefer to go and tell them how I have to leave it.
Currently this is what I have:

Front:
-Camber : -1º30'
-Caster: 7º16'
-Toe: 0,7 mm (0,02 inch)
REAR:
-Camber: -1º60'
-Toe: 0,9 mm (0,03 inch)
-Thrust Angle: 0º00'

I don't use the car every day, I like to drive fast on the highway and on the mountain roads that I have in the area where I live.
 

Norm Peterson

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What does seem clear is that the Toe, both front and back, should be as close to 0 as possible.
Any other recommendations to take to the alignment shop?
Here in Spain, at least in the area where I live, there are no competent workshops that know what they do, I prefer to go and tell them how I have to leave it.
Rear toe - per side here - should be around 0.10°. Total about 0.20°. On a 27" OD tire I think that would correspond to 0.047" (1.2mm) per side, 0.094" (2.4mm) total. This to ensure that neither rear toe ever goes into toe-out, which would make for nervous handling.

Front toe can be around half that. For street duty, you still want to have slight amounts of toe-in rather than toe-out. Toe-out up front can also cause the steering to feel 'twitchy', which is quite tiring for the driver. Just a little toe-in makes driving much more relaxing.


Norm
 

pacomicro

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Rear toe - per side here - should be around 0.10°. Total about 0.20°. On a 27" OD tire I think that would correspond to 0.047" (1.2mm) per side, 0.094" (2.4mm) total. This to ensure that neither rear toe ever goes into toe-out, which would make for nervous handling.

Front toe can be around half that. For street duty, you still want to have slight amounts of toe-in rather than toe-out. Toe-out up front can also cause the steering to feel 'twitchy', which is quite tiring for the driver. Just a little toe-in makes driving much more relaxing.


Norm
Thank you for your help.
So it looks like the alignment I have on the car right now is not too bad, right?
 

Norm Peterson

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Probably close enough.

That said, if oversteer seems to come too easily on corner exit you may want to dial in just a little more rear toe-in.


Norm
 

SlowStangGT

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I have a mental thought exercise:

I'm running at -1.9 degrees front camber with the RCC and MM plates slid all the way over.
Without the RCC, I would probably be at -2.5 to -2.7 due to the RCC's track width reduction.

Focusing solely on tire contact patch surface area, and ignoring its improvements to steering feel and roll: will the car corner harder with the RCC [as a standalone kit] given the amount of static camber loss? I have a hunch that the control arm arc's improved camber gain does not fully offset the static camber loss during compression...

FWIW, I'm planning on cutting the strut tower hole open, so I'll be getting the best of both worlds later on 😂. I definitely am satisfied with the steering feel and responsiveness with the RCC
 

krishelnino

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I have a mental thought exercise:

I'm running at -1.9 degrees front camber with the RCC and MM plates slid all the way over.
Without the RCC, I would probably be at -2.5 to -2.7 due to the RCC's track width reduction.

Focusing solely on tire contact patch surface area, and ignoring its improvements to steering feel and roll: will the car corner harder with the RCC [as a standalone kit] given the amount of static camber loss? I have a hunch that the control arm arc's improved camber gain does not fully offset the static camber loss during compression...

FWIW, I'm planning on cutting the strut tower hole open, so I'll be getting the best of both worlds later on 😂. I definitely am satisfied with the steering feel and responsiveness with the RCC
-1.9 max seems low even with RCC arms. I'm at -2.2 with Steeda camber plates and RCC. I can easily go upto -2.7 without opening the strut tower hole
 

SlowStangGT

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-1.9 max seems low even with RCC arms. I'm at -2.2 with Steeda camber plates and RCC. I can easily go upto -2.7 without opening the strut tower hole
Passenger side max'd at -1.9, driver was -2.2. I had to settle for -1.9 lol. I'm also on the Maximum Motorsports CC plates
 

aleccolin

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-1.9 max seems low even with RCC arms. I'm at -2.2 with Steeda camber plates and RCC. I can easily go upto -2.7 without opening the strut tower hole
I don’t know how you’ve managed this, I’m at -2 degrees front with RCC arms and Steeda plates, and the strut nut is very close to touching the hole in the tower on one side, got about 1/16” on the other side.

Passenger side max'd at -1.9, driver was -2.2. I had to settle for -1.9 lol. I'm also on the Maximum Motorsports CC plates
This more closely resembles my experience. To get more camber my options are open up the strut tower holes or go back to the OE control arms.

With the decreased track width that comes along with the RCC arms I should be able to fit 305s on the front now, so I think I’ll just let it ride.
 

krishelnino

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I don’t know how you’ve managed this, I’m at -2 degrees front with RCC arms and Steeda plates, and the strut nut is very close to touching the hole in the tower on one side, got about 1/16” on the other side.



This more closely resembles my experience. To get more camber my options are open up the strut tower holes or go back to the OE control arms.

With the decreased track width that comes along with the RCC arms I should be able to fit 305s on the front now, so I think I’ll just let it ride.
Yeah I'm not sure. This was the last alignment I got a year ago, and the nut was not even close to making contact

20200618_105742.jpg
 

SlowStangGT

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Yeah I'm not sure. This was the last alignment I got a year ago, and the nut was not even close to making contact

20200618_105742.jpg
That's a lot of LF caster 😯
What are the caster/camber plates you're using?
 

krishelnino

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