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Steeda front sway bar preload issues

NvrFinished

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So I've been in the process of updating my suspension with RideTech Level ll coilovers, Steeda front and rear sway bars with billet mounts, BMR rear LCA bushings, adjustable rear toe rod and camber arms, BMR cradle alignment, and etc... I have the complete list in this thread if interested: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73448&highlight=suspension+nvh

The problem I am currently having is with swaybar preload - primarily on the front. I was having a heck of a time trying to level out the front of the car before I took it in for an alignment. The LF was sitting lower than the RF. When I finally got the front level and at the height I wanted, there was a full 1/2" difference in measured preload between the two fronts with the RF having the least amount.

My suspicions got the best of me at this point and I lifted the front up and disconnected the front sway bar. Low and behold, when I set the car back down and cycled the suspension, the right front was now sitting over 3/8" of an inch lower than the left.

I know this can be corrected with adjustable end links and they were on my future "parts to purchase" list anyways since I had heard that the stock links are susceptible to bending under aggressive driving. However, my concern is why am I getting swaybar preload to begin with? I searched the internet for the causes of swaybar preload and and the only thing I could find was how set up a car with preload or how to install adjustable end links to avoid it. No one really discusses why you get it.

My first thought was a bent sway bar, but from what I understand it is rare for a new bar. I was also concerned with how the bar rotates once clamped down without the links connected. Some are saying it should rotate freely, others are saying no. I was wondering if it was binding in some way to cause the preload. When clamped down it rotates smoothly, but it is very difficult to move. Lube isn't an issue as I used more than was necessary on the bushings and a lot squeezed out initially when torquing the clamps.

I contacted someone at Steeda who consulted with tech. Tech said a stiff bar is not uncommon and to adjust the height of the car without the bars hooked up, get it aligned that way, and then install the adjustable end links to avoid the preload. Apparently tech is saying that I need to get some miles on the bar to get it working smoothly.

Does this sound right? They gave me a deal on the adjustable end links which is great since I knew I was going to purchase them anyways, but I wanted to check if anyone else has some experience with this? Of all the threads I've read here, I haven't seen anyone discuss sway bar preload.

Any insight is appreciated :D
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BMR Tech

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The issue is simply the fact that there are too many variables that play a role in the preload of the bar.

To accurately determine what is causing it, you would need to spend many hours removing and replacing parts and discovering where all of the compounding tolerances are found.

For example, if the lever arms on your bars are 1/32" off...and your end link mounts on your struts are off 1/32"...and the strut towers are off 1/64".....then you have now compounded all these measurements which will put load into the sway bar.

My recommendation is, everyone who has stiffer sway bars "technically" needs adjustable sway bar mounts. The reason is because, with equal length (stock) links you will A: Have preload when you have fuel and you sit in the car, and B: They bend like noodles.

This is why, our ELK012 Adjustable End Link Kit was one of the very first products we released for the S550 platform. ;)

Throw them on, set the bars to neutral with you in the car and enjoy.
 

SteedaTech

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So I've been in the process of updating my suspension with RideTech Level ll coilovers, Steeda front and rear sway bars with billet mounts, BMR rear LCA bushings, adjustable rear toe rod and camber arms, BMR cradle alignment, and etc... I have the complete list in this thread if interested: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73448&highlight=suspension+nvh

The problem I am currently having is with swaybar preload - primarily on the front. I was having a heck of a time trying to level out the front of the car before I took it in for an alignment. The LF was sitting lower than the RF. When I finally got the front level and at the height I wanted, there was a full 1/2" difference in measured preload between the two fronts with the RF having the least amount.

My suspicions got the best of me at this point and I lifted the front up and disconnected the front sway bar. Low and behold, when I set the car back down and cycled the suspension, the right front was now sitting over 3/8" of an inch lower than the left.

I know this can be corrected with adjustable end links and they were on my future "parts to purchase" list anyways since I had heard that the stock links are susceptible to bending under aggressive driving. However, my concern is why am I getting swaybar preload to begin with? I searched the internet for the causes of swaybar preload and and the only thing I could find was how set up a car with preload or how to install adjustable end links to avoid it. No one really discusses why you get it.

My first thought was a bent sway bar, but from what I understand it is rare for a new bar. I was also concerned with how the bar rotates once clamped down without the links connected. Some are saying it should rotate freely, others are saying no. I was wondering if it was binding in some way to cause the preload. When clamped down it rotates smoothly, but it is very difficult to move. Lube isn't an issue as I used more than was necessary on the bushings and a lot squeezed out initially when torquing the clamps.

