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Spring Compression Tool Help

NCFlyer

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I started to install my FR M-5300-X Springs this weekend but could not get the stock spring compressed far enough to relieve enough tension to safely remove the strut rod nut. I borrowed a scissor clamp tool similar to the one used by Bill @ CJ Pony but the tool I had has a safety spacer to prevent smashing the arms together. The clamp tool is from Autozone but it pulled the spring the same amount as the scissor clamp. I installed the tools on the center of the spring (can't connect to the upper and lower coil) and had the spring compressed as far as the tools would allow.
The CJ Pony video shows the spring unmating from the upper spring seat, but mine was not even close to unseating and there's no way I'm backing off the strut nut unless the spring is lose.
I put it all back together but I'm not ready to give up. Does anyone have a tip or trick that will SAFELY work with either one of these tools?

Many thanks.
NCF
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Sithel

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I just recently did my springs with the scissor clamp tool like you have pictured on the left. Mine looks pretty much identical to that and I had no issues grabbing the top and bottom coils to clamp it down. It's tight but does go on there. As a guide with mine I made sure the bolt that you use to tighten it down is on the top side of the spring and not the bottom. I have the factory spring off my car and if you can't get it figured out I could run out in my garage and snap a pic with the compressor on it to give you an idea.
 

markmurfie

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http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/s....oap?ck=Search_N0724_-1_-1&pt=N0724&ppt=C2370


O reilys had the rental(pictured on the right) rented out. I ended up buying the link above. I liked it better as the nut to turn to compress is extended out of the way. I cracked it all the way down and while the middle composited my top and bottom were still touching. I said neck with it and unscrewed the nutholding on the top. Every thing was loose and fine. I'd say put which ever one you felt did a better job compressing the spring and crank it all the way down and in screw the top. If you're uncomfortable go find a shop to do it for you.
 

Coaster

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I cranked it all the way down and while the middle composited my top and bottom were still touching. I said neck with it and unscrewed the nutholding on the top. Every thing was loose and fine. I'd say put which ever one you felt did a better job compressing the spring and crank it all the way down and in screw the top. If you're uncomfortable go find a shop to do it for you.
I used the one on the left in the OPs picture and had the same thing. Fully clamped and the spring was still touching on both ends and didn't feel loose. Once I braved it and loosened the nut just a bit it was loose. It needed under 1/4" more compression and it would have been loose. The BMR springs being shorter were no issue.
 

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Try putting the tool grab points in closer to the middle then spin the strut assemble threading the clamp closer to the ends.

I wouldn't take the advise of loosening the nut, seriously. My dad was a career mechanic who has seen first hand a spring shoot across a garage and take a chomp out of a concrete wall. I am a firefighter/ paramedic and won't mention what I have seen.

If you can't thread the tool far enough to the ends and get complete release of the spring tension either buy/rent/borrow a better tool or take the assembly to any repatible shop and have them remove the OEM spring for you. The shorter springs you will be installing should compress fine with the tool you have so reassembly shouldn't be an issue.

Jaime
 
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NCFlyer

NCFlyer

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I wouldn't take the advise of loosening the nut, seriously. My dad was a career mechanic who has seen first hand a spring shoot across a garage and take a chomp out of a concrete wall. I am a firefighter/ paramedic and won't mention what I have seen.

If you can't thread the tool far enough to the ends and get complete release of the spring tension either buy/rent/borrow a better tool or take the assembly to any repatible shop and have them remove the OEM spring for you. The shorter springs you will be installing should compress fine with the tool you have so reassembly shouldn't be an issue.

Jaime
Good advise so I took them to a local performance shop and had the springs swapped out in less than an hour. The backs were pretty easy and went it without problems.
Thanks again for all the inputs,

Flyer
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