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Steeda S550 Mustang Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction Kit (15-19 All)

Dr. Norts

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Hi Everyone, The Steeda Rod end balls are made from stainless steel with a teflon liner and wiper. No need for a dust boot. We have sold over 20,000 kits in the past decade with no failures due to the elements. Furthermore, they have a lifetime guarantee.

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As expected from Steeda :)
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Barrel

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So I finally got some miles with this kit installed. What a difference! Also found a broken sway bar mount, so added some adjustables. The car is absolutely fantastic now. Firmly planted, very stable, no body roll. It's actually a little bit unsettling at first since I've never had a car with a suspension as modified as mine is now. I can see why people do it.

I just become more of a Steeda fanboy all the time.
 
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So I finally got some miles with this kit installed. What a difference! Also found a broken sway bar mount, so added some adjustables. The car is absolutely fantastic now. Firmly planted, very stable, no body roll. It's actually a little bit unsettling at first since I've never had a car with a suspension as modified as mine is now. I can see why people do it.

I just become more of a Steeda fanboy all the time.
Thank you for your feedback!!

If you have any questions please reach out.

Mike D @954-960-0774
 

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And I'm back to shill for Steeda... Had my car doing some half mile racing last weekend. With trap speeds in excess of 175mph and a stiff 20mph sustained crosswind the car has never felt more stable. My suspension is completely dialed in.

My setup:

Steeda Dual Rate Springs
Steeda Single Adjustable Dampers
Steeda Rear Billet Shock Mounts
Steeda Bump Steer and Roll Center Kit
Steeda Ultimate Stop the Hop Kit
Steeda Sway Bar Endlinks (broke a stock one)
Steeda Race Diff Bushings

It's just unreal how good the car performs now. I'm very grateful that companies like Steeda are out here making awesome parts. I have a certifiable race car now and it's amazing. Not saying that you have to throw the whole catalog at the car to make it work, but man does everything work well together.

Shout out to Frank and Mike and everyone down there making magic happen.
 

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brings a tear to my eye!
 

SteveW

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Steeda, thanks for offering such a reasonably priced product to improve our cars! I ordered the roll center correcting control arms and bumpsteer kit a few weeks ago but have so far just installed the control arms.

While I haven't tested it on the autox course yet I can definitely feel a difference on the road: lighter, more responsive steering, increased roll resistance but without the tradeoffs you'd get from going for the same thing via stiffer springs or bar setting.

Amazing how geometry works.

Also, I think the arms by themselves improved any bumpsteer I might have had. I can't detect any steering issues going over bumps at the moment. I'll monitor this and decide later if I should go ahead and install the rest of the kit.
 
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Steeda, thanks for offering such a reasonably priced product to improve our cars! I ordered the roll center correcting control arms and bumpsteer kit a few weeks ago but have so far just installed the control arms.

While I haven't tested it on the autox course yet I can definitely feel a difference on the road: lighter, more responsive steering, increased roll resistance but without the tradeoffs you'd get from going for the same thing via stiffer springs or bar setting.

Amazing how geometry works.

Also, I think the arms by themselves improved any bumpsteer I might have had. I can't detect any steering issues going over bumps at the moment. I'll monitor this and decide later if I should go ahead and install the rest of the kit.
Hi Steve, thank you for your feedback. If you decide to go with the rest of the kit just pm me for a discount code.

Also, I heard that one of our team members had great results with this kit at a National CMC event. Will post details soon.

Mike D
 
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TheLion

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Hello everyone, I just wanted to add a detailed review on this kit which I installed along with a full performance car alignment at my local performance shop. Prior to this kit I was running BMR SP080 springs with MaximumMotorsports Caster / Camber plates (1.2" front and 0.5" rear drop), stock PP struts and bars, BMR CB05 IRS lockout and Ford Performance outer toe link spherical bearings all riding on stock P Zeros and staggered PP wheels as my existing setup prior to installing this kit. Suspension has been an area where my knowledge (along with many other's) was quite lacking and after some extensive study on geometry I realized where my problems lie (which I introduced by lowering, especially without compensating with stiffer springs and bars) and how to properly correct them before throwing more bar or spring at the car like many novices do. There is more than one way to achieve positive results, but some methods are more optimal than others.

