Steeda Camber Plates with Bilstein B6

[mali321]

Hello all! Nice to talk to you guys. I'm a long-time reader/browser, first-time poster.
I have a 2019 GT non-PP and had been gathering a few suspension parts which I plan on getting around to in the near future. For now I was trying to assemble the front struts. I went with the Bilstein B6, BMR Handling springs, and Steeda camber plates, along with new upper and lower rubber isolators.
My problem is the strut nut is not sitting flush with the strut shaft. I just got off the phone with Bilstein and they advised to crank down the strut nut while holding the shaft with an allen key, which is what I'll do. However I had a message out to Steeda as well and they recommended not to use the washer that came with the Bilstein strut/nut. Does anyone here have experience with this install and if removing the washer was necessary? I saw a post someone made with photos but couldn't understand what the resolution was with regards to this washer ‐ would I be able to use it or do I have to remove it?
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ngs-struts-install-problems-questions.102163/

Below are some photos I had taken to show that the strut nut isn't sitting flush with the shaft, but assuming that's not an issue once the nut is cranked down, you can see the washer I'm referring to as well.

Thanks for your help!

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[Jaymar]

Is that nut actually bottomed out or did it just stop because it hit the nylock section? In order to work, the threads need to actually extend through the blue plastic section of the nylock nut otherwise you have no protection against the nut loosening up with strut rotation. If you can't get that otherwise, I'd remove the washer but try cinching down the nut while holding the shaft with a hex key first.

 

[mali321]

Is that nut actually bottomed out or did it just stop because it hit the nylock section? In order to work, the threads need to actually extend through the blue plastic section of the nylock nut otherwise you have no protection against the nut loosening up with strut rotation. If you can't get that otherwise, I'd remove the washer but try cinching down the nut while holding the shaft with a hex key first.

Thanks @Jaymar ! I'll try that, probably won't get to it until sometime next week but will keep you posted. Thanks for your help!

 

[Siege]

I just assembled my Bilsteins with the same Steeda plates and mine looked the same. I assembled them with the washer the Bilsteins came with first and they looked the same as yours so I removed the washer and the nut is now even with the top of the strut.

After I install them in the car I'm going to blue loctite the nut and torque it to spec.

 

[GregO]

This is the correct tool needed to properly install Strut shaft mounting nuts.
Spinning the strut shaft is a sure way to tear up the internal piston seals.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Can’t recall off top of my head but there’s a spark plug socket size that fits that nut. Most spark plug sockets have a hex shape so you can put a wrench on them and slip and Allen key through the center of the socket to torque the nut.

Also… You’ll be blown away by the bilstein/BMR handling spring combo.

 

[mali321]

Thanks @Siege , @GregO , and @NeverSatisfied !

@Siege that's what Steeda's tech also suggested -- that I remove the washer. I would have ideally liked to keep it as well, but I guess that's not possible.
I was going to loctite and torque the strut nut before installing it in the car

@GregO fortunately I realized the shaft was spinning fairly quickly -- hopefully no long-lasting damage there!
Thanks for sharing a photo of the toolset!

@NeverSatisfied Yeah thanks! I ordered a crowfoot wrench that can be used with a torque wrench (and of course has an opening that can be used to access the hex slot). And thanks for the strut/spring feedback! I'm looking forward to it and very excited about it!

 

[shogun32]

This is the correct tool needed to properly install Strut shaft mounting nuts.

https://images.toolsid.com/hazet/info/pdf/2021-tools-catalog.pdf
page 433 or
https://www.amazon.com/Hazet-4910-13-Shock-absorber/dp/B001C9TFMM

 

[mali321]

Hello all! Thanks for your replies and tips!

I went ahead and installed it today, unfortunately only on one side as I was running out of time. Thank you all for your tips, thanks @Jaymar and @Siege for the suggestion about removing the washer on the Bilsteins, thanks @GregO , @NeverSatisfied , and @shogun32 for help with the right strut tool. I ended up using a crowfoot and a hex allen key, with a wrench "on" the allex key for extra leverage.