I contacted someone at Steeda who consulted with tech. Tech said a stiff bar is not uncommon and to adjust the height of the car without the bars hooked up, get it aligned that way, and then install the adjustable end links to avoid the preload. Apparently tech is saying that I need to get some miles on the bar to get it working smoothly.

Does this sound right? They gave me a deal on the adjustable end links which is great since I knew I was going to purchase them anyways, but I wanted to check if anyone else has some experience with this? Of all the threads I've read here, I haven't seen anyone discuss sway bar preload.

Any insight is appreciated :D
Set your corner weights and ride height, then set your end links with no preload to get started.
 
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NvrFinished

NvrFinished

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OK. I went ahead and took out the O.E. sway bar end links and set my ride height with weight in the front seat and 3/4 tank of gas. I will take it to the shop for an alignment next week and then install the adjustable end links.

I'm just surprised that no one has raised this issue before when it comes to sway bar preload. Could it be that nonbody is really noticing the issue?
 

SteedaTech

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OK. I went ahead and took out the O.E. sway bar end links and set my ride height with weight in the front seat and 3/4 tank of gas. I will take it to the shop for an alignment next week and then install the adjustable end links.

I'm just surprised that no one has raised this issue before when it comes to sway bar preload. Could it be that nonbody is really noticing the issue?
Perfect. They could be adjusting them to the OE length or adjusting to ride height like you are doing which is correct. Also, with the adjustable ends you can actually jack weight around as well, recommended for the very experience in chassis tuning and for different tracks.
 
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FWIW, my sway bars, when disconnected entirely, will rotate. It's not like I can just do it with a pinky finger, but I can rotate them. The bushings are greased. The stock sway bars will not rotate because the bushing is glued to the bar, at least in the rear they are. If the stock rear sway bar rotates, then I think that's an issue. Obviously you have aftermarket bars, same ones as me, and if they rotate (but not any other movements) with no end links connected - far as I know that's fine. Means you've greased them well.
 
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NvrFinished

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The bars are greased real well, they just don't rotate easy. It takes some effort. Right now I can drive the car without worry of them rotating down with the links out. Steeda tech said they will loosen up once they are connected and have a chance to move around some. We'll see...

I'm just surprised that I seem to be the only person who noticed that the sway bars are affecting ride height. It was a difference of over 3/8".
 

SteedaTech

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The bars are greased real well, they just don't rotate easy. It takes some effort. Right now I can drive the car without worry of them rotating down with the links out. Steeda tech said they will loosen up once they are connected and have a chance to move around some. We'll see...

I'm just surprised that I seem to be the only person who noticed that the sway bars are affecting ride height. It was a difference of over 3/8".
Preloading the sway bar will jack weight around and affect ride height.
 
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wildcatgoal

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The bars are greased real well, they just don't rotate easy. It takes some effort. Right now I can drive the car without worry of them rotating down with the links out. Steeda tech said they will loosen up once they are connected and have a chance to move around some. We'll see...

I'm just surprised that I seem to be the only person who noticed that the sway bars are affecting ride height. It was a difference of over 3/8".
Mine don't rotate on their own. I have to make them move, of course.
 

jbailer

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The bars are greased real well, they just don't rotate easy. It takes some effort. Right now I can drive the car without worry of them rotating down with the links out. Steeda tech said they will loosen up once they are connected and have a chance to move around some. We'll see...

I'm just surprised that I seem to be the only person who noticed that the sway bars are affecting ride height. It was a difference of over 3/8".
I could be wrong, just a guess here but don't the sway bars add pre-load just like the springs? I would think that would be a normal thing. As far as different on each side, that sounds like an install issue to me. Mine measure 1/16" difference between the 2 sides in my garage and that might be how level the surface is.
 

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Can you set the pre-load by driving the front wheels on ramps?
I just drove up ramps and took the bottom end link nut off both sides and the end links came out freely, does that mean its close? I am lowered about an inch with the factory end links installed at the moment.
 

DocWalt

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Can you set the pre-load by driving the front wheels on ramps?
I just drove up ramps and took the bottom end link nut off both sides and the end links came out freely, does that mean its close? I am lowered about an inch with the factory end links installed at the moment.
That should be fine. If they fought you at all coming out of the bar then you'd need adjustable links.
 

gsxr1300

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