Lowering my 2016 Performance Package GT with BMR's SP080 springs resulted in substantially less dive and squat, lower CG and a very nice raked look that I absolutely love. BMR's SP080 spring rates are well matched for the limited damping capabilities of the stock Performance Package struts, so ride quality actually improves over the factory springs (rids the car of the "PP bounce"). However the significant change in front ride height resulted in substantially reduced steering response, reduced front tire contact patch and hence grip and added significant amount of roll couple. Because the BMR SP080 spring rates are nearly identical to stock PP springs and I was still running stock PP bars (32mm front and 22.2mm rear), the effects of roll couple were more pronounced in my setup than others, so perhaps I have a unique view on this and how dramatic the changes are simply due to a corrected geometry. Along with the good attributes came some ugliness in the form of significant compromises to the handling dynamics of the S550 that I had not originally thought out due to lowering the ride height.

On top of those negatives, I also experienced some mild increase in bump steer with the stock PP staggered wheel / tire setup but a substantial increase in bump-steer with my wide offset 4 square setup I run in the warmer months (RTR Tech 7 19x9.5's with +33mm offset). After installing the roll center and bump steer correction kit the car's dynamics have completely changed. The steering response and front end grip increased dramatically as did the overall grip of the car laterally during cornering, the car as actually improved over the stock setup in every way instead of trading one attribute while loosing another. The car feels far more planted now than it did after the initial lowering, where the steering pushed even more than stock and felt disconnected enough that I would often take corner entry and mid-corner at a slower speed than I wanted to due to a lack of confidence and feedback in the outright grip. The car just wanted to push hard and this slowed me down, I couldn't drive hard into corners, especially after adding a Ford Performance Power Pack 2 and JTL 3.0 catch can, increasing the mid-range torque substantially only exacerbated the issue.

The lowered roll center also gave the car a "tipping sensation" when close to the limits mid-corner where when the car felt like the car was going to actually roll over even if it wasn't, almost as it it was suddenly lifting the inside tires, a very unsettling feeling to have in 80 mph to 90 mph high speed sweepers. This is due to the increased roll couple without an increase in spring and bar rates to compensate. To add insult to injury the inside shoulder wear on my front tires was excessive, the inside shoulder would wear at 2x the rate of the rest of the tread = not good for either street or track car. Even worse, one must run more static camber up front as there is a loss in camber gain from a lowered roll center. While that may be acceptable on a track car, it creates tire wear issues on a street / track dual purpose car. So tire performance degrades more rapidly and results in a shorter tread life.

The roll center and bump steer kit has corrected all of the front end geometry issues I experienced after lowering my 2016 PP GT. Thankfully the rear drop is very mild and has not introduced any geometry issues, being only 0.5", but the front end was a hot mess. I am actually able to apply full throttle mid corner and hold all the way through exit now. I can actually drive into corners now with confidence where before I would slow down significantly on entry due to the heavy push and lack of outright grip. The chassis now communicates what's going between the tires and road far more effectively, the car is now "sticking to the road" rather than "gliding across it" as it was before. The balance front to rear is very good with just a very minor amount of under steer that can be corrected with throttle mid-corner, the car almost steers itself on exit and I can focus on putting all of the timing advance the Power Pack 2 has to offer into the tires and hold it much longer before braking on the next corner, actually driving into the corner rather than "cautiously entering" it. This is how the S550 should have been set up from the factory, as lesser variant of the impressively balanced Shelby GT350, not an over glorified Ford Fusion with a V8 engine masquerading in a Mustang body.

Roll couple is dramatically reduced as well and while the stock PP sway bars and SP080 springs still permit some roll, it's far better managed by them. The roll couple no longer off-setts the benefits of a lower CG. So the net roll couple is LESS than stock despite having the same bar and spring rates as stock AND a slightly lower CG which reduces weight transfer. The substantial gain in front end grip is another benefit of corrected geometry, all without changing springs, bars or tires due to the far more ideal contact patch. Your simply making more effective use of what's already there. While I haven't put enough miles on the car yet to determine inside shoulder tread wear, I'd imagine based on how the geometry changes have affected the car thus far that it will be significantly reduced to the point where it's no longer an issue.