Had one issue with the boot popping off of the Steeda lateral links (tried tightening the nut without holding the stud with a wrench). Just in case someone else runs into that

And lastly need to ziptie or find a solution to attach the wire that is originally attached to the factory strut (the factory strut has 2 openings for the wire to attach to, whereas the Bilsteins only have one of those openings) -- @Siege you may see this also when you install your struts

Hopefully will wrap this up next week, get an alignment, and call it a day!

Thanks again all!

 

[Siege]

And lastly need to ziptie or find a solution to attach the wire that is originally attached to the factory strut (the factory strut has 2 openings for the wire to attach to, whereas the Bilsteins only have one of those openings) -- @Siege you may see this also when you install your struts

I'm in the middle of installing mine too! The Bilsteins came with a zip tie to replace the lower wire mount that pushes on to the threaded studs sticking out of the bottom of the strut.

Double check your box because mine were just loose in there.

 

[mali321]

I'm in the middle of installing mine too! The Bilsteins came with a zip tie to replace the lower wire mount that pushes on to the threaded studs sticking out of the bottom of the strut.

Double check your box because mine were just loose in there.

Ohhh that makes sense! I saw the threaded studs you're talking about, but didn't understand what the purpose was. Okay I will double-check the boxes; I know mine were slightly damaged just from regular shipping so they must have just fell out into the "main box" -- thanks for telling me about it!

 

[Siege]

I had it sitting on the workbench so I grabbed a picture

 

[mali321]

I had it sitting on the workbench so I grabbed a picture

I found it! Lol thanks @Siege ! Yeah unfortunately I only found one of them, so I just contacted Bilstein asking for a replacement.
But definitely wouldn't have even known about it had you not told me -- much appreciated man!

 

[mali321]

Hello all! Was able to complete the install last night (all 4 corners) -- thank you all for your tips and suggestions!
If anyone needs to bounce any ideas please feel free to message me. @Siege I hope your install goes smoothly as well -- let me know if there's anything I can advise on!

On the fronts, like I said the boot clip on the Steeda lateral link that I was also replacing popped off. That was really my only issue. I also was a little confused with the placement of the washers on the bump steer kit. Just had to revisit one of the fronts to correct this. My toe is visually clearly off lol, I have an alignment scheduled for next week. @NeverSatisfied can't wait to experience it after the alignment!

On the rears I had a hard time installing the subframe alignment kit -- if it wasn't for that I would've probably been in and out. I'm not sure if it was because of the way I lowered the subframe on both sides, but it was clearly not lining up when it was time to raise it back up. Had to use some leverage in the openings and/or push on it to finally align it. Also the rear subframe alignment sleeve was very, VERY snug. To the point that I had to use grease and hammer/mallet it in. And btw, MAKE SURE to insert the bolt into the rear sleeve BEFORE you push it into the opening, otherwise your exhaust will come in the way and prevent you from inserting the bolt into the narrower sleeve opening. Had to use open pliers and a hammer to hammer out the sleeve when I had this issue
Also the lower rear shock bolt was not going back in for me -- I had to replace it with a new one. I had ordered most of the replacement hardware (since technically it should be replaced each time) including those 4 bolts (2 on each side, for the lower side of the shock) but they only sent me 3. So I reused the old ones but thankfully had a new bolt for the one that wouldn't stay.

Those were really the biggest hiccups I had. A lot of smaller things but nothing too crazy. Again it was really the rear subframe alignment kit (and the fact that my subframe was probably misaligned) that turned it into a bigger nightmare.

Anyway thanks again all!

 

[Siege]

Congrats on getting everything installed! I finished my install and used the same subframe support kit with the alignment bushings and metal inserts in the rear.

After removing the convertible bracing I put a jack under the subframe on one side and removed the front and rear subframe bolt on that side. That gave me enough drop to easily pull the spring out and install the metal inserts and sleeves. The sleeves slid right in for me and the rear bushing insert took some work to get the rear part in but it wasn't that bad.

I feel your pain with the rear shocks. The bonded bushing at the lower shock mount was a hassle to get centered properly to thread the bolts in. On the first side I put the bolts in and then pushed on the shock to compress it then quickly moved the top mount into place which wasn't easy. On the other side I ran the lower shock bolts in while I still had the subframe dropped then held it in place as I jacked the subframe back up which made it a lot easier.

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