Splitting Headlights for DRL Upgrades

[CasperGT]

Thought I would share my experiences I had with splitting the Mustang Headlights using two methods. One light assembly I did by the Oven Method :doh: (Never Again) and the other I created a Heat Gun method which I believe was the best, quickest and most cleanest method...!

I set up a temp website using WIX to share two photo commentary streams, one for each method. Sorry its a basic site but was free..lol so she's no frills version.

I suggest opening up image one, then click through as for some reason the gallery view does not line them up in correct order.

(I could not find a dedicated thread for Splitting Headlights so my apologies if its replicating :headbonk

Here is the link:

http://allanjonesvip.wix.com/s550headlight

Let me know what you think? :shrug: If you think its useful I will leave the site up

Maybe post yours if you split and share some tips for others. I am helping with another split the weekend after next so might see if we can get some video footage

Cheers
Allan

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[sharp21]

Great tutorial!

 

[mlevans1]

Dam that is a great tutorial!! PLEASE either leave the site up or post the steps/pictures in a thread here. Extermely helpful and makes me more confident i could split the headlights my self instead of paying someone $400 to do it!

 

[CasperGT]

Dam that is a great tutorial!! PLEASE either leave the site up or post the steps/pictures in a thread here. Extermely helpful and makes me more confident i could split the headlights my self instead of paying someone $400 to do it!

No problem....I will leave the site up. Hey thanks for the feedback...

I have started preping mine for internal black out as well as the DRL kit install from DD.

Here is some pics of where I am at so far:

 

[CasperGT]

With Primer...just letting dry fully then a 1200 grit rub and then semi gloss black...!

 

[CasperGT]

Compare the two

 

[SoCalTim]

Nice work!

 

[CasperGT]

Nice work!

Thanks Tim :cheers:

 

[mlevans1]

Compare the two

How close is the gloss black paint you used to the other black of that housing? curious as to why no one paints the whole thing. Everyone tapes everything else off other than the chrome and the reflector. Also, any reason you did a primer coat? I havent seen anyone else do that either.

 

[CasperGT]

How close is the gloss black paint you used to the other black of that housing? curious as to why no one paints the whole thing. Everyone tapes everything else off other than the chrome and the reflector. Also, any reason you did a primer coat? I havent seen anyone else do that either.

It is a perfect match. The reason is that the plastic body is a true black so any true black paint will match up. What will be different is the finish. The paint I used is 'Satin' finish which is just a fraction less gloss than semi-gloss. I chose this finish to match the satin finish of the plate sorrounding the tri-bars.

There is no point painting the whole thing because its only the chrome and reflector that requires painting. In fact, the outer sorround is a very high gloss plastic and would require a lot more preparation to achieve a long term bond of the paint.

I used primer because as a painter many years ago I learnt the principles of binding paint to various materials and conditions. It is wise with plastics to sand the surface with light abrasive to break down the glass like finish so that the primer achieves maximum binding. The primer not only etches to the plastic more efficiently, but enables you to dry rub with a 1200 grit paper to remove any minor scuffing that may have shown through from the plastic abrasion step.

Primer provides the finish paint an excellent binding bed to form a maximum bond. it might not make any difference in the short term but as time goes on there is less chance of peel back by using a primer. BUT for it to be an advantage, it must be a primer suited to plastics.

Here is a pic of the primer I used. Note the reference to its suitability for use on plastic. This is important as it is refering to the chemical compound of the binding agent. An example of this would be how a permenant marker pen binds differently to a non-permanant white board marker pen. Both look the same but one binds to the under surface where as the other lays over as a skin that contracts to form a semi bond.

Also, the thicker the paint you apply is, the more likely it is that the bond fails or that cracking of the paint occurs over time. This is because a thicker paint application results in higher degrees of expansion and contraction dissimilar to the rate of expansion and contraction of the plastic body unerneath. So I applied three thin coates of primer to allow for rubbing back with a 1200 grit sandpaper and then applied two coates of black. The first coat I applied as a dry coat form maximum binding and then when dried I applied the final as a wet coat for the best finish.

Hope I have been able to answer all of your questions :cheers:

 

[CasperGT]

This photo shows the finish matching the tri-bar plate sorround. I like the look of the outer frame being higher gloss as it looks more oem style.

 

[mlevans1]

This photo shows the finish matching the tri-bar plate sorround. I like the look of the outer frame being higher gloss as it looks more oem style.

That looks great man! Thanks for the info and the step by step!! Definitly post some pics when the job/install is all done!!

 

[CasperGT]

That looks great man! Thanks for the info and the step by step!! Definitly post some pics when the job/install is all done!!

Thanks! I sure will post the finished results. I am very pleased with the results and should look good on the car.

 

[KPSI]

Thanks for the post. Definitely going with the heat Gun method

 

[CasperGT]

Thanks for the post. Definitely going with the heat Gun method

Cheers [MENTION=13816]KPSI[/MENTION].

I split another set yesterday. One of the two lights was a real tuff one to get open. Finally got it and found lots more sealer than I had encountered before so it seems they can vary from one to the next. My friend took some phone video but might be a week or two before I can edit and get it up.

Definitely you will cause some damage to the black housing, mainly the channel and particularly the rounded corner at the tri-bar end but again with the set I did yesterday, I was able to restore the damage verry well using the clamps and door hinges like I showed in my write up.

You need to be patient, and be well aware it is not a walk in the park. It will fight you all the way and at times you will regret ever starting it. You also need fair core strength to pull the lens away from the rear assembly. It will surprise you just how hard you have to pull the lens away once you can get your fingers inside. But the reward is worth the effort in the end.

I do think it is possible to do serious non-reparable damage... So just keep that in mind and be sure you have a couple of days that your car can be off the road before attempting the split.

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