Here is a summary of the positive effects of correcting roll center and bump steer in a lowered car with no other changes (includes pros of lowering with roll center and bump steer correction):
1. Restores the tire contact patch which significantly increases front end cornering grip and reduces inside shoulder tread wear.
2. Restores steering response.
3. Eliminates the "tipping sensation" when close to the limits due to decreased roll couple, which effectively increases maximum lateral grip by more evenly distributing load forces on all 4 tires. It also provides the driver more confidence in corners.
4. Due to greater tire contact patch, the car will feel more "planted" in the front end, encouraging you drive into a corner harder on entry and brake later.
5. Reduces or eliminates that sudden "pulling" of the front end in corners due to bump steer
6. Lowers CG slightly which has a mild reduction in weight transfer, thus has a similar effect to a mild increase in bar or spring rates WITHOUT reducing the independence of the suspension or upsetting ride quality for street cars.
7. Restores the originally designed chamber gain, so less static camber is needed, which is especially good for street cars. Multi-link strut front ends need all the camber gain they can get!

Negatives of roll center and bump steer correction on a lowered car:
1. Less suspension travel to soak up bumps
2. Added cost of parts, installation and alignment
3. Some tire setups may have clearance issues
4. May limit adjustment ranges on toe, caster / chamber even with caster / camber plates (on my car, the Tech said that adding more than -1.4 camber up front with a 7.2 caster setting would throw the toe off excessively even though the bump steer is set and I'm running caster / chamber plates, I'm not sure if this limit would occur on a stock ride height with stock links / steering or if it's a negative effect of lowering even with a corrected geometry).

Yah, I post a lot. Get over it any enjoy my excessively detailed review so you can make a decision as to weather or not correcting the geometry on your lowered S550 is worth it. If you primarily drag race or tour and rarely push the car, you may not reap enough of the benefits to justify the cost. However if you are into HPDE, Auto X or even Corner Carving on back roads it is very well worth the price of admission and provides a proper foundation from which to build up from in the future.
 

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Nonsequitur

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Thanks for the review! I too have the roll center and bump steer kit. Although probably isn't quite as low as yours (Magneride with Steeda 1" lowering springs), the kit did reduce the negative effects of lowering the car's suspension by quite a bit.

2018-10-08 13.15.42.jpg
 

TheLion

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Your bump steer set that high up? I had to use the large spacer and two of the three medium spacers above the ball stud to get the tie rod parallel with the lateral link. Tech said it was nearly perfectly set as I had it and only made a minor tweak to bump steer height. With the ball joint on your tie rod that high up it would seem that with the extended stud lateral link your bump-steer is off unless there is something different about the steering or hub knuckle on the 2018's vs my 2016. Just an observation.
 

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I do have one question for @SteedaTech , what is the specific ride height that the extended stud lateral links are set for? I realize roll center can move around a small amount (small changes in ride height) without going into the weeds, however there is a "neutral" point it is designed for and most ideal. Is it 1" drop from factory?
 

Nonsequitur

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Your bump steer set that high up? I had to use the large spacer and two of the three medium spacers above the ball stud to get the tie rod parallel with the lateral link. Tech said it was nearly perfectly set as I had it and only made a minor tweak to bump steer height. With the ball joint on your tie rod that high up it would seem that with the extended stud lateral link your bump-steer is off unless there is something different about the steering or hub knuckle on the 2018's vs my 2016. Just an observation.
That picture was taken just after the install. It was adjusted after it went in for alignment. All I can say is that the drive to the alignment shop was "interesting". LoL
 

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I do have one question for @SteedaTech , what is the specific ride height that the extended stud lateral links are set for? I realize roll center can move around a small amount (small changes in ride height) without going into the weeds, however there is a "neutral" point it is designed for and most ideal. Is it 1" drop from factory?
This is what I want answer to. It says it benefits all lowered cars, but it’s a fixed link. So it must work best at a certain height I’d assume. Just saying anything more than .5” benefits from it- I’d be interested if I had more information.
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